Anyways, I need to install new capacitors before I do anything. There is some annoying drift in settings depending on how long the PJ is on.
Turned the PJ on, of course convergence is not perfect, so ran a movie for warmup. At the end of warmup, convergence was almost good, but still needed 2-3 clicks of adjustment to get it back to perfect. I also switched over to 1920x1080P@60hz at that time, and to my pleasant surprise, it resolved 1-1 lines pretty nicely at that resolution. The 'lit' lines were slightly thicker than black ones, which is due to me not having touched astig, but I'd have to say it's pretty decently set.
It's not this blurry RL, just looks like that thanks to how the iPhone's camera took the pic. It was still slightly misconverged though.
After doing a touch-up, watched another film, and another... only to find that afterwards, though the convergence seemed to stay stable now, that resolving ability was lost, the black lines are not near as well visible.
Got the screen today. I have to say, were it not for the 'transparency' of the swimsuit fabric, the difference would be negligible between it and a 1.0 gain screen. Also, with the screen being so large, it has the exact problem I was expecting, the screen fabric itself is not perfectly stretched unless you actually pull all of it out and hold it out to maximum, so going to stretch it out on the frame I used with the swimsuit fabric whenever I get around to it. I ran the projector all evening today, and concluded that there are multiple reasons for drifting. I also have a slew of questions I'd appreciate some help with.
1, I only have the top toe-in screws tightened, ergo as the coolant chambers warm up, the tubes move slightly. I did not expect this as this was never a problem on non-LC projectors. This is probably the reason convergence never got back to perfect even the next-day after perfecting a setup. Will see once I get some bigger washers and tighten up the screws.
2, I actually checked lens-focus when firing up the set, and then later before turning off, and there was definitely a little drift in there too. How can I make sure the lenses don't move at all?
3, Electronic focus doesn't drift, but spot-size seems to be changing. The sharpest setting is still on the same number as when starting the set up, yet still the 1pix bars get definitely wider and less focused by the end. This is after checking the lenses, so I'm kind of at a loss as to what the reason for this could be. Anyone any ideas? We're talking screen center so no electronic astig that could be drifting here.
4, I have minor ringing on the left side, which I want to put out of the active image area. I suspect this might be the reason my rasters were originally shifted way to the side, to get the ringing off-screen. I still want to have the active image fill as much of the phosphor as possible. How safe is it to have the raster off the tube-face if active image is always staying on the phosphor proper, and the raster itself is barely lit up during viewing?
I suspect this may have been the intended setup straight from Barco actually, as all the IRIS test patterns are slightly shifted (which I don't think can be adjusted via any accessible setting) to the right!
5, "How black is black?" I didn't really notice any raster-glow on screen, but looking into the tubes, even a full black image had a visible raster on the tube faces. Actually lowering brightness to 37 or so completely gets rid of a visible raster on the tubeface. On the screen, I don't think the blacks go much lower, though they are really deep, but I'm definitely loosing shadow detail that way. How do you folks set this up?
You can see that the difference is not all that big between screen and swimsuit fabric! Actually the camera somewhat amplifies how much of a difference there is, honestly the major upside is that as it doesn't let light through, I can have a little more shadow-detail on the screen.
I tightened up both sides of the Toe-in screws, and indeed my drifting seems to have stopped, so I'm pretty much set aside from a fresh raster setup.
Does anyone know which 'block' a Barco uses for the initial warm-up white-pattern? I had to actually turn it off as with trying to shift ringing out of the active image area, the full-white pattern is now going off-tube face as it's on a different resolution.
Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 2, 2017 19:08:56 GMT -5
Should add you want to use cutoffs to get the greyscale from around 16-50 to be correct, you will defocus blue before you do this, use a ramp that shows red green blue cyan purple yellow and white, anything below 16 should be almost invisible.
Set gains to make sure top ends are perfect grey, set contrast at 75 and brightness at 40-45, then ramp up gains to get correct top end punch.
Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jul 2, 2017 19:13:44 GMT -5
There will be a bit of a section in the middle of the bars that can be adjusted using the midlights on the gamma menu for red and blue. There is also a blue slope and curve setting, have a play with those, see how ya go. If you make a mess of those you can reset them easily anyway.
Thanks Case, I will try the metal washers with the lenses, though I think I will be taking off the front element first, maybe try to remove them from the barrel completely to clean, as there seems to be some grime under there making some parts harder to rotate than they should be.
I need to get a decent colorimeter before I go dabbling with the greyscale though I'm sure. I'm also fairly certain I am going to have to keep messing with timings some more, as I can't seem to be able to get rid of the ringing completely with my current settings (right side starts to fold over if I phase-shift beyond a certain point).
The system-building is also still in progress, I snagged a Folsom Matrix 12x8 RGB switcher from ebay.de cheep, current project will be making cables for all my consoles to hook up everything through it It also just arrived today so having a bit of fun poking about with it.
Sorry to hear that Case, hope she gets better soon!
I've also been putting things on the back burner the past two months or so, lots of work, moving out of my old workshop, and am now in Germany for work till the end of next week. I'll keep things updated when I can get back to it. Probably going to slip into December before I can start doing the actual blend. I also found out the aluminum encased HD-18 is rare as white ravens, so going to need a pair of regulars for the meantim.
zjjxhzf: hello Gabor i am DLP projectorColor wheel is not accurate，setup memory， the phase angle cant setting for the color wheel ，must use service code.
Sept 19, 2017 1:31:25 GMT -5
mastertech: Hi stranger. Guess you spent your summer cruising on that street bike.
Sept 17, 2017 21:43:54 GMT -5
nashou: Hey everyone, just saying hi ! Hvent been here for a while hope you're all doing well !!
Sept 17, 2017 19:19:25 GMT -5
mastertech: Parts for repair are no longer available.
Sept 11, 2017 19:42:24 GMT -5
mayavi: my pioneer elite VSX-92TXH it freezes until I unplug and then it won't power on until maybe 10 minutes. came to know that its a common problem in this model. any help would be much appreciated......
Sept 11, 2017 13:39:10 GMT -5
jaredjaric: Thanks so much Hulio :), your expertise is very much respected
Aug 20, 2017 9:25:37 GMT -5
Admin: james: you need to post in the thread where your problem is being discussed.
Aug 9, 2017 19:51:54 GMT -5
james: Yes Sir All wiring was connected.
Aug 9, 2017 7:46:15 GMT -5
Admin: I have uploaded a copy of the SM to the digital projector section.
Jan 10, 2017 20:21:56 GMT -5
ducki: sorrry for my bad english ....(google translate
Jan 10, 2017 17:44:21 GMT -5
ducki: I have the same defect as a cp-x4021n you but can not start it ... I did the same trials with ic202 pc102 and still do not like, I make short pin 1 and 2 of the pc102 and PJ light (orange) goes off ... you can help me with a service manual for this PJ? TNX
Jan 10, 2017 17:43:46 GMT -5
jlb12: pwr switch off = 2(0.0) 3(11.7) 6(.04) 7(.04)
Dec 13, 2016 23:27:03 GMT -5
jlb12: No Problem. Thank you for all your help.
Dec 13, 2016 0:20:40 GMT -5