I found the location of the fault, but not the actual fault... I guess there may have been some oxidization on the outer side of one of the BNC input sockets. Just moving the plug in it slightly fixed the problem immediately.
I will get to it once I have finalized the placement of the projector. Is there a better method to getting the PJ square to the screen than 'string measuring' corner to projector corner? Because according to that my PJ is square to the screen, but I am not convinced it really is...
I also buckled down and bought an actual 1.0 gain screen as I finally found one in the right size cheap enough that I don't want to bother trying homebrew things. It's a 3m wide 4:3 rolldown matte white screen that only cost about 130 EUR including shipping. Depending on whether I get curlup on the sides, I'll probably take it out of the rollup mech, crimp some nice metal rings through the sides, then stretch it into the frame I have currently.
And the award goes to.... *drumroll* gjaky! Swapping red and green inputs, the problem stays with the cable. What could cause this though? Broken shielding of the cable? Bad plug? Its strange because I literally did not move any cabling, it was suddenly just like this.
So I've been playing a bit more with the Onyx today. Convergence drift is definitely an issue, however I have a new problem now, and this is on the green tube only. At first I thought it might be a warmup thing I just didn't notice as after about an hour it was gone, but it came back a little later again. Technically what happens is every hard vertical line gets a 'mirror double' a tiny bit to the right of it (right on the screen, so that's left on tubeface I think?), which makes it look like my convergence is way out of whack too, but it is only this phenomenon on the green tube giving that illusion. Photos:
These are the same section of the screen on the three different tubes (don't mind the lack of focus, you can see the problem on the green clearly):
Here it is with an actual icon on the desktop: Ignore the diagonal stuff, that is just the iPhone's camera artifact. I also have what I believe is called ringing on the left side of the screen, though it was pretty mild, yet on the green tube it seems to have doubled at this point. If I only have the red tube on, I can't really see any ringing, and if I turn only the green tube off, picture is near perfect. On the blue tube, ringing is strange, as it only appears in the form of a single vertical line that is a little brighter than the rest of the image?
I hope replacing the old caps will fix this (?). Is there a source for those weird capacitors that have one center leg and three outer legs in a circle? Or will I have to jam in regular two legged caps? The thing is, this phenomenon appeared for the first time today, it went completel invisible at one point, then came back even worse than this. I just turned the set back on real quick to snap a few pics for you guys.
I actually had this problem on a CRT monitor a while ago, although there there were multiple copies of vertical lines, each a little fainter than the rest, and I never could find out what it was. It also came and went when it pleased. So if anyone has some pointers, I'd really appreciate it.
RWI I think was 6.3. Latest version I believe. Oddly enough on the 808s using this version turns the old style remote completely useless, so I only have that in my Onyx.
The ctrl needs a 1 mbyte eprom, originally 27c801. Same size as the last version 808 you uploaded (hence I will also need to get at least one of those eproms though I might have a few out in my workshop, will see).
Blend area fading can be done with modulating the projector's internal contrast setting, both the marquee and the barco support this feature, so only a ramp generator and an adjustable delay what is needed.
I would try the actual Semu board, but I'm not sure how good that is, and given how hard they're to come by, if it's worth chasing them at all...
Do you use digital inputs on your projectors and what projectors do you use? As far as I've tried it, the hacked GTX480 does a good job on mosaic, but only with the two TFT displays that i've tried. I did not see any option on edge blending on mosaic, just the overlap function. No settings for the brightness/ contrast fade that's needed for the seamless blend. If you could burn me one or two eeproms, that would be great. In my case, i think i can be happy with the gaming performance a GTX480 has to offer. But, if there is need for a change afterwards, it is sure possible to copy the mosaic and IDP/ICP setups and use it on another card. Maybe minor adjustments are needed, but i think there should be no great problems.
Do you need anything specific, or should any edid info work for you? I should have a few eeproms left that I originalyl bought for this purpose.
It may be that the card is too old, from what I recall it's the K1200 Quadro where the drivers start supporting the actual edge-blending.
My video chain is complicated. I am using two Cine8 Onyx projectors (one real, one converted from a BG808s). For digital sources, I am going through a HDFury (going to change it when I find something better at an affordable price), which is then fed into a Kramer 8x8 RGBHV matrix switcher, looped into TV One blend-capable scalers, then out to the projectors through the switcher again.
I have been considering getting some of the moome cards for barco, but then I would need a digital scaler that can do edge blending, or SEMU boards. I actually would like to try the SEMU boards, but they're not so easy to find. In fact nothing is that easy to find for CRT at this point
You need to move the focus yoke to get best centre focus, set to 57-60 and then move the yoke til it is perfect. If centre is down on 37, you will probably never get sides perfect without extreme numbers.
Why around that range? Why not go for 50 straight on and minimize the intervention needed by the electronics?
I like it a lot, and if you have a perfect mechanical/camera setup, it actually does a pretty damn good job. If for some reason the process fails to finish though, in earlier versions it will just dump you back to the menu with no messages, and on later versions give you an error message with a list of possible problems. If the process fails mid-process though, or on earlier versions if one adjustment runs out of range for example, it MIGHT just hang with a blank screen and not react to anything bar the standby button. Then you're left on your own to find out what went wrong though.
The one thing I know is that no matter the version, apparently all are susceptible to locking up with a black screen if for some reason the IRIS auto-convergence or auto-picture don't manage to finish their routine properly. (IE try to run it with a less then optimal toe in and camera setup. I've had this happen on multiple occasions, now on multiple projectors whenever I tried to do an auto-setup with the PJ on a stand just to get a quick picture out of it.)
Yeah I can post it when I get back for the weekend, I'm out of town on assignment till friday. It's Onyx firmware, at least the label said so, but I doubt there's any difference, it also just says Cine 8 as the projector type while booting.
The problem is, you need a working Mosaic setup to use IDP and ICP. And Mosaic is only activated in the Geforce driver if your card is recognized as a Quadro. You'll need both, a "Quadro" and the expensive software. I have a fully pinned DVI-I cable, but i have no EEPROMS and no device to program it. So, for me , additional hardware is the complicated solution. But still looking forward to see your solution.
Thing is, I don't know how well a hacked card would double as a quadro, but the newer drivers can do the overlap and the soft-edge blending straight from the driver.
I can program an eeprom for you no problem, the question is what is exactly needed for the card. Will anything work as long as there is some edid info, or does it need specific resolutions to be in there?
My concern rather is that I would like to do some gaming on it as well, and tbh an older card won't cut it, while a newer quadro costs more than I spent on my projectors in total to this day...
Thanks for that bit of info! If you have a fully wired DV-VGA adapter for the cards, you could just hook up a simple little eeprom that you pre-load with edid info. If you want I can dig up my documentation on how to do it sometime next week, it'll just take some trawling through my old hard drives. I used to do that for arcade-mame interfacing when it was done with an nvidia card that wouldn't detect non-edid devices on the vga connectors. The chip itself is like 80 cents, and all you need is give it 5v (should be available on the vga output) and connect the two or three data lines (not sure off the top of my head).
If the Immersive software works, I might just go that route. Easier to use my existing GTX1080 if it can be done without hacking the card, cheaper then getting a quadro, and
Admin: I have uploaded a copy of the SM to the digital projector section.
Jan 10, 2017 20:21:56 GMT -5
ducki: sorrry for my bad english ....(google translate
Jan 10, 2017 17:44:21 GMT -5
ducki: I have the same defect as a cp-x4021n you but can not start it ... I did the same trials with ic202 pc102 and still do not like, I make short pin 1 and 2 of the pc102 and PJ light (orange) goes off ... you can help me with a service manual for this PJ? TNX
Jan 10, 2017 17:43:46 GMT -5
jlb12: pwr switch off = 2(0.0) 3(11.7) 6(.04) 7(.04)
Dec 13, 2016 23:27:03 GMT -5
jlb12: No Problem. Thank you for all your help.
Dec 13, 2016 0:20:40 GMT -5
thespianator: Hi! Could use some help with a Hafler DH-200! Very High DC Offset.
Nov 9, 2016 16:50:22 GMT -5
thespianator: Hello again! Could use some opinions on a potential purchase.
Oct 12, 2016 19:29:10 GMT -5
Admin: All links in the CRT service manual section should be working again. There may be some other links in individual posts in the forum that may not work and can be repaired if needed. Just ask.
Oct 2, 2016 18:26:14 GMT -5
Admin: All Barco links should be functioning now. More to follow.
Oct 2, 2016 17:25:04 GMT -5
Admin: All of the 909 links should be working again. Others to follow. Let me know if there are any problems.
Oct 2, 2016 13:30:27 GMT -5
tschaeikaei: i have a gtx480 which has 2 dvi-i (digital+ analog) and i want to know if i can use 400mhz on every port or (using both with the same frequency) 200mhz per port.
Oct 1, 2016 9:15:14 GMT -5
tschaeikaei: Hey guys, does anyone know if nvidia interates one or two ram dac units into their graphics cards.
Oct 1, 2016 9:14:11 GMT -5
Admin: This was already addressed and there is a thread on it in the service manual section. If a link is not currently working all you have to do is ask. Data is all still there. One drive changed the linking process.
Sept 25, 2016 9:17:09 GMT -5
km987654: Guys do any of these one drive links work? I am not sure what the point of this section is if its a bunch of broken links because the data doesn't exist.
Sept 25, 2016 1:47:49 GMT -5