klo
New Member
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Post by klo on Jun 10, 2015 21:35:46 GMT -5
Nope Case I need the connector first, I have just BNCs at home. Plan to arrange one in the the next days anyway. If it works I just need a Moome, and no repairs required. I will follow your suggestion and will not ship it to repair before testing port 3. or... I will practice a bit with my soldering iron before  |
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Post by mastertech on Jun 10, 2015 21:46:21 GMT -5
Oh roger that, i didnt see it anywhere. Did he test with a Port 3 card?? Not that I am aware of. |
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jun 10, 2015 23:56:22 GMT -5
I have a MOOME i will contemplate selling for the Barco, but youll need to test Port 3 first on your switcher anyway.
What country are you in? I might have a spare 15-9 adapter cable for Barco Port 3 here.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2015 3:16:53 GMT -5
Why not just keep the 1209s switcher? I always used it. The video path is the same.
The squizing I had to and as Casey explained it is two electrolitic capacitors on the small board on the smps. They do the standby and need to be replaced after many years.
I know that cine 8 splitter and quad work as I have them now.
Did you check the switcher for bad solder points? Can you make a photo of the burned part?
Congrats with the repair!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2015 3:56:42 GMT -5
For the squizing you need techbulleting: Barco_Info-T_396__Stand-by-voltage-9V-drops-heavily-due-to-heating-problem.pdf but I do not know how to add pdf to a post. So I made a screenshot of the capacitors that need to be replaced. The third arrow to the right is a diode that in my case needed not to be replaced. www.barco.com/tde/(0050620842442402)/396/01/Barco_Info-T_396__Stand-by-voltage-9V-drops-heavily-due-to-heating-problem.pdf This is the subboard on the SMPS.  Check the C numbers! C451 I can read on the picture the other one should be C450. Replace with 105 degrees by example panasonic low esr capacitors. |
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Post by hulio on Jun 11, 2015 4:40:10 GMT -5
Case, do You know which models share quads and Splitters with the Max ? Im not sure on part numbers mate no, Hulio will know that bit. Quadrupler R763368 is BR909/Cine 9/Cine Max specific, regarding the part number. You won't find it in other projectors. However, some people reported good results with other so called "new style" quads ( without the focus lead ), saying that Barco changed the part nr. just from a comercial point of view ( they could charge more ). The splitter R762718 is to be found in Cine 8 and 808S series too, but they are all pretty interchangeble. Take care you use one with that fusible resistor on the mini-board. Old splitters don't have that. Switcher board R7627195 is shared with Cine 8 only but, like Redfox said, the one from 1209S will work too. The daughter-board of the power factor corrector R7631452S is shared with Cine 8 equipped with PFC too, along with the communication interfaces in front and back of the projector. That's all, relevant CineMax spareparts are not used by other projectors. I know is frustrating with a non working PJ but it's a hobby and when it will be running, because YOU made that happened, the satisfaction is huge. So don't give up. For now, try what Case sugested to rule out a broken switch card. When and if you are sure is broken, i can send you a working spare-one if you wish. You can try it, free of charge, and if it works and you decide to keep it, we'll make a deal. Else, just send it back to me. I hink i have a RGB to DB9 cable too, for port 3. We still don't know where you are located.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 11, 2015 5:00:30 GMT -5
I can report that a new style quad from a cine 8 with the focus lead works too. I did take the focus blok from the cine 8 with it as it would be dangerous without that block.
Thanks for the info Hulio I did not know that of the daughter board on the pfc.
One more tip for klo because you have a similar Cine Max as me. After some time I found that I would get stripes/lines in the sky that where discoloured. It turned out that I had to adjust the 17,3V to something like 18V or higher to get rid of it. You will also have difficulties doing the astig when the voltage is to low. When you defocus and put contrast up there will be black horizontal bars. This 17,3V point is found on the SMPS see the service manual on this board.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jun 11, 2015 5:16:14 GMT -5
If the SMPS is getting a bit iffy, youll get a reasonable difference in voltage on the 17v line between full black and full white, so check both.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jun 11, 2015 5:19:13 GMT -5
The quads i got from Greg Eisemann are brand new, they have the focus wire but its cut short and the end boot put back on and filled with silicone. Works perfect.
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klo
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by klo on Jun 11, 2015 18:28:42 GMT -5
Thank You very much guys. What a wonderful group of helpful enthusiastic members. Now I can truly understand why Case invited me here.  Today has been a crazy day here. I promise to keep You informed with my progress in the next days. You asked where I'm located. I live in the north of Italy, close to Monza. |
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jun 11, 2015 22:39:26 GMT -5
No worries mate  Glad we could all help  |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2015 6:49:08 GMT -5
He one question on flashing. Is flashing in generally realy a risky buisiness? Does it go wrong often? I have had one device going bad during flashing in the past. Is flashing a controller risky? Can the rom chips be replaced in case of faillure?
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Post by mastertech on Jun 15, 2015 11:44:54 GMT -5
Generally speaking, flashing is not a dangerous procedure. Millions of devices are probably flashed on a daily basis. But like in anything, there is the possibility for something to go wrong.
But if your projector is in proper working order, you have the correct cable, software and flash program, proper running flashing device and no power outages during the process then there should be no problem doing a flash.
Even a failed flash can many times be reflashed successfully.
But, there is that very, very slim chance of a failed flash rendering the controller non operational. Can the chip then be replaced? Well that depends on a few factors. Is the new chip blank? Is the firmware flash also the main flash for chip function? If not can the main flash be installed and where would the main flash come from?
These are the unknowns. And also concerns that should only be worried about after a failed chip. You may never see one.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Jun 15, 2015 16:40:28 GMT -5
You need a proper serial port too, dont use a USB adaptor.
If you have CineMAX or Cine 9 software allready on the controller i wouldnt bother flashing it unless you have an issue.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 15, 2015 17:28:30 GMT -5
I am getting that splitpack and it seems I need a seos controller to boot it. I was wondering if seos firmware would be enough or if I could flash the seos controller with cine max software for userfriendlinesh. I will know more when I have the split pack and can try some things.
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