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Post by jeremy on Jun 22, 2015 10:20:35 GMT -5
I have not heard anything yet that would make me think it is not repairable.  Excellent, I'll keep you posted  |
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Post by jeremy on Jun 29, 2015 2:49:17 GMT -5
Okay, so, there might be light at the end of the tunnel (or lens  ) eventually! The board cleaned up very nicely, almost wouldn't know it was damaged if the greenish blue coating didn't chip away on some of the copper foils. So that's good After I cleaned it this is what it looks like:  Without looking at the service manual I did some basic checks on obvious parts and didn't find anything bad off the bat so I went ahead and installed it, put a new fuse in, plugged it in and... well it blew again, BUT there was no smoke, sparks, or any noises, so that made me feel good despite it not powering up. Took the PSU back out, did some checks, with the help of the schematic this time, and found the following parts to be shorted: D200 - AC leads are shorted D206 - is shorted IC200 - is partially defective likely due to above shorted parts R205 - is shorted So I looked up the parts, can get IC200 from ebay, D206 and D200 from mouser (faster than ebay!), and R205 I have on hand. I couldn't find anything else bad, surface mount or otherwise, so I am hoping that's as far as power was able to travel before it completely lost AC altogether. And on another plus, the main input board which is right on the bottom (or top if PJ is ceiling mounted) was completely untouched by water thankfully. Water traveled down the outside of the casing into the bottom vents under the PSU which is where the water did its damage. I do suspect that it may have worked if it would have dried out and not rusted & oxidized before being powered on. All and all, I am pretty confident the results will be positive if I can get full power again! I'll keep everyone posted |
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Post by mastertech on Jun 30, 2015 9:54:44 GMT -5
Most of that entire circuit is for the 3.3v standby supply. You could probably inject an external 3.3vdc to that connector and the projector should run. This way you can see if there is anything else wrong or not.
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Post by jeremy on Aug 30, 2015 16:47:00 GMT -5
Just an update on this projector for those who are following the thread: I finally got a few of the parts I need in, I'm still waiting for a surface mount diode that's back ordered until the middle of September, but I don't quite remember if it was bad or if I just ordered it to replace the old one since there isn't a lot to the circuit itself, so I'm going to put the new parts in and do some checks then and go from there |
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Post by jeremy on Aug 30, 2015 16:49:54 GMT -5
Most of that entire circuit is for the 3.3v standby supply. You could probably inject an external 3.3vdc to that connector and the projector should run. This way you can see if there is anything else wrong or not. Never saw this post from you MT! I wish I had a variable power supply here or even a spare computer PSU at the moment (which I don't quite oddly, since I always try to keep a couple on hand for testing things). Though it would be nice to know if there's anything else wrong with the machine, I'm not in a rush to find out, I have so much other stuff going on at the moment that I'm happy to have the couple of open days to work on this that I do  |
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Post by jeremy on Oct 4, 2015 9:05:16 GMT -5
So I figured it was time to update on how this is going. I have since gotten all the parts I needed for the power supply. I put them in and the projector now receives power, and the standby/on LED illuminates!
Now here's the new problem. When I power it up, the standby LED turns to blinking green as would be normal. As soon as the entire projector "kicks in" the projector shuts down and the standby LED blinks red 6 times. I'm able to power the projector back on right after the 6 red blinks, but the cycle continues as just described.
The service manual has nothing on this issue that I could find, and the user manual just specifies that its a power issue, and to unplug the projector for 10 seconds, then plug it back in; if the problem persists contact Sony.
So I am unsure where to go from there. I know for a fact it is NOT the ballast+ballast PSU, disconnecting that section does nothing different during power on. And as far as I can tell, the PSU didn't have any shorts or open components that I could find, which is now where I'm at, and not sure where to go next.
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Post by mastertech on Oct 5, 2015 19:27:50 GMT -5
Have you tested all the P/S output rails for correct voltage?
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) eventually! The board cleaned up very nicely, almost wouldn't know it was damaged if the greenish blue coating didn't chip away on some of the copper foils. So that's good
