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Post by crtbilly on Feb 5, 2019 11:03:20 GMT -5
Thanks Joffe for the zener readings. Could you look on your sub pwb assy board and tell me what led's you have light. Well I tried what master suggested and supply 3.3 volts to pin 4 and nothing. I tried to capture communication on rx and tx but wasn't able to read it. I used settings from wongs blog but still could see data properly. Will keep trying. The picture I attached show mine as it's attempting to light the lamp. Green Green Not lit Red On my scaller board I have led1400 red and led800 green.
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Post by crtbilly on Jan 8, 2019 23:29:42 GMT -5
I like your style..... just get er done! I will check the UART commands and see if its even getting the "lamp on" or anything else. I will keep everyone posted.
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Post by crtbilly on Jan 8, 2019 21:02:51 GMT -5
Yeah, I saw this. Need to hook up my logic analyzer and see what I can capture.
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Post by crtbilly on Jan 8, 2019 20:17:49 GMT -5
Damn.....I'm know for my bad timing I'd be interested in seeing the vid if you get around to uploading it. Yeah I'm working on a photo to show the findings better. I tried to mark pin 1 with the . And ° symbols and the orientation is as the appear on the board. Oh and Happy New Year everyone!
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Post by crtbilly on Jan 8, 2019 12:58:03 GMT -5
Ok, got back to this thing. I'd like to get it off my bench but know if I do it will sit on the shelf collecting dust and never be put back together. So I thought that I'd try testing the optocouplers. This is in standby 0v 72v \ / [ 2581A.] / \ 0v. 70v 0v 70v \ / [°2581A] / \ 0v 70v 0v 70v \ / [°2581A] / \ 0v 70v ----ON---- 0v 29v \ / [ 2581A.] / \ 5.1v 55v 5.1v 55v \ / [°2581A] / \ 5.1v 55v 5.1v 55v \ / [°2581A] / \ 3.8v 55v I read another article saying replacement worked also suggested PC123 as possible replacement but wasn't used in the fix. Let me know if anyone has similar readings. Thxs
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Post by crtbilly on Nov 11, 2018 19:06:54 GMT -5
Well.... Replaced ic1 but no diffrence. I have some replacements for Q1 and Q2 coming wish I could identify the ZD'S.
What a pain in the ass this thing is to work on.
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Post by crtbilly on Nov 8, 2018 14:06:16 GMT -5
Lol, agreed. Not sure I'd feel comfortable having that in my projector.
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Post by crtbilly on Nov 8, 2018 13:08:25 GMT -5
IC1 is a less than 2$ component, so might be worth a shot, none of the components that looks to have been hot measures open or shorted, so if others report IC1 as a common faliur, why not. I think I got the code incorrect in my previous posting. I referred to Q1 as S7 but it is SV witch I haven't found anything on. And IC1 is LNK363DN not G I have gone ahead and ordered a replacement for IC1. I still don't like the condition of the other burnt components. I emailed the guy in China who had the ebay listing for the IC1 to see if he can supply the other components since I am unable to find them. will see if he can supply it. Wish I could find a schematic. I also saw a Chinese replacement for this ballast. It was only $45 lol. Sounds interesting. www.rushsupply.top/compatible-projector-lamp-ballast-for-jvc-dlax70-dlax9-dlax90-rpb0526ga-p-5141.html
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Post by crtbilly on Nov 8, 2018 8:46:04 GMT -5
Ok So This is what I have for parts so far based off of what I could find from the codes pulled from the components. I wasn't able to read anything from the "ZD" components. Will try and test them later to see what I can see. Q3 "WB" 2SD1383K Q1 Q2 "SV" SST177 IC1 LNK363DG z1 ? z2 ? z3 ? postimg.cc/QBV7XG3f
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Post by crtbilly on Nov 8, 2018 8:30:54 GMT -5
My board looks simular. From mine I think I can read Q2 as "SV" according to a identification code book it appears they are JFET "SST177" . Problem is it's discontinued from what I can see. Tried looking for replacement last night. IC1 is LNK363DG, might just pick one up. I have a few diodes I need to decode. Part list continues
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Post by crtbilly on Nov 7, 2018 18:21:39 GMT -5
Sounds good. I have read that replacing IC1 has fixed the problem. I also saw a repair kit on eBay for the ic's so there might be something to that. I did notice my Q1 and Q2 look a little toasty. Will spend more time once kids are in bed. postimg.cc/nCJJbLLF
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Post by crtbilly on Nov 7, 2018 13:05:16 GMT -5
No worries, I'll update this thread with my progress. Thanks for getting back.
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Post by crtbilly on Nov 7, 2018 12:52:52 GMT -5
Any update on your progress? I am trying to troubleshoot a ballast from a rs45. I think they are similar. My ballast is a rubycon RPB-0526GA. It looks like a few diodes got a little crispy on the back of the board. Will try and take some photos.
Would really like to get it working.Info is scarce. Like to compare it to my g90.
Thanks!
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Post by crtbilly on Apr 16, 2016 14:14:05 GMT -5
Thanks Howie. I will see if I can get some more pics of the water system. I think there is a vent system but could be wrong.
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Post by crtbilly on Apr 10, 2016 14:07:14 GMT -5
Hey Howie! Thanks for getting back with me. I made it through the winter and the thing did pretty good. I need to get better with bleeding my system. Air really does make some unwanted noise but it wasn't to bad. The main concerns I had was the tridicator gauge. I know the thing is toast but wasn't sure what size stem was needed or if it even mattered. I know I could pull it and find out but the system is still in use and don't want to drain and refill again. Also It appears that the pipe connected to the circulator pump is really rusted. I think the pump was the reason for this because it appears to be new. We have well water that is a little on the acidic side so it wouldn't take much to cause this but would like your opinion on if it should be changed out. Also the exhaust is strait into a chimney flu. I was winder if I can install a damper on the pipe and also fill in around the pipe were it enters into the wall with some chimney cement. I have attached some photos so you can get a better look at what I am talking about. Let me know if you need more info. Thanks for your help. Smith Series 8 Boiler tridicator gauge Circulator Pump Pipe Below the Taco Pump Tigerloop Exhaust entering chimney flu
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