Post by thespianator on May 12, 2017 11:12:59 GMT -5
I've watched a number of YouTube videos on how to build one of these. Pretty simple. I'd like to build one, but with a Pure Sine Wave Inverter (rather than the modified sine wave) so that I can use it for electronics should (or when) the SHTF. or there is a power outage. The inverter seems like the heart and soul of a Solar Generator (of course, so does the solar panel and the battery.)
There are tons of inverters out there, and I'm watching this 5000 watt version on ebay:
Thing is, how do I discern whether or not it's a good one? What are the key points to consider? What parts / properties should it have for longevity?
I'm figuring that with an oversized inverter like this one, I could have an upgrade path and add a second 100 watt Renogy solar panel (should I use monocrystaline rather than poly) and a second AGM battery as may be necessary. I also see that the two panels could be run in series or parallel. Which is better?
Opinions and options are welcome, thanks in advance to all.
Post by thespianator on Mar 16, 2017 23:07:42 GMT -5
I've been driving a very faithful 2004 Toyota Highlander since new. Lately there's been some weird stuff going on with the drivers side automatic door lock, the window and the main locking switch.
Actually I've had an ongoing issue with the driver door lock - the key fob rarely works to operate the drivers lock (but occasionally does). (All three other door locks function fine at all times) Usually the lock button moves partially but not enough to close and lock the door. Recently the window intermittently doesn't open/close fully without holding the switch down. Sometimes it's a little chattery.
Sometimes when I get in I hear the doors try to lock (but they never fully lock), and I haven't even pressed any buttons at all, either on the fob or the door. Sounds like it's possessed, doesn't it? Hopefully it's just a dirty relay somewhere. But where that relay is or if there even is one is a mystery to me.
Regarding the driver lock, I've done some research and there is a small electrical plunger motor that is available on eBay (depending on length of plunger) for around $10-12. If bought from Toyota one can only get the entire assembly for around $250 plus the labor to take the door apart and install is about another $250-300. Naturally I'd be doing this myself, if I can be sure that's what's wrong. Taking the door apart from the inside is a chore, to be sure. There are, fortunately, a few videos online about how to do this.
I've read that if the plunger is bad then one would hear it strain. I don't hear a thing, even when the door lock button only moves partially. Now with these other recent symptoms I'm wondering if there is a relay somewhere that's dirty or corroded.
Has anyone had similar issues with this? I've both changed the coin battery in the key fob and also tried the second key fob (car came with two) with a new battery. No success.
Post by thespianator on Jan 16, 2017 18:40:54 GMT -5
Hi, I've gotten a few high end remotes, and the person I bought them from doesn't respond to my requests for help. They are an MX980 and an MX3000. The URC website won't allow me in to download editing software or whatever I would need to update these to control my own equipment.
Can anyone here assist in either logging in or somewhere else I could obtain the software needed to make these remotes work?
Post by thespianator on Nov 29, 2016 16:25:25 GMT -5
Not wanting to threadcrap here, but I have an EAD Theater Master Classic, and even though it has some issues, when it was working it was an excellent digital preamp that I only used in 2 channel, and I would say that it was a better preamp than the ones that followed, including the Sony TA-ES9000E (but the Sony was close and has a phono section). Even better than the B&K Reference 50.
That said, I appreciate the HDMI of the Marantz SR5004 receiver (bedroom set) and my Emotiva UMC-1 Pre/Pro (The Emo is buggy and I wouldn't recommend it). I would recommend the B&K AVR507 if you're interested in a one box setup that is non-HDMI. One of the best sounding receivers I have ever had the pleasure of owning, and it's definitely on my "regret I sold it" list.
I never heard a Lexicon MC12, just the DC 1 &2. Once I heard that Lexicon simply re-boxed an Oppo BDP-83 into the Lexicon BD30 and sold it for ~$3000 more than the Oppo retailed for, I have lost all respect for the company management, though sonically would still consider their used products.
Post by thespianator on Nov 27, 2016 22:32:28 GMT -5
Hi Nashou, thanks for your assistance. The meter was designed and marketed to test in circuit. That's why I bought it to begin with, but alas, I still need to know something about electronics! I've completely recapped a couple of old amps / receivers, and it was a fun project. Eventually I wanted to know how much of what I was replacing actually was bad. I was surprised to find out that there weren't as many out-of-spec caps as one would have suspected given that the receiver was 30+ years old. I still shotgunned the whole thing.
I'll check for schematics for the Line 6 and see what's parallel to it. (Actually it was 1056 uF).
FWIW, there are a few other caps that are testing around 3-4 ohms ESR. Does that mean they should be replaced?
The symptom was that the guitar amp would emit one loud pop shortly after being turned on. Some of the lights in front that had just turned on would go out. I took the sellers word that it didn't work, but maybe I should have verified that and noted which lights went off. I was guessing that there was a bad cap that was charging but then would not hold.
These amps are not great quality, but they are modeling amps which are fun to play through. The caps are all, except for one I'm not sure about, LH Nova from www.fenghua-advanced.com. Chinese caps are notorious for short lives, so I am told. So that was where I started looking. Nothing vented, bulged, or with shrunken wrap.
Post by thespianator on Nov 26, 2016 22:33:17 GMT -5
Some time back I got myself a Peak ESR meter with the hope that I could not only locate bad caps IN CIRCUIT, but also see if new caps that I used for replacement were in spec, and check on the sum of film caps I paralleled together for use in crossovers. I know they are usually 20% tolerance, but I like to know the part I'm installing is good.
So when I dragged home a Line 6 Spider II guitar amp (that I got for next to nothing at a garage sale) that would go pop after about 5-6 seconds after turn-on, I decided to look for bad caps, as Chinese caps are typically suspect and I was working on the hypothesis that a bad cap was causing the problem.
With no power applied, I came across a 100uF 10V cap that read 1066uf in circuit, so I thought it was bad. I pulled it, and it read 99uF out of circuit. Scratched my head, then reinstalled it and it read nearly the same 1066uF.
What does this mean? Is there an issue in the circuit that the cap is in? Some caps read open/leaky, and I'm guessing that's due to the circuit it's in. But seeing a reading that's 10 times the rating is confusing.
Post by thespianator on Nov 11, 2016 17:55:44 GMT -5
Thanks Barclay 66!
I checked D14 (1N4003) and Q13 (2N5415) in circuit, didn't appear to be blown. The 2N5415 appears to be NLA. Just for grins, I checked the bias and it was approximately 115 volts. Turning the pot had no effect. Does that help at all to narrow this down?
Post by thespianator on Nov 9, 2016 16:10:41 GMT -5
Greetings! I picked up a free Hafler DH-200 that was built from a kit. The giver told me it had fried one of his speakers, so before testing I checked the DC offset and found that it was 20mV on one channel and -55 Volts on the other!
I thought this meant there was a fried MOSFET output transistor (Unobtainium), but I pulled each of the 4 outputs and tested for a short between the pins. No short, so I figure they must be OK. I'm in the process of getting some reasonably closely matched 2N5550 and 2N5401, but need to be sure that these don't blow out if the -55V is caused by something else. I've tested the electrolytic caps in circuit with my ESR meter, and nothing comes out as out of spec. I put the correct rating slo-blo fuses in both channel mains and when turning it on, they don't blow out. I'm presuming this means that the outputs are not shorted. There's a small daughter board that hangs next to the PC-6 amp board, btw, and the caps read OK. Is there a particular pre-driver that is blown?
I plan to re-cap this once I get the DC-offset figured out. There's no pot for DC-offset on this one as there is on the DH-220. One would just set the bias and the DC offset "should" be in range.
I'm at a little loss on where to proceed from here, and these are good little amps. Could anyone provide a little guidance? My pile of gear that I am stuck somewhere on fixing is large enough! and I would like to get this one working.
The mouser relay would be correct for the service bulletin replacement. However the service bulletin does not apply to the 9300. The lot number question would refer to the actual lot number in the serial number which for the 9200 would be lot 04. That means not all 9200's were affected, only those built under lot 04. But I agree it would be wise to check the relays in the 9300 but in your thoughts on buying it I would assume it is something else and not the relays.
Thanks for your comment. I probably have enough projects and boat anchors around here.
Post by thespianator on Oct 12, 2016 19:29:18 GMT -5
Potential Project: Marantz 9300 powers up, no sound.
I found this on CL, might consider picking it up as it has pre-outs for a 7 channel amp at 105 wpc. which I could use. It's a 2002 vintage with no HDMI, so the pre/pro in it doesn't actually interest me. It comes with the remote.
Thing is, it powers up, no sound.
I found a service bulletin when I was getting the service manual. It says the incorrect main relay was used, should be the 24volt instead of the 12 volt. The correct one is the Omron LY20240490 or G5PA-28. Digikey doesn't have it if I searched correctly. Mouser appears to have it:
But I'm not sure it is the right one. I don't understand the reference to Lot Number on the Service Bulletin. I've attached the .pdf of the service bulletin so perhaps someone could help verify this.
I don't expect Marantz to blatantly say they all do this, but it seems to me that reading between the lines, this could well be the issue. The part where Marantz says: "There is problem in normal useage" seems a little fishy. Don't have the unit to examine to know if this was already replaced in a later run and the issue is something else.
I'm guessing that replacing an inexpensive part is all that is needed, but the seller is looking for $115 for a nearly 15 year old dead unit because it was $3K new in the beginning of the HT era. I think it should go for like $25-50 considering it's age and it's dead.
Could someone please let me know if I have correctly matched the right part from the service bulletin?
Also - this is a risk. If the seller would come down about 50% I am considering taking the plunge. The part would be around $4 plus shipping. The 9300 has the remote, so that could be eBayed to defer costs if this ends up a pig in a poke.
Opinions on this would be welcome. Would you pull the trigger on this?
Thanks for reading and being my "Guardian Tree" on this. (FYI, it's a tree that commands respect and honor and holds the energy for protection and safety).
Post by thespianator on Sept 22, 2016 14:19:02 GMT -5
Thanks! I guess I should have looked for that. Would you recommend that I test both the AC generated voltage and then the voltage as supplied by the solar panel? Also, if I just put leads on those two points you mentioned and run them to a power socket, could I then use this charger either as solar or as AC (provided I put a protective insulating sleeve on the connector)?
Admin: I have uploaded a copy of the SM to the digital projector section.
Jan 10, 2017 20:21:56 GMT -5
ducki: sorrry for my bad english ....(google translate
Jan 10, 2017 17:44:21 GMT -5
ducki: I have the same defect as a cp-x4021n you but can not start it ... I did the same trials with ic202 pc102 and still do not like, I make short pin 1 and 2 of the pc102 and PJ light (orange) goes off ... you can help me with a service manual for this PJ? TNX
Jan 10, 2017 17:43:46 GMT -5
jlb12: pwr switch off = 2(0.0) 3(11.7) 6(.04) 7(.04)
Dec 13, 2016 23:27:03 GMT -5
jlb12: No Problem. Thank you for all your help.
Dec 13, 2016 0:20:40 GMT -5
thespianator: Hi! Could use some help with a Hafler DH-200! Very High DC Offset.
Nov 9, 2016 16:50:22 GMT -5
thespianator: Hello again! Could use some opinions on a potential purchase.
Oct 12, 2016 19:29:10 GMT -5
Admin: All links in the CRT service manual section should be working again. There may be some other links in individual posts in the forum that may not work and can be repaired if needed. Just ask.
Oct 2, 2016 18:26:14 GMT -5
Admin: All Barco links should be functioning now. More to follow.
Oct 2, 2016 17:25:04 GMT -5
Admin: All of the 909 links should be working again. Others to follow. Let me know if there are any problems.
Oct 2, 2016 13:30:27 GMT -5
tschaeikaei: i have a gtx480 which has 2 dvi-i (digital+ analog) and i want to know if i can use 400mhz on every port or (using both with the same frequency) 200mhz per port.
Oct 1, 2016 9:15:14 GMT -5
tschaeikaei: Hey guys, does anyone know if nvidia interates one or two ram dac units into their graphics cards.
Oct 1, 2016 9:14:11 GMT -5
Admin: This was already addressed and there is a thread on it in the service manual section. If a link is not currently working all you have to do is ask. Data is all still there. One drive changed the linking process.
Sept 25, 2016 9:17:09 GMT -5
km987654: Guys do any of these one drive links work? I am not sure what the point of this section is if its a bunch of broken links because the data doesn't exist.
Sept 25, 2016 1:47:49 GMT -5