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Post by hulio on Aug 30, 2022 8:21:22 GMT -5
Hello Julian, Sorry, I just saw your reply... Thanks for your offer, but I already equipped my LUG's with coloured C-elements. I will edit my topic.
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Post by hulio on Jun 19, 2021 14:37:03 GMT -5
Alright, thanks. I already sent a mail to Tim.
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Post by hulio on May 30, 2021 10:16:13 GMT -5
Yes, mighty machines, 1,8m wide ? Are you sure Is not a typo faul ?
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Post by hulio on May 29, 2021 17:07:37 GMT -5
Yes, green and red. Actually, two greens and two reds would be even better. I have a BR909 split pack and a set of new P19LUG tubes waiting for the conversion.
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Post by hulio on May 29, 2021 3:58:19 GMT -5
Hello Michael, how are you ? Thanks fot the tip. Yeah, i know that Craig or Chris Johnson might have some. The problem is that here in Belgium, they tax you like hell for importing something. But if in Europe no one has, i will consider (depending on total price). Thanks.
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Post by hulio on May 21, 2021 6:45:04 GMT -5
Guys, someone in Europe willing to sale 9" coloured C-elements in decent state and for a fair price ? Thanks.
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Post by hulio on Nov 6, 2020 2:32:52 GMT -5
The two scenario's i know of, when no picture while leds on diagnostic board are green: - F150 fuse on G2 board - F1 fuse on EHT.
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Post by hulio on May 20, 2020 3:35:17 GMT -5
Bad luck Justin, one of my Cine 9's went to the UK one month ago. However, shipping a 140 Kg pallet crate to the Philippines would have been overkill, I guess (cost wise).
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Post by hulio on Jan 31, 2020 3:29:07 GMT -5
Also worth trying another convergence board. Some of them, with revision number lower than 3, had blue oscilation problems. There is a service bulletin here somewhere, it involves changing 8 resistors. Of course, the best way is to swap with another convergence board, to be sure it is the issue.
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Post by hulio on Oct 22, 2019 5:05:13 GMT -5
Hello Domenico, Yepp, on later revisions of the focus board, Barco changed that cap with a higher value but those were some mm longer. The newer versions of BR909's had the chassis modified too, but if one used the upgraded focus board on a not modified frame.....ouchhh.... I had to cut the frame on one of my Cine Max machine in the past too. The issue was discussed few years ago on this forum, if i'm not wrong, started by Casey.
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Post by hulio on Apr 14, 2019 3:17:57 GMT -5
Nice work, Robin. I guess, if safety resistor SR1 would be bad, you won't get any picture out of the red tube. How about D108 and C106 ? Test them too. Also, to exclude the 190V regulation as the culprit, swap the output driver only (R7630275S).
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Post by hulio on Mar 24, 2019 8:35:44 GMT -5
Ok, I missed that. Very strange indeed, noise while in standby from SMPS or PFC is common, but from one of the front boards..... You'll find the noisy board only swapping one by one, I suppose.
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Post by hulio on Mar 24, 2019 8:23:22 GMT -5
Domenico, are you sure is not one of the front fans that is generating the noise ? Try to block the fans for a few seconds (or disconnect them from the focus board). It should take some 15 seconds before automatic shutdown, time enough to hear the difference.
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Post by hulio on Mar 24, 2019 6:27:33 GMT -5
Hi Casey,
I'm afraid there is no right answer to this question. It should be defocus to whatever value gives the right grayscale tracking on midrange (30-70 IRE). Because is dependent on so many things, like ambient light, screen size, resolution used, tube condition etc. there is no way someone could say " well, a blue defocus at this value gives the best results ". I remember folks having the blue defocused at 0 and others letting it at 57 in order to obtain a linear grayscale. We need to defocus in order to get more light output (the sharper the focus, the darker the image) and luckily, the human eye is pretty unable to focus on blue. So don't worry if the blue test pattern looks terrible out of focus, during film watching you won't notice a damn thing. From my experience, if there is no possibility to do a grayscale calibration with a proper spectrometer and the blue tube is pretty fresh, the defocus value should be somewhere between 35-45. Mine is at 40 and is not professional calibrated. Give it a try and compare each time with, for example, watching at Ice Age on a scene with a lot of snow. If the snow goes slightly to the reddish side, you need more blue defocus. Right, don't forget to touch the optical blue focus as well if you change the electronic focus.
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Post by hulio on Mar 19, 2019 11:45:23 GMT -5
Here all the components with their values of controller and convergence boards: pg002476.htm (87.55 KB) pg002495.htm (172.15 KB)
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