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Post by justgreg on Mar 7, 2015 20:07:58 GMT -5
I had this BR player given to me because it locks up. If just plugged in and turned on it will be fine indefinately and you can scroll through menus. Insert a disc and the laser carriage homes just fine and the player waits for the next command. Within 5 seconds or so of pressing Play the heat sinked processor on the control board heats up and the player locks up and won't do anything. I sprayed freeze on the processor heatsink to verify this and watched it very rapidly melt and thaw within seconds. I gently tried to move the laser carriage while it was locked up and to me it seemed to put up a fight. I took the drive apart and didn't see any signs of broken parts or over travel. Not being able to find a service manual I can only guess so here's guess number one. I think the laser is drawing too much current or has a dead short. So a couple questions: 1) Should the laser emit light when observing it when the unit is powered up and the carriage aligns? 2) Are laser voltages adjustable? 3) If so, what are the average nominal voltages? It isn't that I don't have other better players...I've just run out of things to work on so dragged this out of the Someday Corner.
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Post by justgreg on Mar 2, 2015 20:47:01 GMT -5
You were spot on. The thing powers up and just like I'd read only when installed in-system. The thing won't even pass-through but I'll take it because I still have that TX-NR708 I fixed to handle switching. I left the diode lifted and soldered in one of the CD-Drive fuses I mentioned earlier. It 'should' be half the rated voltage of the 24v fuse because CD-Drives operate at +12vdc. Not sure of it's current rating though. Now all I have to do is get my hands on the EDID for a Mitsubishi DLP circa 2008-2009 (any ideas?) and get it into a Gefen HDMI Detective to fully utilize the thing with 3D gaming and cable TV because the 3DS-1000 has an EDID block which actually pops a message up on the screen informing the TV isn't compatible with the adapter. Mitsu came out with the 3DA-1 to cater to legacy Samsung 3D Ready TV's. 3D movies right now are no problem because the Panny BR player handles the checkerboard output.
So...success Mac! Was there ever any doubt? Now to move on to an Insignia smart BR player that powers up for a minute (depending on ambient temp) until the processor gets hot and then it totally locks up. Tray won't even eject. But I'll start another thread for that.
Thank you again for donating your time and for the educational hand holding Mac. See you on the next project!
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Post by justgreg on Mar 2, 2015 18:32:54 GMT -5
Thank you for defining all the tests we did already. I was wondering about the diagnostic nature of them.
Just so I understand...am I applying full 5v with the diode soldered back in place and the missing fuse bridged?... or should I take a single strand of ubber thin wire and make a makeshift fuse? I salvaged some tiny arsed SMD fuses from an old PC CD-drive the other day but have no idea their rating as it wasn't marked on the board. I'm not even confident I can get one back in without smoking it but there's only one way to find out.
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Post by justgreg on Mar 2, 2015 16:40:31 GMT -5
My bad....false alarm. I tested the heck out of that cap repeatedly earlier and got a tone on both sides every time. I just retested it and this time it's behaving normally. This set of leads has probes that are relatively stubby and unfortunately my pin probe leads are at a friends house. Crap. Thought I was onto something. Back to the drawing board.
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Post by justgreg on Mar 2, 2015 16:01:17 GMT -5
I went to the manuf site xilinx.com and read the datasheet (well, tried to). This is a fairly complex programmable FPGA that does IO, DC switching, and a slew of other data handling chores. From what I could deduce it would have to be programmed by Mitsubishi to conform to the 3DC-1000. Even if I got my hands on a direct replacement it would be devoid of their programming and useless. Hopefully the problem is the cap I pointed out is shorted internally and not getting a 'false' ground on both poles from a short internal to the XILINX. And if it does prove to be the cap...what value is it? It would be foolish to assume an adjacent one is the same value I know but without a SM would there be any other alternative? Time to pull out the Blue ESR and play some more.
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Post by justgreg on Mar 2, 2015 15:29:50 GMT -5
While waiting for the next step I tested every SMD cap on both sides of the board for a short to ground. A few didn't have a ground polar side and I assumed these were for circuit series filtering?...I did find one cap that was infinite on both sides. I've attached a rather blurry pic but it should do. The white on it is from me...I used a grease pencil to mark it while I continued testing. This cap is directly underneath what I assume is a processing IC. Part number below. XILINX SPARTAN XC3S700A FGG484AGQ1045 D4171258A Unfortunately it's a BGA. I can remove it with a heat gun but am not equipped to install a replacement, (assuming it is the problem due to an internal short and one can be found), or to re-ball this one. I was going to remove the cap and test for continuity at the pads but figured I'd best wait for you to give me the nod...that and I really don't want to try and keep track of the poles on the little blighter.
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Post by justgreg on Mar 2, 2015 13:30:37 GMT -5
No power led @5v with diode as is. So damn curious what it is about these boards/design that causes this exact same failure in a large number of these things when mains are removed or applied. Beginning to wonder if there's a design flaw in the layering of the boards that pops up after heating and cooling and causes a localized short in the area of that diode pad. smh Where to next?
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Post by justgreg on Mar 2, 2015 0:24:23 GMT -5
Yes and no. Yes there is a power on LED and no I didn't try to power it up. I honestly didn't think to try. I was concerned with energizing it just long enough to get the measurements. I 'think' I read it won't bench power on out of the video chain but I'll have to confirm that.
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Post by justgreg on Mar 1, 2015 22:51:47 GMT -5
PIN ISL6545 FDS8984 1 OL 0 2 23.40 OL 3 0 OL 4 OL OL 5 OL OL 6 OL OL 7 OL OL 8 OL OL
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Post by justgreg on Mar 1, 2015 21:08:45 GMT -5
Dangit. Couldn't find the 6545 Googling. I tried changing the Z to a 2 and then a 7, and left off the last set of alphanumeric to narrow down the search. No go.
The other is an N-Gate 30V 7A MOSFET.
There's always one that resists ID eh?
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Post by justgreg on Mar 1, 2015 20:48:14 GMT -5
These are a bear to see....couldn't find my loupes
OK. Pic of board with power-in connector to the top: IC left of diode: 6545 ACBZ 10182PW IC directly under diode: PATH F(could be a T)DS 8984
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Post by justgreg on Mar 1, 2015 18:54:28 GMT -5
OK. We got the voltages you expected in steps 1&2. Got +5.xx at the end of the diode. Not sure I mentioned it earlier but the pad the diode end normally solders to has continuity to ground. Where to next Yoda?
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Post by justgreg on Mar 1, 2015 15:37:56 GMT -5
Love it. The plot thickens! Results to follow in a bit.
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Post by justgreg on Feb 28, 2015 23:19:20 GMT -5
*Power connector center pin to leg 1 of regulator = continuity. No continuity to any of the other 3 legs on the regulator. *Power connector ground = The only leg with continuity is #2
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Post by justgreg on Feb 28, 2015 22:16:52 GMT -5
Yessir. Reversed probes.
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