|
Post by analogrocks on Sept 9, 2020 1:54:39 GMT -5
Thanks for looking. I re-did all the ground points I could find under the hood. Found another green wire. Repaired it. Cleaned all the ground bolts and terminals in rust remover and then cleaned with IPA and lubed with silicone grease. Looks pretty. Still doesn't start.
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Sept 5, 2020 20:23:47 GMT -5
I spent 3 hours on it. All the positive feeds are there. I'm wondering about the negative ground feeds. The "Check Engine" light would come and go. The car would start, run for a bit then shut off by itself. No check engine light. I'll be cleaning all the grounds tomorrow. I'm now looking for a diagram of the pin outs from the 3 connectors on the ECM. I want to check the grounds going into the computer with a light and a shake of the wiring harness.
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Sept 3, 2020 20:31:45 GMT -5
Hi Mac, it started and ran for 10 minutes today, shut it off and started it up a second time. I was on my way to work so I came back to it tonight.
I put the fuse box back together, put the cover on the wiring harness on the drivers side that goes through the firewall. NO START.
I also have "CHECK ENGINE" light again, so I'm not going to bother with the ECM.
Then it started to pour rain so I'll be at it again tomorrow. I could still use a wiring diagram.
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Sept 1, 2020 22:46:45 GMT -5
Hi, saw that one a few weeks ago. No missing fuse. I'm looking for another ECM and a wiring diagram.
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Aug 30, 2020 21:02:01 GMT -5
HI Mac, yes it's my car. Things - business is running at 50% of what it was and no body cares. lol
I bought 2 OBD II scanners and they wouldn't communicate with the ECM after the first try. That is: I tested one of the two scanners the day I got it but it was 91 degrees on the parking lot so I decided to try later. It didn't work later. Also no check engine light on key on indicating - from what I read - that the ECM isn't communicating.
I tried unplugging the sensors one at a time. I mapped all the fuses, I did a continuity check from the fuse/relay box under the hood over to the ECM. There is power there. Also replaced the connector on the crank sensor. The road salt had degraded it and it disintegrated when I touched it.
The speedo reads 50km/h sitting still and the needle bounces up and down. I have a new VSS but I'm not convinced that's it so I haven't installed it. It feels like the ECM or bad wiring harness. But it's hard to know without a diagram.
The car was running, it shut off left me on the side of the road.
Immediately before that I replaced the Fuel Pump Driver Module and fuel cut of switch and connector. All were corroded. Then I replaced the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail. No difference. No start.
Thanks, Jeremy
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Aug 28, 2020 16:32:57 GMT -5
Hey Mac, how are you?! Long time no hear.
I just remembered you are THE man for diagrams. Would you happen to have a wiring diagram for ECM / engine bay.
2005 4.6 CVPI?
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Apr 16, 2016 0:45:57 GMT -5
I was wondering if there's an easy way to change the RF modulated signal on an Over The Air ATSC tuner box to make it output on a CATV channel other than channel 2,3 or 4?
I want to make a mini TV headend on the cheap here. We get 25 channels OTA. I'm wondering if there's an easy way to make the RF output tune to a different channel? Firmware hack? New crystal frequency ( wishful, and old thinking? lol ) I'd like to make a good old Analog cable system for my own use in my own place.
Anyone have any ideas?
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Apr 15, 2016 6:41:29 GMT -5
Also found this:
He talks of replacing 2 diodes. Could this affect the TV here too? If so which pair of diodes would I change? I notice there are two, one beside each MCZ3001DB IC. Could these be the ones?
Keeping in mind this is a different model TV.
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Apr 14, 2016 22:38:13 GMT -5
Are they both blowing or just one of them? I'm not actually sure. I've been replacing them in pairs each time.
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Apr 14, 2016 19:39:12 GMT -5
Hi Mac, I've fixed this TV 3 times with new power IC's.
The problem being it keeps blowing the MCZ3001DB IC's.
The first set of IC's were in there 2 years, the new IC's last only about 3-4 months. Is there anything I should check to determin why these are blowing out? The other behaviour today was as follows: TV was already on, PS3 ( hooked to DVI port ) as soon as the PS3 was powered on the TV shut itself off.
I have one set of IC's left; instead of just pluggin them in and blowing them out I'd rather troubleshoot this abit.
Chassis number: DA4 SCC-570F-A Serial number: A805601
HALP!
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Mar 10, 2016 13:18:22 GMT -5
Got in touch with the shop you gave me. He said he just threw out all his ribbon cables (groan). NUTS!
So, still looking.
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Feb 19, 2016 16:53:11 GMT -5
OK got it. Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by analogrocks on Feb 17, 2016 22:20:03 GMT -5
Hello guys.
I almost have this monitor working. The right half of the screen is not displaying. I have replaced the input board and the T-CON board but I need a ribbon cable. Probably the one that runs from the T-con to the right half of the screen.
Anyone know where I can find one?
I'll call LG Canada and see what they say at the following numbers:
647-253-6300
1-888-542-2623
|
|