Wouldn't it be easier to move the quad and HV board over?
Though actually you can get away with just popping the ROMs over on the processor board. Check if your RGB input boards are newer version (surface mount components) or older. Use the newer one if you can they're slightly better.
I understand if banding is not an issue on these specific sets, they would definitely be a step up (except for brightness which I understand is pretty weak on these tubes), but I also gather they're nowhere near Barco 909 or G90 as far as their worth goes. I'll just keep my eyes out for G90 sets.
Thanks for the info, but it's nowhere near that cheap. Asking price is 1500EUR for the pair, 4xx hours on both sets. Could probably haggle some, but based on what I gather, even 1000 EUR would be much. Oh well. I'll just have to keep an eye out and keep on chugging with the 8" Barcos
Thanks gjaky, I think that convinced me not to bother Proprietary tubes just killed the deal, not to mention I've read there's a lot of streaking issues with this projector. Shame too cause they are low hour, great condition sets. :\
Has anyone tried both these sets? Is the 1292 as stable and sharp as the G90? I have a chance to possibly buy a pair of 1292 sets, but am unsure if they're actually inferior to G90s? From what I understand the 1292 doesn't have a slot for a moome card to be direct installed, and has a slightly narrower bandwidth, but what about focusability and convergence setup ? Would they offer a visible improvement compared to the Cine8 Onyx? I am guessing I might get some improvement in vertical resolving ability? What would be a realistic price nowdays for a 1292 that has under 1000 hours on it?
Look on eBay, there are excellent quality SCART cables available for almost every console for very reasonable prices.
Even i dont make my own for consoles, only SCART - SCART leads for transfer between SCART switchers. I make those to avoid noise that you get with most SCART -SCART cables. I use big thick RGB cables with good shielding for that and good quality plugs.
The quality SCART cables for consoles on ebay that come from UK are awesome.
I make my own cables because I'm cutting out the middle-man, I direct-feed RGBHV switchers from my dvd recorder and consoles, because virtually all scart switchers are either too small (not met one with more than 5 ports and that was pretty crap quality) and/or noisy. I'm actually about to start building an overgrown chest of drawers for my consoles with a 16 channel RGBHV switcher rack in the middle.
Thanks Case, I will try the metal washers with the lenses, though I think I will be taking off the front element first, maybe try to remove them from the barrel completely to clean, as there seems to be some grime under there making some parts harder to rotate than they should be.
I need to get a decent colorimeter before I go dabbling with the greyscale though I'm sure. I'm also fairly certain I am going to have to keep messing with timings some more, as I can't seem to be able to get rid of the ringing completely with my current settings (right side starts to fold over if I phase-shift beyond a certain point).
The system-building is also still in progress, I snagged a Folsom Matrix 12x8 RGB switcher from ebay.de cheep, current project will be making cables for all my consoles to hook up everything through it It also just arrived today so having a bit of fun poking about with it.
You can see that the difference is not all that big between screen and swimsuit fabric! Actually the camera somewhat amplifies how much of a difference there is, honestly the major upside is that as it doesn't let light through, I can have a little more shadow-detail on the screen.
I tightened up both sides of the Toe-in screws, and indeed my drifting seems to have stopped, so I'm pretty much set aside from a fresh raster setup.
Does anyone know which 'block' a Barco uses for the initial warm-up white-pattern? I had to actually turn it off as with trying to shift ringing out of the active image area, the full-white pattern is now going off-tube face as it's on a different resolution.
Got the screen today. I have to say, were it not for the 'transparency' of the swimsuit fabric, the difference would be negligible between it and a 1.0 gain screen. Also, with the screen being so large, it has the exact problem I was expecting, the screen fabric itself is not perfectly stretched unless you actually pull all of it out and hold it out to maximum, so going to stretch it out on the frame I used with the swimsuit fabric whenever I get around to it. I ran the projector all evening today, and concluded that there are multiple reasons for drifting. I also have a slew of questions I'd appreciate some help with.
1, I only have the top toe-in screws tightened, ergo as the coolant chambers warm up, the tubes move slightly. I did not expect this as this was never a problem on non-LC projectors. This is probably the reason convergence never got back to perfect even the next-day after perfecting a setup. Will see once I get some bigger washers and tighten up the screws.
2, I actually checked lens-focus when firing up the set, and then later before turning off, and there was definitely a little drift in there too. How can I make sure the lenses don't move at all?
3, Electronic focus doesn't drift, but spot-size seems to be changing. The sharpest setting is still on the same number as when starting the set up, yet still the 1pix bars get definitely wider and less focused by the end. This is after checking the lenses, so I'm kind of at a loss as to what the reason for this could be. Anyone any ideas? We're talking screen center so no electronic astig that could be drifting here.
4, I have minor ringing on the left side, which I want to put out of the active image area. I suspect this might be the reason my rasters were originally shifted way to the side, to get the ringing off-screen. I still want to have the active image fill as much of the phosphor as possible. How safe is it to have the raster off the tube-face if active image is always staying on the phosphor proper, and the raster itself is barely lit up during viewing?
I suspect this may have been the intended setup straight from Barco actually, as all the IRIS test patterns are slightly shifted (which I don't think can be adjusted via any accessible setting) to the right!
5, "How black is black?" I didn't really notice any raster-glow on screen, but looking into the tubes, even a full black image had a visible raster on the tube faces. Actually lowering brightness to 37 or so completely gets rid of a visible raster on the tubeface. On the screen, I don't think the blacks go much lower, though they are really deep, but I'm definitely loosing shadow detail that way. How do you folks set this up?
What about visually ? I doubt it, but is there any difference in the picture? Thing is, I don't think I want to spend $200+ on the board... I'd like to have one but that's out of my price-range for a single pcb.
RWI I think was 6.3. Latest version I believe. Oddly enough on the 808s using this version turns the old style remote completely useless, so I only have that in my Onyx.
The ctrl needs a 1 mbyte eprom, originally 27c801. Same size as the last version 808 you uploaded (hence I will also need to get at least one of those eproms though I might have a few out in my workshop, will see).
Thanks for the info.
The 7.61 firmware turns the BG808s into a BG808s2 whatever that is. I have never seen the RWI 6.3 my latest is 5.10.
Okay I had the version wrong, but here it is. It's 6.01. Keep in mind, this did not work or did not work optimally with old remotes. I am not sure if it didn't work at all or if it only worked with the rear reciever.
Can anyone shed some light on what if any significance the presence of a PFC board will have in a Cine8? I would love to get both my PJs exactly the same, but the price I got from Curt for a spare board is pretty steep, plus that board just adds an extra fan that is actually audibly whiney. Or maybe if someone has one they'd be willing to part with at an affordable price I'd be game for it.
Anyways, I need to install new capacitors before I do anything. There is some annoying drift in settings depending on how long the PJ is on.
Turned the PJ on, of course convergence is not perfect, so ran a movie for warmup. At the end of warmup, convergence was almost good, but still needed 2-3 clicks of adjustment to get it back to perfect. I also switched over to 1920x1080P@60hz at that time, and to my pleasant surprise, it resolved 1-1 lines pretty nicely at that resolution. The 'lit' lines were slightly thicker than black ones, which is due to me not having touched astig, but I'd have to say it's pretty decently set.
It's not this blurry RL, just looks like that thanks to how the iPhone's camera took the pic. It was still slightly misconverged though.
After doing a touch-up, watched another film, and another... only to find that afterwards, though the convergence seemed to stay stable now, that resolving ability was lost, the black lines are not near as well visible.
Casey is the Gun when it comes to Barco ASTIG. He has spent more time learning about these than most have spent watching movies. I think from memory he put together a procedure and posted it on here. I would say that the same procedure he uses for the Cine 9 would work well with the Cine 8. You can spend a full day on one tube alone to get the best corner to corner focus.
Thanks for your kind words my friend
Barcos really need their astig set well to get the best from everything, and it takes time with a lot of back and forward between settings to find the perfect spot.
The main thing is dont aim for round dots anywhere other than the middle, aim for best sharpness in both horizontal and vertical. As you go over and under focus, dots further towards the edges will change shape and flair.
I can't seem to find such a guide on here. Case do you actually have a guide on the astig setup written? Also, if you don't mind my asking, why set the best center focus at around the 60 mark? Why not 50?
Admin: james: you need to post in the thread where your problem is being discussed.
Aug 9, 2017 19:51:54 GMT -5
james: Yes Sir All wiring was connected.
Aug 9, 2017 7:46:15 GMT -5
Admin: I have uploaded a copy of the SM to the digital projector section.
Jan 10, 2017 20:21:56 GMT -5
ducki: sorrry for my bad english ....(google translate
Jan 10, 2017 17:44:21 GMT -5
ducki: I have the same defect as a cp-x4021n you but can not start it ... I did the same trials with ic202 pc102 and still do not like, I make short pin 1 and 2 of the pc102 and PJ light (orange) goes off ... you can help me with a service manual for this PJ? TNX
Jan 10, 2017 17:43:46 GMT -5
jlb12: pwr switch off = 2(0.0) 3(11.7) 6(.04) 7(.04)
Dec 13, 2016 23:27:03 GMT -5
jlb12: No Problem. Thank you for all your help.
Dec 13, 2016 0:20:40 GMT -5
thespianator: Hi! Could use some help with a Hafler DH-200! Very High DC Offset.
Nov 9, 2016 16:50:22 GMT -5
thespianator: Hello again! Could use some opinions on a potential purchase.
Oct 12, 2016 19:29:10 GMT -5
Admin: All links in the CRT service manual section should be working again. There may be some other links in individual posts in the forum that may not work and can be repaired if needed. Just ask.
Oct 2, 2016 18:26:14 GMT -5
Admin: All Barco links should be functioning now. More to follow.
Oct 2, 2016 17:25:04 GMT -5
Admin: All of the 909 links should be working again. Others to follow. Let me know if there are any problems.
Oct 2, 2016 13:30:27 GMT -5
tschaeikaei: i have a gtx480 which has 2 dvi-i (digital+ analog) and i want to know if i can use 400mhz on every port or (using both with the same frequency) 200mhz per port.
Oct 1, 2016 9:15:14 GMT -5