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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Feb 26, 2015 3:59:42 GMT -5
So i just deleted all blocks and reset convergence, so far so good, seems quite solid. Ill run it for a few hours tonight and see how it goes.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Feb 26, 2015 4:10:06 GMT -5
Well it just shut off, the regulators are so hot i cant touch them, seemed to be the middle two mostly.  |
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Post by gjaky on Feb 26, 2015 11:55:07 GMT -5
Maybe I'm wrong, but I think your problem somehow is in conjunction with the hot regulators. Maybe the power off is simply caused by a regulator's internal protection (heat or current), that cause power outage on that line, therefore the board is crashing. Unfortunately I don't have the schematics for that board, but as you reported the board works fine until it shuts down, I wouldn't suspect the major ICs and transistors to be faulty yet, instead a failing capacitor (which even could be a small ceramic SMD cap) anywhere on the board. You don't have to cut legs, as I already mentioned you can try measure "cold" resistance on the regulated rails (with mains cord unplugged), if you are lucky you should measure significant difference between the good and bad boards. This, however would only take you one step further... But I am quite sure after one point you won't be able to go further without desoldering random parts.
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Post by gjaky on Feb 26, 2015 12:01:00 GMT -5
And one more thing: you can replace the regulators, but I think the hot heatsink is more like a consequence than a cause. replacing the capacitors might be a good idea though.
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Post by mastertech on Feb 26, 2015 12:34:03 GMT -5
With that controller on your bench, set your DMM on diode scale and test between legs 2 and 3 on each of those 2 center regulators and give me the readout. Try probes both ways.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Feb 26, 2015 20:44:05 GMT -5
Ill try to get to that when i get home today, thanks!
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Post by hulio on Feb 28, 2015 6:08:17 GMT -5
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 1, 2015 3:43:10 GMT -5
Thanks mate, i have got to it yet because ive been flat out with work, but i will check it out soon.
Will putting the ESR meter on those caps be of any benefit?
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Post by hulio on Mar 1, 2015 9:26:03 GMT -5
Yes, ESR meter gives a more accurate way to test caps. With a multimeter, the chances are big you'll test a realy bad cap as good.
However, the test must be done out of the circuit ( caps desoldered ).
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 14, 2015 5:15:33 GMT -5
Ok, here is an update.
It was not the controller board at all. It was the switcher card, i swapped that today after an issue developed last night that caused loss of sync.
Swapping the switcher card has made the set super stable again.
I also put some better tubes in from my 909 so i can fit my new tubes to my Cine 9 housings, although the tubes i just fitted have 22,000 hours, they show no wear and are considerably sharper.
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Post by mastertech on Mar 14, 2015 16:00:47 GMT -5
Well that is great news. Keep us updated and post some pics if you like.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 14, 2015 23:00:22 GMT -5
Yeah mate, ill get to it soonish, got a fair bit on the go with trying to get ready to build.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 24, 2019 0:54:43 GMT -5
So i should update this,
It IS the controller that is faulty, it is still faulty, Gregstv did some work on it ages back and we thought he had it nailed, but after about 20 hours running it died again same issue.
Dont know if he did replace the regs or not, i know he fixed a lot of rough work done around the caps and put much better ones in, but that hasnt solved it.
Cant be too much wrong, it runs ok and everything works when it is working, just seems to croak after a while.
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