|
Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 15:59:22 GMT -5
I've reflowed PS3's and Xbox 360's with the heat gun, so I have the technique down. Someone had posted a comment about taking it to ~450F and verifying with IR.
I'll give it a shot in a bit.
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 13:29:15 GMT -5
I will try the 2nd receiver with a host of different sources today. If I still get no audio/video I'll take a heat gun to it briefly and see if that makes a difference. Last resort will be to pull it out entirely and try to reflow the DTS chip. I've got an IR gun at work that I'll bring home with me. Any recommendation as to a temperature to get the chip up to?
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 11:11:42 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 31, 2014 10:54:18 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 30, 2014 22:23:57 GMT -5
I do have a heat gun.
I've also read a couple of threads describing the replacement of the 100uF capacitors on both sides of the board, but that was the one that mentioned a service bulletin and daughterboard to regulate voltage.
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 30, 2014 20:41:37 GMT -5
I had previously tested it with an ipod, but I'll try it via the analog video. I factory reset it, and the speaker icons did not appear.
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 30, 2014 17:49:42 GMT -5
That's correct. No sound or video output when I tried hooking up a bluray player via HDMI, nor when I hooked up an AM antenna for the tuner. No speakers show on the front display. Not sure what you mean about the speakers turned on.
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 30, 2014 15:45:10 GMT -5
I'm reading up on the NR807, and it appears that the HDMI board is a common failure. I don't want to get too far ahead of myself, *crossing my fingers*, but if this does fix the unit, would it be advisable to get some copper/aluminum ramsinks and some Arctic Silver adhesive to place on the two BGA's on the HDMI board?
I don't want to take apart the second unit because it's going to be my template for putting the first unit back together. I took some pictures, but there's nothing like having a spare to look at to see how everything connects. I am however, tempted to take a heatgun to the second unit to see if the HDMI board is the only culprit, but I'll hold off on that.
Edit:
It appears there is a service bulletin for the HDMI board that details which caps to replace, although it also needs a daughterboard that Onkyo won't sell to the public. I'll refrain from whipping out my heat gun.
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 29, 2014 19:00:40 GMT -5
What is the cost? And this is for which parts?
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 29, 2014 11:29:49 GMT -5
Unless the transistors are $10+, I'd rather try to fix this one before starting another project. Repair/Storage space is at a minimum.
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 28, 2014 22:59:12 GMT -5
Is there someplace you would recommend sourcing the transistors from? The two that I know (Mouser and Digikey) appear to be out of stock.
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 28, 2014 20:19:23 GMT -5
Dang, now the pressure is on.
Mac, what other parts need to be desoldered?
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 28, 2014 19:08:50 GMT -5
I made a small mistake. I had meant to switch out the HDMI boards, but I forgot and now everything is in pieces. But the good news is that I am ready to start taking out the suspect parts. The leads from transistors 5 and 6 have been desoldered and I am in the process of removing Q6011.
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 28, 2014 13:21:20 GMT -5
I won't be home for another 4-5 hours. I'll pull the HDMI board from the other AVR and test it in this one.
|
|
|
Post by tokejo on Jan 28, 2014 12:50:00 GMT -5
I definitely need a better DMM, this was pretty cheap.
I'd prefer to try and repair 1-2 at a time, finish with them and then move on. Otherwise I risk misplacing parts/tools/screws, etc.
Have we narrowed down all the parts that need to be replaced already?
Do you know what triggered these parts to fail?
If I haven't said it yet, thank you for your help and patience.
|
|