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Post by ratty on May 18, 2017 16:10:00 GMT -5
Hey guys, I don't really know where else to put this, this looks like the most appropriate section. I recently bought an old Canon camera at a flea market. It has pretty decent optics, and manual zoom and focus options, which I was looking for. (The idea was to use it to aim at my screen on a dot pattern and have that go to a TV near my projector to make magnetics setup of the tubes easier.) Anyways, I bought the thing (really cheap so no big loss if it's beyond saving), tried it out, and it was working just fine. A few months later I actually wanted to use it, and hooked it up. The first thing off was the viewfinder just displaying a vertical bar, though the AV out was still working. By the time I set up the test patterns on my screen, the image from the camera lost sync, and I smelled the piss-stench of electrolyte in the room. Opening the thing up, pretty much all the SMD lytics (and there's a ton of them) were bleeding... Now replacing ~200 SMD caps on tiny circuit boards is not my idea of a good time, plus they're packed really tight, and some of the leads are already corroded, so limited chance of success. Plus it's a HI8 cam, so it's not really worth the price of so many caps. I know virtually nothing about how cameras are built up, so if the question is dumb, just tell me to drop it I have the entire CCD/Lens assembly removed as a whole. Can I get video out of that somehow without having to rebuild the whole camera? If no, I'll just toss it and keep my eyes open for something else that has a macro-ready lens and manual focus. Thanks!
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Post by ratty on May 17, 2017 16:37:24 GMT -5
I'm no authority on the subject, but if the colour's all bleeding out one side, check the colour drive transistors. I've had incorrectly replaced or dying transistors on neckboards cause that with arcade monitors. Also check any resistors in the drive circuit, they can also cause a transistor to go 'lazy' and cause a bleeding effect.
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Post by ratty on May 17, 2017 15:45:51 GMT -5
So a stupid thought occurred to me while stripping some Barco tubes of their coloured glycol. Has anyone ever tried using one of the small colour crt tv's to turn them into a projector? I do have a tiny CRT TV that has a colour tube that's nearly flat-faced and small enough to fit a 7 inch tube's coolant chamber. I am not at all certain whether the phosphor inside would be near as durable as projection tubes, and focus might be an issue at high contrast/brightness settings, but I might attempt this on a day when I'm particularily bored, just for the weird factor. I think it'd be really cool to have a tiny portable TV with a HD6C lens on it's front used as a portable CRT projector
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Post by ratty on May 17, 2017 12:04:17 GMT -5
Going to be blending with analog processors, so I need the HDMI->RGB conversion outside the projectors. That will be for 1080p though, for the higher res (whichever I settle on) will be PC fed, for that I might consider the moome cards, though I'm not a fan of the way the connections end up for Barcos.
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Post by ratty on May 16, 2017 12:43:44 GMT -5
I was thinking about that, but I'll have to go external for the blend. I'm thinking of trying one of the suggested 'cheap chinese' ones that are moddable to be decent.
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Post by ratty on May 14, 2017 16:42:45 GMT -5
I will try and take a peek, but it's very sporadic, sometimes it doesn't seem to happen at all for hours. I hooked up my PS4 through one of the TV one scalers and saw it again tonight, but it's really just a momentary flash. I might have to mount a camera to catch it.
Also, fun fact, 1080p coming from the PS4 through a HDfury gets quite a bit of image foldover at the sides. Running it through the TV One, output set to 1080p@60hz works without having to touch any porch timings or anything. Also aside from a slightly softer image (do note the magnetics have not been tweaked nor the focus settings really), it looks pretty damn good. No ringing either!
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Post by ratty on May 14, 2017 3:14:02 GMT -5
So I was watching some movies on my 808s last night, and I noticed something again that I never know what to make of. Outside of the active image area (but I suspect still within the raster area), occasionally I see small white flashes. Not the entire area flashes, just a small amorphous blob for no longer than a single frame.
I've heard the term flashover regarding CRTs, but never actually experienced it, however I would think that flashover comes with audible ticking (at least) ? Anyone have any ideas what this could be? It doesn't really bother me so much as worries me if it's a symptom of a more severe problem about to rear it's head.
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Post by ratty on May 12, 2017 16:57:58 GMT -5
So the good news is I didn't fry anything, projector works just fine.
The bad news is, I apparently used the wrong C-element to do my measurements, and hence my C-element-to-lens distance is still nowhere near good. However, There's a limited amount of material on the rings that I can still take off without rendering them completely useless. Looks like I'll have to have completely custom adapters made after all. Does anyone here have a G70 they could take one lens off of to take a single measurement for me? I'd need the exact distance between the base of the lens housing and the rim of the C-element.
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Post by ratty on May 12, 2017 13:10:25 GMT -5
Thanks, I'm thinking I might pick up an LT240 (uses same lamp, lens, casing, except has no dvi input, but has USB and a few differences) nearby that is working, but I'm not sure I really want to spend money on old digitals. It would just be great if I knew this was a bulb thing and could get it going to get a reference grid for setting up my CRTs. I'd get something newer for the task, but anything that has okay optics (I need to be able to set it up for a 3 meter wide screen) seems to go for more money than I'm willing to spend on it.
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Post by ratty on May 12, 2017 12:56:13 GMT -5
Not sure about regular flavour Cine8, but the Onyx doesn't, it only has the contrast mod board by default. (Which is great because now the one Decibel sent me can go into my 808s, so I'll be set to do the blend soon as I can get my hands on a set of new-ish P16 tubes and another HD18 set. I already have the LC chambers with some rather crispy charred tubes attached. If anyone in the EU (or even overseas if the price is right) has a set of HD18+Celements and a set of new or used but very very low hour P16s, let me know!) Time to put it all back together and see what I've done now
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Post by ratty on May 12, 2017 0:45:28 GMT -5
I had many of these boards and they were all the same The board version that guide is for has two or three connectors fewer. But for this PJ, the one you sent me is definitely the right one. If you look at the guide, the convergence board pictured in it also has less connectors, so there's clearly an earlier version pictured there. Anyways, so far so good
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Post by ratty on May 12, 2017 0:41:38 GMT -5
Those images are really out of focus when enlarged. It looks like you have a yellow cable running to the IRIS board and that should not be the case. The IRIS board is the little board attached to the Control board. Where does that cable come from? The IRIS board connects to the IRIS camera at the front of the convergence tray by a long gray cable. Yeah my phone's camera has a lot of problems with focus when it deems it a 'low light situation without flash'. Company's getting us iPhone 7 next month... I both dread and look forward to the day at the same time... That yellow cable is not connected there, I just tucked it in behind the board to get it out of the way while routing the other cables under the lid. That's the cable that will go to the siwtcher board. I know where the rest of the cables go (I have my 808s for reference if I forget something anyways), mostly just curious about the COG.
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Post by ratty on May 11, 2017 16:17:28 GMT -5
I have seen that, but that is for a different version of the board! It is smaller then this one, and has fewer connections!
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Post by ratty on May 11, 2017 15:18:39 GMT -5
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Post by ratty on May 10, 2017 14:41:39 GMT -5
Now only if I had some spare time to rework my monitor mounts and assemble the Onyx. Probably not happening before Saturday though :\ On the plus side, my package from Decibel finally showed up today! Not like I had time to do much with it, but I unpacked the stuff. The contrast modulation board is a clear-cut case, just going to need to find some stand-offs to mount it. However the COG board I am unsure of. It is board nr R762819. The only info google shows about this board is that it didn't work for some guys in a 808, but I couldn't find anything else. I don't really see why it wouldn't work though if it's stated to work with even the 700 series? I guess I'll find out when I put all this stuff together
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