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Post by ratty on May 29, 2017 7:50:48 GMT -5
Okay so I ended up lugging out the scope and making some quick test cabling. So... it was a facepalm moment when I realized the player said without component not composite! So obviously I had the full composite video on the sync pin, plugging it into a composite input I had full colour picture. I still don't know why the video quality changes when using a regular RGB monitor.I also have no idea why that ancient thomson monitor can deal with using composite as sync either, it really shouldn't be able to do that. Regardless, for some reason I thought the TvOne scaler would be able to deal with using composite as sync, but apparently that's not the case. I have to use up an additional loop of my RGB switcher to put in a sync stripper it seems. At least I have that done on a proto-board, so it won't take too much to make it happen.
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Post by ratty on May 29, 2017 7:05:17 GMT -5
So I pulled the cable from the VCR. I made that based on an existing cable, which was obviously mislabelled... So that's one problem down. On the other side things are not so nice. I have an old Thomson RGB via scart monitor (made for commodore and friends originally) that I connected with a fully wired scart lead to the dvd recorder. For some reason or another, despite the selection of 'RGB without composite', I am certain that when I am using the analog tuner portion of the dvd recorder, it does put the full composite signal on the sync pin. When I just have the tuner on, I get a lot of colourful noise on the screen. As soon as I enter the menu, or start a dvd, the noise is gone, and the picture is clear enough that it is obviously going through RGB. Strange thing is, when I enter the menu, there is a transparent overlay over the tuner image for a second, and the noise is gone from the tuner's image as well. It is clear that the video feed is through RGB in either case though, as this monitor doesn't have the scart plug wired to decode composite, if I switch to composite over scart, the image is completely gone. So for some reason when only viewing the tuner there is noise in the RGB feed, and even on a newer CRT tv, the image is duller and has much less colour. That still doesn't explain why my cable won't work though. In effect, I have this made: www.geocities.ws/podernixie/htpc/dvd2vga2.gif but without the sync separator circuit, and instead of a D-sub ending in BNC plugs. Annnd I just realized that the source of the problem could theoretically be upstream in the signal path... (because I'm too lazy to drag my scope down to the theater ) time to try it direct into the projector.
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Post by ratty on May 29, 2017 6:21:56 GMT -5
They have the thin neck-type? I didn't notice that. You think the face size might differ significantly? I mean they're both p16 tubes...
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Post by ratty on May 29, 2017 2:45:58 GMT -5
Thanks, but I'll have to pass, shipping would kill the deal. I can buy PJs near the end of their bulb-life locally around 30-50 euro or so, I might just grab one of those when it comes to it. I really don't intend to use it for viewing anything other than grid-patterns and the sort to assist in setting up my CRT. I was actually considering buying a 720p NEC with a polarizer fault. The colours are crap but for a test-grid I wouldn't really care.
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Post by ratty on May 29, 2017 1:57:49 GMT -5
Progress is happening slowly but surely. PJ is on it's temporary mounts on the ceiling, and I spent the weekend setting up my AV equipment rack more or less successfully. My self-made scart cables are giving me trouble (see forum post in 'other equipment'), but aside from that, now everything's hooked up and seems to be working the way it should. Apparently even the universe wants this to happen, as during my flea-market outings on the weekend, I ended up buying two "plastic-shopping-bag-fuls" (yes that is now officially a unit of measurement ) of 75ohm BNC patch cables, 9 D-sub to BNC cables, and a barebones miniature Dell optiplex PC, all for pretty much next to nothing Makes cabling a lot easier, and I have a virtually noiseless PC for the theater (okay it depends on whether I can make it play HD videos smoothly, as it's an Intel Atom machine and I've never tried if they do okay. I really bought it for the original windows product key )! I am now only looking for a good, preferrably metal encased, HD-18 set. One forum member has offered a complete BG801 at an okay price that has been modded with a HD18 set, though they are the plastic housed lenses from an XG, and it's pretty far away. I'm kinda secretly hoping someone will magically appear with a metal encased set before I get the chance to take that PJ
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Post by ratty on May 29, 2017 1:37:57 GMT -5
Some further reading suggests that the reds were used in G70 sets, the blue and green not, but they should be electronically compatible. I have to wonder how sharp these might be compared to LNP tubes?
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Post by ratty on May 29, 2017 1:21:43 GMT -5
Interesting! gjaky, I'm not sure they were made for NEC PJ's exclusively, the only info I could find is that they were used in retro sets, and they seem electronically compatible with the XG tubes.
Also, PM sent!
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Post by ratty on May 28, 2017 18:20:17 GMT -5
Can you give me the full tube numbers? Are they just bare tubes, or any housing on them ?
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Post by ratty on May 28, 2017 18:15:29 GMT -5
Well that's a shame. To the dump it goes then
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Post by ratty on May 28, 2017 16:30:36 GMT -5
So there's a bucketload of info on the net on how to make scart cables for different game consoles, old computers, pretty much anything really when it comes to using SCART as an input. But using it for RGB output, well there's not much info on that!
Case in point, Panasonic DMR-E85H DVD/HDD recorder. Supposedly this should be able to output RGB via SCART AV1. There is indeed a menu option to set AV1 to "RGB without composite". I selected that option, I have made a scart-to-BNC connector, essentially wiring the RGB and composite pins of the SCART connector to BNC plugs. I am fairly certain I am missing something as there is no activity on any of the pins, but what is it that I'm missing? Anyone know? Using AV1 as an output, technically it should be the DVD unit that is sending the RGB and aspect ratio and blanking signals out, so I shouldn't need any other connections, or do I ?
I have the same problem with my VCR, though I am not sure it's capable of RGB output (plus with a VCR why would you bother anyways, it's not going to be better than over composite), hence I'd just wired up the audio out pins and the composite out to a pair of cinch and a BNC connector, and I'm getting no output at all. Again, in output mode, I shouldn't need to wire in anything else no?
Does anyone have experience building their own cables like this?
Thanks for any help in advance!
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Post by ratty on May 23, 2017 7:06:40 GMT -5
Let me know if and when you have the time to play with this. Looks like I will have an extra 808 to test on very soon
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Post by ratty on May 21, 2017 11:49:36 GMT -5
So after some cussing I stacked two of the original rings for use as guides, then bolted them to my new rings. Made 5.5mm holes, then, as I don't have the special drill bits to make a flat surface with like with the holes made by the machine shop, used a conical bit to countersink the 10mm head of new screws. The end result I think is pretty good. While there, I also made it a point to thread one more of the unthreaded mounting holes for the LC housings. This was necesary because in factory state, it's the middle hole on each LC housing being used, which is okay with the tiny HD215 lenses, but the HD18 have such fat barrels, that to do toe-in on anything smaller then about 100" diagonal would have been impossible. This way The lenses are further apart and can rotate more. Annnd lenses mounted! The focus knob has to go pretty far back, but I can still dial in sharp focus even on my 3m width screen with no real problem. Happy camper So at this point, the Onyx mod is finished. COG board installed and working, the only thing left to do is the temporary mount on the ceiling (for now in the middle until I finish conversion on the 808s) and re-install the covers. Getting some friends to help me with that, then the 808s comes down, and with that I am now actively looking for a set of P16 tubes and a second set of HD18 (preferrably the metal version). If the tubes have the Barco LC housing, that's only a plus!
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Post by ratty on May 20, 2017 15:47:52 GMT -5
So... are there more than one style of Barco 8" LC chambers in use? Because apparently the mounting holes to hold the adapter to the LC housing for the HD117, have the mounting holes near one cm off compared to my original rings (IE I need a second set of holes in my new adapters... At least I don't need the machine shop for that anymore, will do it tomorrow morning, just need to buy a new 5.6 and 10mm drill-bit. Will use my old rings as guides.)
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Post by ratty on May 19, 2017 12:41:17 GMT -5
So I just got back from the machine shop (and painting my equipment rack black). I am okay with the results. (Middle is for HD117 viewed from the back, and to the sides HD-18 adapter from the front (left) and from the back (right))
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Post by ratty on May 19, 2017 0:31:20 GMT -5
Yeah probably not bright enough, but still it'd be something interesting to try, cranking up the G2 and contrast as far as possible might get whatever extra light output is possible. Could try using a different chassis with more HV, but then I'd need a Geiger counter to check for x-rays. Otherwise I might not need a nightlight for a midnight piss anymore :DD
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