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Post by whiterabb1t on Mar 3, 2019 5:14:56 GMT -5
This is the problem now..
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 3, 2019 8:54:00 GMT -5
This is an odd issue, never heard of it before!! Ive got 2 units and only one remote, but all 3 remotes work on all machines, as in both internals, and the cordless remote will operate both my Cine 9 and my Reality 909 without an issue.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 3, 2019 8:56:57 GMT -5
What version is the firmware on this unit?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 3, 2019 9:02:56 GMT -5
Also, what other unusual extra boards are added into these sets?
I know my Reality 909 had a few extra boards in there that were not required, but not sure theyre likely to cause this.
The other thing to do is reset EVERYTHING to factory default, wipe out ALL settings, and ALL stored inputs, everything. That has fixed issues a couple times without stuffing around trying to figure out which is causing the fault and in your case because you havent done much work on these to have important stuff stored there, wiping the lot should be the first thing you do to make sure youre starting fresh.
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Post by whiterabb1t on Mar 4, 2019 15:08:18 GMT -5
Hi, i have foud the problem.... i have clean the remote controller board... but now i have other problem, horizzontal curved line Whit all pattern and all resolution, no smps, no horizontal board, no eht, no 3 port (already replaced)
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Post by robin36mac on Mar 5, 2019 9:33:27 GMT -5
Can you try to swap the Vertical board ? I would bet on this one. If not, you can try the controller too.
Robin
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 5, 2019 13:58:48 GMT -5
Nah wont be the vertical board, it is probably going to be the controller board. Try swapping that. If there is some sort of soft edge blending board installed on the controller, just remove it, you will only need it if youre blending 2 or more sets.
You still need to set ALL settings to midpoint and delete all inputs before you do much more.
You need to up the +17v line, it is too low. Id set it for +17.2-+17.3 with a full white screen at 1920x1080p 60hz. If your SMPS is in good shape, it wont rise much when the screen goes black, but it will always vary slightly.
Set Raster shift and all convergence to midpoint and adjust vertical height and size using the trimpots inside. Move the image to tube face center using raster shift, then align the outer sides by pointing the tubes, ignore the middle, leave that til later. Use the width coils to get red and blue the same width as green. When you do all that, use raster shift to line up the middle, and when you then fix the outer sides the image will again be dead center of the tube faces, provided you did it all correctly.
These Barco sets seem to be a bit funny with taking SOME adjustments to their extremes, and doing so can cause all sorts of strange interference in the image. Focus is a major one ive found, taking some zones to extremities causes issues in something you would expect to be totally unrelated. If you set the yoke up correctly, you wont need to frig about with astig and focus settings around their limits.
These sets seem to suffer a bit from capacitors that let them down for whatever reason, i replaced all mine in the whole set with Panasonic FC and FR, made a fair difference to stability of the set, most notable was the SMPS. When that was done, the 17v would barely move much between full white and full black.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 5, 2019 14:02:02 GMT -5
Id almost bet it will be the controller board causing the wavy lines, but you need to midpoint everything and also delete all entries first, could be something non-desirable in there and it can cause all sorts of issues, including shutting down the set, so dont waste any more time delaying this reset if you havent done so allready.
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Post by whiterabb1t on Mar 5, 2019 14:21:14 GMT -5
Can you try to swap the Vertical board ? I would bet on this one. If not, you can try the controller too. Robin I don’t have a vertical board... ok i try with the convergence
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Post by robin36mac on Mar 5, 2019 14:49:59 GMT -5
To add to what Casethecorvetteman said, I'd also test disconnecting the convergence coil (do that power off !), and check if the issue is still present. In that way, we will isolate if it an issue related to the convergence, or with the deflection.
For setting the 17V, I's advise to use a multimeter ; in my case the menu is off of 0.2 to 0.3V...
Robin
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Post by whiterabb1t on Mar 5, 2019 17:34:06 GMT -5
Nah wont be the vertical board, it is probably going to be the controller board. Try swapping that. If there is some sort of soft edge blending board installed on the controller, just remove it, you will only need it if youre blending 2 or more sets. You still need to set ALL settings to midpoint and delete all inputs before you do much more. You need to up the +17v line, it is too low. Id set it for +17.2-+17.3 with a full white screen at 1920x1080p 60hz. If your SMPS is in good shape, it wont rise much when the screen goes black, but it will always vary slightly. Set Raster shift and all convergence to midpoint and adjust vertical height and size using the trimpots inside. Move the image to tube face center using raster shift, then align the outer sides by pointing the tubes, ignore the middle, leave that til later. Use the width coils to get red and blue the same width as green. When you do all that, use raster shift to line up the middle, and when you then fix the outer sides the image will again be dead center of the tube faces, provided you did it all correctly. These Barco sets seem to be a bit funny with taking SOME adjustments to their extremes, and doing so can cause all sorts of strange interference in the image. Focus is a major one ive found, taking some zones to extremities causes issues in something you would expect to be totally unrelated. If you set the yoke up correctly, you wont need to frig about with astig and focus settings around their limits. These sets seem to suffer a bit from capacitors that let them down for whatever reason, i replaced all mine in the whole set with Panasonic FC and FR, made a fair difference to stability of the set, most notable was the SMPS. When that was done, the 17v would barely move much between full white and full black. Ok tks! Now i take a time, for see all passages and control all!
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Post by whiterabb1t on Mar 6, 2019 8:26:39 GMT -5
To add to what Casethecorvetteman said, I'd also test disconnecting the convergence coil (do that power off !), and check if the issue is still present. In that way, we will isolate if it an issue related to the convergence, or with the deflection. For setting the 17V, I's advise to use a multimeter ; in my case the menu is off of 0.2 to 0.3V... Robin Where can i find the 17v line, on the service manual? I’m not expert...
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Post by robin36mac on Mar 6, 2019 8:31:43 GMT -5
Yes, it is on the service manual, the part about the SMPS. Here is the location of the test point, and you can use the chassis as the ground. And adjust P1 for the required voltage.
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Post by whiterabb1t on Mar 6, 2019 8:41:46 GMT -5
To add to what Casethecorvetteman said, I'd also test disconnecting the convergence coil (do that power off !), and check if the issue is still present. In that way, we will isolate if it an issue related to the convergence, or with the deflection. For setting the 17V, I's advise to use a multimeter ; in my case the menu is off of 0.2 to 0.3V... Robin Ok i have disconnect only the green connector and the problem are solved, so, where il the problem? On the convergence board, but where? Bad component?
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Post by whiterabb1t on Mar 6, 2019 8:43:04 GMT -5
Yes, it is on the service manual, the part about the SMPS. Here is the location of the test point, and you can use the chassis as the ground. And adjust P1 for the required voltage. View AttachmentAaa with the trimmer? Ok i understand!
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