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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Oct 2, 2015 16:50:21 GMT -5
Its a useless menu anyway, so hardly worth worrying about.
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Post by hulio on Oct 2, 2015 17:55:23 GMT -5
Not a must have menu but useless i won't say. Last time i checked with a multimeter, the numbers were pretty accurate.
The chassis is real protective designed, so you'll get a scanfail or HDHT anyway if some voltages are out of wack but if the differece between +v and -v on the same board is too big, can be a sign that some components are slowly aging or some adjustments highlighted in the service manual should be checked ( e.g. 17,3v and 69v on SMPS, 6v fillament voltage on RGB amplifiers etc. )
I find it strange that there is no menu in there. Are both controllere ex Skyvision ?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Oct 2, 2015 21:11:11 GMT -5
No, only one is, the other is the original CineMAX controller i updated.
The SkySkan never did show the voltage menu, the CineMAX did. I put 2.21 on both, neither have the menu, and i dont miss it.
You cant tell a fair bit from using a meter on the 17v test point, a buggered SMPS with have a big deviation between a full white screen and a full black, where as a good unit will stay pretty solid.
The menu though i rarely bothered with since Greg Eisemann told me it was pretty useless.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Oct 2, 2015 21:12:38 GMT -5
What version did you put on? I have 2.22 here as well, but is it worth the effort of updating?
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Post by hulio on Oct 3, 2015 2:02:25 GMT -5
Also 2.21. One controller had BR909 v3.11 on it and the other i never new, it was a SEOS prodas dead controller i flashed in emergency repair modus ( jumper W3 in place ).
I think version 2.22 is also BR909 specific.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Oct 3, 2015 2:59:54 GMT -5
I flashed both with the jumper is place, mine wouldnt connect without that!
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Post by jaredjaric on Nov 5, 2015 4:10:22 GMT -5
Ok , Just swapped out the smps and the H def oard, still the same issue.Though it did started up nicely and was able to project video for a few seconds about three times. It seems it likes to start up when it is still cold but after successive shut downs , the pj just shuts down right after power up. i could rule out the eht ,smps and h def board at this point. I did notice the clicking noise coming mostly from the rgb video boards. And pulled out the rgb board, the voltage regulators were quite hot for something that was not used much. I will replace those 7905, 7805, 7912 7812 and report back later. Guys, hope anyone can help.am still having issues with this same Cinemax. it was not the controller board. Here goes: Clicking noises were arcing inside the splitter, after replacing the splitters the Pj would work for a few days. Then a new issue again , it goes into shutdown. Upon checking it was the second splitter. Then after replacing it,it was an eht board. after a third eht board. it was the quadrupler, after three quads , i am down to one good quad. What is causing all these, i swapped smps and h boards already, thinking something from the original pj is causing it. Hope someone could enlighten me , the Picture quality is quite good , but any new part i put in is good for three days only. |
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Nov 5, 2015 5:07:27 GMT -5
Were these all new parts and where did you obtain them?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2015 6:26:08 GMT -5
Are the high voltage leads clean? If there is black dust on them they might spark to the environment taking down quads and splitters.
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Post by jaredjaric on Nov 5, 2015 8:08:54 GMT -5
Were these all new parts and where did you obtain them? yes all parts and quads look clean, Most of it from Curt ,the last quad was from a 909 unit i just got from Curt. Quads had no bumps and no fine cracks, |
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Post by jaredjaric on Nov 5, 2015 8:12:34 GMT -5
Are the high voltage leads clean? If there is black dust on them they might spark to the environment taking down quads and splitters. All parts are nice and clean, Every time i swapped in these parts Pj would work nicely for about two or three movies then goes in to shutdown or the quads would go. I am now very familiar with a dying quadrupler. It always would sizzle and the picture would go out of focus then go blank. |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2015 8:24:20 GMT -5
I have had this once but with a Marquee. The focus disappeared and a crack was heared than it returned. I tink it was caused by an old HV lead on the blue tube but I guess you have no old HV leads on the tubes? I also know it happened when I set the contrast higher than usual. Do you run in boost mode perhaps?
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Post by jaredjaric on Nov 5, 2015 12:22:15 GMT -5
I have had this once but with a Marquee. The focus disappeared and a crack was heared than it returned. I tink it was caused by an old HV lead on the blue tube but I guess you have no old HV leads on the tubes? I also know it happened when I set the contrast higher than usual. Do you run in boost mode perhaps? I ran it at economy, the flyback turn overpoint at 130kHz and peaking at high frequency. Contrast at 50. These are adjusted at the cinemax menu page. |
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Post by mastertech on Nov 5, 2015 12:43:00 GMT -5
I would be testing all voltages coming into the EHT board. Just be careful.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2015 13:01:12 GMT -5
I would be testing all voltages coming into the EHT board. Just be careful. To my understanding that is the voltage that comes direct from the PFC. There is a measuring point on the PFC. I once measured there to see if I had the right voltage something like 380V dc if I remember well. The PFC has a current sense that adjusts this voltage. There could be a problem there. You need to measure M102. But it is next to grnd measure point. I would suggest soldering a wire. 
Some additional info: Mastertech do you agree that he could measure on the PFC instead on the EHT? The EHT is more difficult to acces I think. |
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