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Post by tschaeikaei on Aug 13, 2022 14:53:36 GMT -5
Sounds interesting, do you have more info on that? As far as i read, "direct" blending using the Geforce driver only worked under Windows XP and has not been available with newer drivers and cards.
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Post by tschaeikaei on Aug 13, 2022 12:03:44 GMT -5
I read through this thread again and tried 1080i120 on my Quadro4000. But nothing seemed to work, not CRU, not Nvidias custom resolution utility. Is there any trick i don't know? Thanks And Gabor: Thank you very much for all the interesting mods you've done and documented. Some day i hope to contribute as well ... but for now i'd be glad to win the struggle against graphics drivers. Best regards, Julian
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Post by tschaeikaei on Aug 12, 2022 20:13:25 GMT -5
Anyone using that software for edgeblending? I do.. but there are some issues i never managed to correct. Best Regards, Julian
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Post by tschaeikaei on Aug 12, 2022 20:09:04 GMT -5
Guys, someone in Europe willing to sale 9" coloured C-elements in decent state and for a fair price ? Thanks. I should have at least two greens, but the lighter colored version. If you're still in the need of them. Best regards, Julian
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Post by tschaeikaei on Dec 16, 2020 16:27:23 GMT -5
Hey Gjaki, did you try 120Hz interlaced with shutter glasses? Regards Julian
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Post by tschaeikaei on Oct 31, 2020 21:35:57 GMT -5
1) Marquee 9500 Ultra blend with P43 phosphor 2) Germany 3) 125" "Leinwandstoff silber beschichtet" 4) PC, no additional hardware. Modded Geforce--> Quadro Card, Software: NV Mosaic and Immersive Display pro to blend, NVidia Driver and Shutter glasses for 3d 5) bright enough when the room is dark 6) happy with the projectors, software isn't worth it's money 7) - working software without sharpness losses (scaling softens the picture), - some new green tubes since you can see discoloration in bright scenes - time to work on the projectors
Regards, Julian
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Post by tschaeikaei on Jan 12, 2020 19:34:34 GMT -5
PM sent
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Post by tschaeikaei on Jun 11, 2018 17:23:28 GMT -5
Hey Barclay, how thick is that insulating plastic sheet between your splitter and FGM box? I've also done that, initially thinking the problem is caused by dirt on the splitter plastic case. It had no effect. I do. Tried four different splitters, each one behaves the same. Funny thing is: the splitter i use normally on the other projector does cause HV leaks noise and ozone on the "problem projector", but much less on the other projector. So i thought it could be the HVPS: measured the high voltage (i have a HV probe, Fluke 80K-40 ). 34.97 on one and 34,98kV on the other projector. So, no problems there. Both measurements with all tubes lit. I guess this problems come from some sort of floating ground issues or something like that, but cannot find the root of it. It is visible in the picture, if i project a full white field (internal test picture), there are some lines that flicker and go dark from time to time. Just random flickering, nothing repeatable. But i conclude, that this leakage current is quiete a substantial amount of the total 4.5mA the HVPS can provide. And that, apart from the ozone and noise is bad. You see it, you hear it, you smell it I will try cleaning the splitter case again tomorrow and add another PMMA sheet between splitter and metal. Regards, Julian
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Post by tschaeikaei on Jun 10, 2018 20:49:02 GMT -5
Hey, i recently had some problems with the splitter of my Marquee. It is mounted on the aluminium sheet on a 3mm PMMA sheet for increased insulation on the green tube's housing. Why that? Because i have a 120mm fan at the place they normally sit (the dark grey plastic sheet). Splitter has been mounted like that for several years and i never had problems. I didn't use the projectors very much in summer time the last years, mostly in winter.
The problem is: there are sparks and smell of ozone from the splitter case and the HV-lead couplings to the chassis as well as audible crackling of variable frequency. I suppose the warm weather in the last weeks (going with increased humidity) lowers the isolation resistance of the air between splitter case and sheet metal.
Done so far: adding electrical tape and tar soaked insulation hose over the last 2 inches of HV cable as well as the PMMA sheet between splitter and metal. Results: not so much. crackling got less, but it is still not gone.
Strange to me: the casing of the splitter is electrically leaky. I can hold a screwdriver against the plastic case and pull sparks (about 3 to 5mm) to the sheet metal. Anyone experienced something like this? Any solutions?
Another question: The Marquee splitters are known to have 3 3.3kOhm resistors inside, each from the input to the individual tube connectors. I measured these resistors on all 4 splitters i have. They are between 2.8 and 4 kOhms, only 2 resistors were at 3k3 +-.1k. is this normal? Would it effect anything in the picture if they're out of spec? I do not think so, because if you assume the tubes to be resistive loads, they would have 34,9Mohm at 1mA. So another 3.3kOhms would not effect the system very much.
Regards, Julian
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Post by tschaeikaei on Feb 18, 2018 14:36:10 GMT -5
Well, this is strange. I was told by a local guy (who did business with CRT projectors back in the day) that he knows someone who uses PG since last year in his daily-used Marquee.
How can the stuff behave so differently. Are you, stridsvognen 100% sure about the stuff? Housings were cleaned before the test? How often was the projector used?
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Post by tschaeikaei on Feb 18, 2018 7:44:33 GMT -5
Hey Case, I'm thinking about using propylene glycol myself. Is everything still fine with your projectors? No discoloration so far?
The stuff should oxidize in sunlight (or other ultraviolet sources) and turn into a deep brown mixture of different acids. Question is... how much oxygen is needed for this and will it diffuse through the bellows?
Regards, Julian
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Post by tschaeikaei on Feb 17, 2018 14:48:33 GMT -5
Is there any way to find out what anti-corrosion-agent is added to the stuff?
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Post by tschaeikaei on Feb 7, 2018 20:51:44 GMT -5
No, not aggressive, cheap and if there's already water in the mixture, it shouldn't be too hygroscopic anymore. ...I hope so. Propyleneglycol (PG) is also clear to the eye. It has a smaller refractive index, but is much less viscous. But the most important point is still not not confirmed. I don't know about the translucence of this stuff. It let's visible light easily pass through. But since there curves and data on the internet about the translucence and refractive index vs. wavelength (of other substances)... i'd be glad to find such data for PG and vegetable glycerol (VG). You can get either of these two in vape- shops for about 11€/L in Germany, maybe similar in your place.
But: If you buy PGor VG in a vape shop, it comes in brown plastic bottles (-->UV-protection) and they print a best before-date on it. About 2 years... Best solution would be to find out what kind of anti-corrosion- additive or stabilizer to extend the life of the stuff.
My next goal is to test the c-element with a refractometer and going with data instead of guessing and trying.
Any plans for your tubes? What are you planning to fill the housings with?
Regards, Julian
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Post by tschaeikaei on Feb 7, 2018 9:58:50 GMT -5
Hey guys,
Gjaki: Yeah, i've seen that. 40% water, 'bout 4% anti-corrosion agent + some glycerol. I think the waters job is improving heat capacity and lowering the viscosity. Glycerol is rather thick, i use it in my electronic cigarette's liquid. It has the about right refractive index of 1,4746 (closer to 1,49 of PMMA than any of the other substances) but... it is highly viscous and i do not have numbers about it's heat transfer properties.
When glycerol and propylene glycol is mixed (you do that when mixing electronic cigarette's liquid), it makes "schlieren" (which seems the same word in English as in German). The schlieren disappear when thoroughly mixing, but I'm not to sure about it's optical properties. Will do some experiments...
I hope you haven't refilled your tubes with monoethyleneglycol so far! Or if you did, you really painted the housings with a thick layer of epoxy. I underestimated that shit. Shame over me.
I think i will take one of the (clear) c-elements i have here to the university in the next days and ask about a refractometer and someone who can use it. Maybe I'm lucky and we'll finally get a number of that c-element refractive index.
Regards, Julian
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Post by tschaeikaei on Feb 6, 2018 21:12:19 GMT -5
Well, i think i made a mistake here. After using my Marquees a fair amount in the last months, i noticed halos on black background around bright menus. Looking into the lenses confirmes: the glycol is cloudy again. Shame on me for telling you it was good. Now looking for a vendor of "ice clear AF" (or similar) in Germany. Are there any threads about coolants i did miss? Ice clear AF
All about Glycol CRT coolant and where to buy
Barco 808LC Glycol Replacement
Ice clear product page
Experiments with glycols and similar stuffThe refractive index of PMMA (=acrylic) is 1,492, monoethyleneglycol's 1,4318, glycerine's 1,4745. I do not know if c-elements are made of PMMA, that's a guess. One could also tend to use propyleneglycol, but according to Wikipedia, it is highly hydrophilic. I donot know if water would diffuse through the bellows and into the propylene glycol, but in the case of monoethyleneglycol, it does. If anyone does have the possibility of using a refractometer with a C-element, i'd be thankful. Regards, Julian
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