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Post by thelasttubewarrior on Feb 1, 2018 22:55:39 GMT -5
I'll be doing most of my focus tests with only the green tube turned on, or one tube at a time, and then turn them all on and see how it works out after carefully converging the unit.
I'll use my meter to calibrate to a defined output level (and color balance, 6500K white point) and use that as the basis for before and after comparison.
Part of the reason I prefer a lower light output, besides saving tube life, has been because I find focus blooming to be very objectionable. So the new yokes MAY, I hope, give me a higher output level with good focus. If I can get that then I will run at a brighter APL because at this point, hey, why not? I'm not exactly short on spare tubes. If I stripped my projectors I could easily cough up a dozen sets. In truth I don't run the projector very much anyway. I only use mine for movie nights, and never for regular TV viewing. Any month the PJ gets 12 hours on it is a heavy use month.
I'm thinking a target of 11 FT-L. Does that sound reasonable to you guys?
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Post by jbmeyer13 on Feb 2, 2018 9:26:54 GMT -5
Based on your usage that equates to 150-hours/year and at that rate your set of tubes (even at 15ftl) would last you 50-years. 11ftl has enough dynamic range to make this a worthwhile exercise. Go for it.
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Post by stridsvognen on Feb 2, 2018 9:53:15 GMT -5
Ill say below 10fl is no good for HD material, and 12fl is the magic point to reach, Justin we calibrated your setup to 14fl, and you can turn it up to 17fl, you might share your subjective visual experience.
Its not the peak lightoutput itself that is important, but the more light output, the better graduation you get out of black, so for those that care about low level shadow details, its important to get as high a output as possible. 2nd is the dynamic range in the image.
At my current setup im douing 11fl on a 110" neutral gain screen with LUG tubes and GT17 lenses, its not to much, and when i get some time again ill shift to LCP tubes, both to gain some light output, and i find them to have better color uniformity.
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Post by racerxnet on Feb 2, 2018 13:48:24 GMT -5
I still have 3 new LCP tubes for the 9 inch Marquee available.
Mak
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Post by stridsvognen on Feb 2, 2018 15:00:32 GMT -5
I just bought 4 new tubes last time i was over there, had to as i got a brand new blue LCP tube for 50$ on ebay, so rebuild a 9518 sim with those tubes, now i have 1 new 9543 and 2 absolutely stunningly mint with new LCP tube projectors stored in Gregs basement in Indiana.. The biggest problems these days is not to find the tubes, but that i bought shitloads of new or mint projectors for pennies, like the 6 newly retubed, and 1 brand new spare in texas for 450$, so what is a set of new tubes worth.. I still buy them if i find them for the right price, doubt ill ever use them, other than rebuilding sim projectors.. Have 1 left with burned out tubes. Funny thing is i found another new blue LCP in germany short after for 56 euro. Whats not to like about that.
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Post by thelasttubewarrior on Feb 2, 2018 16:26:45 GMT -5
Isn't it kind of funny that in the dying days of CRT projection, those of us who are left seem to not be lacking for good tubes, when just a few years ago good tubes were expensive and in short supply?
Including the P43 fast phosphor tubes, my total stock of new condition 9" tubes, including what's in my projectors, is about 14 sets plus 10 extra greens and about 15 extra reds. Plus I have a few blues that are really good enough for all but the most truly critical, obsessive-compulsive viewer.
I've noticed that LUG tubes have a color uniformity issue, too, but I am of the opinion that it's due to their finer beam spot size.
I'm sure that you've noticed, on the blue tube anyway, that changing focus changes light output. I think that the LUGs have the same attribute for red and green, too, and the smaller beam spot size makes it noticeable.
I really don't think that the three focus corrections per scan line are really enough to get truly optimal focus across the whole raster. It's like trying to align two different curves exactly. The current parabola of the focus drive signal does not quite match the length of travel variation of the electron beam from edge to center to edge.
This causes me to wonder if maybe focus could not be further improved by replacing the ramp generator circuits with something a little bit more precisely tailored to the application.
I'm wondering what could be done with a really fast arbitrary waveform generator.
Hmmm....that just might be an interesting project. Not that I could do it myself.
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Post by stridsvognen on Feb 3, 2018 4:22:57 GMT -5
And that was pretty much exactely my point.. The yoke is not the real problem here, but the controle of the yoke. Its possible to focus super sharp on a standard Marquee, but just not uniformly across the screen.
Now there is also a compromise to be made when setting focus, as you dont have optimum focus for bothe resolution and line sharpness, or high and low output, so if you focus for max sharpness on a cross hatch pattern with 100% ire lines, you will have overfocused finer details at lower output, you can test this using the DVE disc and toggle between the geometry pattern and pixel phase pattern. I belive that has to do with the way the phosfor reacts. The only real difference i see between the LUG and LCP is the phosfor, the LUG having finer phosfor grain, wich is also why i guess they are harder to controle at higher drive levels, the bit more rugh phosfor in the LCP tubes seems to be able to handle better all around, except it looks a bit more rough on screen when displaying 1 color, not that i really can see it while watching a movie, but im left with the feeling the LUG looks a bit more smooth, then comes the other parameters, and in the end i think i prefer the LCPs overall performance.
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Post by thelasttubewarrior on Feb 3, 2018 9:54:08 GMT -5
While I do agree that the focus circuitry does not have the fine accuracy needed to achieve best focus across the whole tube face at once, that by itself does not account for the lack of consistent focus as contrast is raised, which I have found is very much a variable that changes from one Marquee to the next. I know that power supply integrity playes a part in it, as recapping an old supply has made very obvious changes for the better in this regard. And I know that different focus yokes have also shown improvement, which I attribute to a more finely shaped and controlled magnetic field.
I have also noted a problem that I don't fully understand yet but it most definitely involves certain neck cards. When using contrast modulation to even out the screen brightness, this problem appears most readily in affected units. The problem manifests as a dramatic loss of focus, perhaps better described as flaring, which first appears at the outer edge of the raster and as contrast increases, the flaring area moves inward toward the center. It seems to be correlated with total drive levels. (Contrast modulation drive + contrast drive) Reducing contrast modulation reduces the flaring in the selected zone on the raster. Reducing overall contrast reduces the flaring, sending it outwards.
I haven't figured out what causes that problem but it follows specific neck cards so something has gone weak or bad on those neck cards. Most likely it's capacitors.
Still waiting for two kinds of connectors to arrive so I can finish up the adapter cables.
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Post by stridsvognen on Feb 3, 2018 11:06:30 GMT -5
The caps in the marquee ir rarely a problem, sure if they are dead, but thats mostly a issue on the later VDC build projectors where they used super shitty caps, the Electrohome machines seems to last forever except the 2 caps on the neckboard if they have a lot of hours on them, LVPS really dont do much difference new old or recapped, but the videochain itself, wich is totaly untransparent what is what, there is so many revisions and neckboard models that its a pain, and the vim is equally different from year to year, the latest beeing the worse, and that have more effect on blooming than anything else, and videochain issues should not be adressed by tampering with the focus systm, thats simply dealing with it the wrong way around.
I spent a lot of time matching neckboards for optimum performance, and found that around 50% of the neckboards from 1996 to 2003 did not pass the performance test, wich includet bandwidth handeling gain and in cases streaking. And all neckboards build after 2003 is not worth wasting 30 sec on.
I have recapped boards and PS here i have used to swap in and out, and to my frustration it was pretty much waste of time, i do know DIY people love the cap mods, as i guess thats all they really can do and feel they did something, but i find that Gjakys efforts are far more effective and on target, and he has a super professional atitude towards the hole mod thing.
So personally i role my eyes everytime i read about change the caps here and there.. I experienced Chris Stephens HVPS mods that introduced heavy crosstalk, like WTF how can nobody have noticed. Thats the level most mods have, so like i mentioned before, go find a old Marquee Electrohome build, actually 1996-1997 might be the best ones ever, from there it got messy.
And mixing any of that with MP mods is just a total disaster, as he have no clue how to measure or test that the boards are even worth a mod, and 99% of his work leads to shorts or simple mistakes that result in a never ending cycle of shipping around the world.. Sure multiple members can confirm that..
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Post by thelasttubewarrior on Feb 3, 2018 16:53:38 GMT -5
I remember now....I was told that one of the causes of streaking is the two axial lead inductors at the top edge of the neck card to either side of the main connector. Easy way to tell: If the ends are brown, those inductors need replacing. They WILL eventually turn brown from heating.
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Post by gjaky on Feb 3, 2018 17:06:05 GMT -5
I remember now....I was told that one of the causes of streaking is the two axial lead inductors at the top edge of the neck card to either side of the main connector. Easy way to tell: If the ends are brown, those inductors need replacing. They WILL eventually turn brown from heating. This was told by MP, I'd take it with a grain of salt...
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Post by thelasttubewarrior on Feb 3, 2018 19:08:18 GMT -5
No, I never heard MP say that. I learned it from someone else who's repaired literally hundreds of neck cards out of Marquees used in simulators. The guy worked for L3, the prime contractor that built the TOFT simulator systems. He wasn't at all interested in modifying the cards for better performance, just in keeping them running right for acceptable performance.
I believe an upgrade to those inductors is probably not a terrible idea.
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Post by stridsvognen on Feb 4, 2018 5:39:59 GMT -5
The streaking is rare on standard Electrohome boards, but i seen it on lot of the MP boards, along with incresed crosstalk, and early blooming, so replacing a component to something better, how is that defined.. Price, specs, or test in the specifik aplication, covering all the complexity of it.? I think its helthy not to fix something that is not broke, i know thats not how DIY modding works, and im sure thats why its almost always worse than standard, and to do mods ull have to do multiple tests, measurements, wich is hard to define, and even testing hundreds of hours you might still miss a issue you notice much later. Thats the reason i basically leave most of the marquee original, and concentrate about the main issue, the videochain, i simply miss seeing positive results on various mods on the remaining boards. Now a dead or bad cap is not mod work, its maintenance.
And when arguing mods in a public space like this, it would make sence to present evidence, like measurements pictures and so on, to keep it a notch above never ending Bla bla bla...
So why dont we all who like to play around with the focus issue start agreeing on a pattern, a meter and then post some pictures of that specifik pattern at specifik light output, wich might turn out verry differently.
And chris when you keep bringing up the addet resolution like 3K, try be a bit more specifik how and why u think it should work, from simple math/ bandwidth, and how ull manage to add bandwidth and maintain the projectors capability to resolve the source on a pixel/ bit dept level, and how u thought about douing the hole format convertion of colorspace, dynamic range, and pixel and bit resolution, without compromising the quality of the source to much.
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Post by thelasttubewarrior on Feb 4, 2018 9:23:29 GMT -5
Realistically anything above 2K is a pipe dream and we all know it, but a guy can dream, can't he?
As for that inductor, all I suggest for an upgrade is one that runs cooler and won't turn brown and become resistive after a few thousand hours of operation. Which seems to be what happens to the original axial leaded ones with white bodies.
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Post by stridsvognen on Feb 4, 2018 11:54:12 GMT -5
Realistically anything above 2K is a pipe dream and we all know it, but a guy can dream, can't he? As for that inductor, all I suggest for an upgrade is one that runs cooler and won't turn brown and become resistive after a few thousand hours of operation. Which seems to be what happens to the original axial leaded ones with white bodies. Dreaming is ok, but ill think aplying some filters sometimes would be ok, and venting those dreams have others run around thinking it sounds like a great idea, without having a clue how the basics work.. Now i would dream we had 16:9 tubes, or even better anamorph lenses, but i know its not possible, or realistic, so its not something i post once in a while for everybodt to get all exited about.. You venting the higher resolution has ben up multiple times with the same general outcome, so im just curious what kind of logic you apply to it while your writing those posts over and over again. So ill beg you to go get some experience with high pixel clock setup on the marquee, or any CRT for that matter, and when you have that experience and very experienced with high pixelclock setup and calibration, you might discover a hole new world of challenges to the CRT game. And by high pixel clock i mean around 200Mhz from a video source, preferable 1080P 72hz with a H total of 2400-2450
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