|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on May 3, 2015 2:22:40 GMT -5
Hi all, im interested to know if there is any giveaway signs that a "new" P19LUG tube is really a new one and not a rebuild, I have 3 brand new ones here that I have just pulled out of the box, and there are a couple slight differences.
Firstly, the Green, it is obviously a rebuild as it is a Simulation grade tube from Greg.
The red, it had no Panasonic label on it at all, just a very small red dot to suggest it is a red tube. The neck is ever so slightly fatter.
The blue, it does have a Panasonic label, and the Barco label is stuck over the Panasonic text as per normal, however the label is looking a little worn, and the anode hole has clearly had a lead in there before. There is no noticeable evidence of silicone anywhere around the tube. It too seems to have a very slightly fatter neck, as with the red, I had to back the screw clamps out a touch further to get the neck hardware on.
|
|
|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on May 3, 2015 2:38:49 GMT -5
All the while, im tossing up whether I should bother replacing the red, there is nothing wrong with the original, and the glycol in there is fine, although its done a bit over 7,000 hours. Zero visible wear.
|
|
|
|
Post by gjaky on May 4, 2015 0:36:06 GMT -5
Hi Case, Check the tube bell color, if it is gold-yellow-brown it is a used/rebuilt tube, if it is silver it is new. The yellowing is a consequence of x-ray exposure that is non reversibe, and happens after several hundred hours of use.
|
|
|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on May 4, 2015 1:31:38 GMT -5
Well strangely enough the green one is all silver inside, the other two are goldy coloured. Bloody good chance theyre not new ones then id say.
|
|
|
|
Post by mastertech on May 4, 2015 8:47:43 GMT -5
I wouldn't worry about changing the red tube if it has no wear and still has good emission. If you can achieve a good white balance without excessive adjustments then it should be fine.
|
|
|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on May 4, 2015 17:07:15 GMT -5
Yeah red tube is fine, it seems a pain in the arse to cut out a perfectly good tube to throw in something that could be a rebuild.
The red in the set at the moment has minor contamination, so ill throw it into that housing i reckon.
|
|
|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 23, 2016 2:31:10 GMT -5
So another RED tube here, apparently a P19LUG sim grade but no sticker on it either, and looking at the gun connection inside the tube neck it does look very very simular to the green simulation grade tube I have here.
Is there any way I can tell what it is?
|
|
|
|
Post by tschaeikaei on Mar 23, 2016 15:21:02 GMT -5
Afaik (and I've done some research and spoke to different people) a rebuild tube uses a new phosphor coating (and aluminum backing),
and a new electron gun, which is most likely the high rez- gun if you're rebuilding tubes today. And of course the aquadag (conductive anode coating) is also new.
So everything that is kept is the glass and maybe the outer carbon conductive coating.
So in my opinion it is actually better to have a rebuild tube than a NOS one. You'll get state of the art electron gun systems and a new (maybe better quality) phosphor coating.
What should be the advantage using a NOS vs. a rebuild?
The production process is also exactly the same.
Regards, Julian
|
|
|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 23, 2016 15:51:37 GMT -5
So you reckon throw it in and hope for the best eh?
|
|
|
|
Post by tschaeikaei on Mar 23, 2016 16:23:38 GMT -5
I don't get the point why you want to change that red tube. If phosphor and emission are good, why would you change it?
The "3 new out of the box" is a RGB set? G and or B in the projector are worn?
I'd cut the worn tubes (regardless of color) out of their housings and silicone into the housings whatever tube you need.
But I don't think that rebuild is in any case worse than original panasonic.
Would you mind telling the whole story? I still don't get why you want to stop using a good tube.
Regards, Julian
|
|
|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 23, 2016 17:06:20 GMT -5
Because my spare green is a simulation grade, and my spare blue had some serious arcing issues, id rather put in 3 brand new tubes and have the projector work perfectly as it should.
At this point ive got a good red fitted with 7,800 or so hours on it, works well etc, the blue and green currently fitted have around 23,000 hours on them so the machine is obviously driving settings up quite high and this affects focus, the focus yokes need to be as far forward as you can get them, and the midpoint focus numbers are still around 40. Beam spot is still not perfect, and although there is no serious wear, the phosphor surface is still uneven especially on green.
I cut the 23,000 hour red out of its housing yesterday, it had some minor contamination anyway so it was of little use, but if im going to the trouble of gluing in another tube i want to be reasonably sure its going to be very good, id rather have something certain in there instead of something semi unknown.
This red is all silver around the bell where in insides are visible, so its not all goldy coloured like a used tube.
|
|
|
|
Post by tschaeikaei on Mar 23, 2016 17:37:10 GMT -5
So why don't you use the 7800h red with the new green and blue?
So you save the new red for future use. If you're using the 7800h red together with a new green and blue and use a red filtered c-element,
i could imagine they'll all wear equally fast. That's kind of what i would want and expect.
But i think your real problem at this point is that you don't have spare housings, right?
I would not think a new tube is better than a rebuild, the sim grades are rebuild, too.
And i think Eisemann gets them from Lexel, but i'm not sure.
Do you mean arcing inside the blue tube?
Contamination means dirty glycol?
Since you opened another thread on nearly the same topic, where you ask if it would make sense to use a blue sim grade.
Why should a finer focus blue tube (that's what sim grade means, right?) be of any use.
You'll defocuss the blue anyways. And you're not gonna see that on the screen.
So if you are making the focus worse on purpose, why would you spend lots of money for a finer focus blue.
Don't get me wrong, i did not use sim grades myself, but i cannot think of any advantage on blue.
Neither of red as my red tubes always were a bit sharper then the green of the same projector and the green tube determines the overall focus.
That's why it is in the middle (no flapping needed) and why people spend so much time on tweaking the green.
I think the reason the red tubes being sharper is that they're driven with lower current and this causes less spotsize and less gaussian blur (electron beam hitting the phosphor).
Regards, Julian
|
|
|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 23, 2016 18:57:50 GMT -5
Yes arcing inside and outside the blue. The other blue has contamination in the neck, as does one of the reds.
|
|
|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 23, 2016 19:25:51 GMT -5
The currently fitted blue has almost 23,000 hours on it, and while it has no visible wear like the green does ( which is very light wear ) it does require a fair bit of mucking around to get good colour balance.
If fitting the new simulation grade green in the set with a 23,000 hour blue and a 7,800 hour red is a good safe option, id do that, but im not convinced it is. I could also install the new red so both red and green are new, but im still stuck with a very high hour blue.
There is more to the simulation grade tubes than just the sharper beam spot, they apparently also use different phosphor with a smoother grain and give a brighter output.
That has all been alleged, and this is why i ask the question in regards to whether or not i should buy 2 more simulation tubes.
I have 3 spare housings, the sim green is mounted in one, i removed the 23,000 hour red from one, and the other is holding the blue tube ive had issues with. Its a 5 minute job to cut a P19 out of a Barco housing using a steak knife, there is no damage done to the housing and its very easy. Sealing them in is a bit more tricky than with NEC housings where they seal on the front face, but the Barco housings are probably the best designed due to the coolant being all the way around the whole face including up the sides, others dont have that. The lens flapping on the Barco housings is also much better than others.
|
|
|
|
Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 23, 2016 19:38:53 GMT -5
Im sure youve probably seen the image ive posted, but here it is again as well as another one:   So you can see that ive managed to achieve pretty good balance, but it took hours to get the green and blue looking half way decent, where as the red took about 30 minutes to be spot on and sharp corner to corner. |
|
