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Post by jeremy on Jul 1, 2014 21:19:27 GMT -5
So this is rather unexpected. This sub is literally only 50 hours used, and brand new pretty much. I got it from a friend who never set his system up.
Tonight I unplugged it, and plugged it back in in a different outlet, and the power died on it. I checked the fuse, and the fuse is good. I know it should have been powered down before unplugging but lets not go there. 
I took it out of the sub, and its not an easy fix by the looks of it, since there is glue on a bunch of the parts. I can get the power supply out however. I could really use some help because I am at a loss with this. |
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Post by mastertech on Jul 1, 2014 21:46:34 GMT -5
I do have some bash amps schematics. Do you have any board numbers and maybe some pics?
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Post by mastertech on Jul 1, 2014 21:51:04 GMT -5
Oh, and did you have a signal going to it when it appeared dead?
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Post by jeremy on Jul 1, 2014 21:57:33 GMT -5
I can get you pics and numbers in the AM no problem. The sub was connected to a receiver that was turned off, but I had the sub ON, I don't do that signal sense auto on stuff.
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Post by jeremy on Jul 2, 2014 11:01:30 GMT -5
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Post by mastertech on Jul 2, 2014 20:57:41 GMT -5
None of the schematics I have are like this. I need to search some more to see what I can find. I looked at the pictures and can not give a direct location to search other then poking around as I'm sure you have already. Let me do some more checking.
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Post by jeremy on Jul 2, 2014 21:17:10 GMT -5
No problem MT. I am hoping for the best  |
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Post by jeremy on Jul 3, 2014 10:46:53 GMT -5
MT, I think I found the problem on the amp power supply. Its one of the little sub boards, the one next to the 2 big black capacitors.
The board says: Indigo Canada 660045-1. I looked this up on google and there was some Norway dude that had the same board with the same issue on a Klipsch subwoofer. I'll post pics in a bit, but one of the surface mount resistors is so badly burned it popped off and its unreadable visualy so I have no idea what value it is. It reads open on the ohm scale as well. And theres also another resistor on the board that reads 50-some K ohms and I don't know for sure if that's correct either.
I'll get the pics of it in a bit.
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Post by mastertech on Jul 3, 2014 11:23:22 GMT -5
Might be able to help here. Get me the pics.
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Post by jeremy on Jul 3, 2014 13:45:52 GMT -5
Okay I have 2 pics of the board, one front, one back, the back has nothing on it thankfully. I don't have the resistor that popped off anymore it disappeared overnight, but it read open and the writing on it was completely burnt off so it wouldn't have done any good anyway.   |
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Post by mastertech on Jul 3, 2014 15:37:17 GMT -5
Looks like the marking is 1213 which should be 121,000 ohm and it looks the same as the one below it.  |
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Post by jeremy on Jul 3, 2014 17:16:16 GMT -5
Looks like the marking is 1213 which should be 121,000 ohm and it looks the same as the one below it. I see that on that board. Those 2 were way off, one open and one read half of what it should. What about the 2210 right next to the 1213? Mine read 222 ohms, I am thinking that one is okay? |
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Post by mastertech on Jul 3, 2014 17:23:26 GMT -5
Yes, that one should be fine.
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Post by jeremy on Jul 3, 2014 17:58:25 GMT -5
Excellent, I think I will modify the resistors and use standard 1/4 watt flameproofs, like I said the sub is barely used so I can only assume that damage was from unplugging and plugging it in right away.
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Post by jeremy on Jul 4, 2014 9:04:29 GMT -5
MT, thank you for providing those part values. The subwoofer is once again working! I used 2 121,000 ohm 1/4 watt flameproof resistors instead of the surface mount types, since the foils were ruined anyway, and these should handle a little more oomph than the originals.
Anyone that has a bash amplifier that wont power on, and finds bad resistors such as I did, make sure you use safety type resistors so you do not damage the unit in the event the repair fails in the future.
It's also a good idea to POWER OFF the sub BEFORE DISCONNECTING THE POWER CORD. I never would have thought this to be necessary, but I wouldn't risk doing it ever again. Had this issue been more serious, the subwoofer would likely not have been repairable.
Thanks again MT! Glad this one was "easy"!
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