barco cine 9 setup advice

As Casey wrote. A Cine 9 is razor sharp. I found it to be a bit sharper than the digital beamers I have had. I noticed that on the subtitles as somehow the lenses make those a bit unsharp. A digital might have better resolution in levels like clouds in the sky but without the blacklevel all that resolution is useless.

I noticed your other thread and it seems to me you did only change the jumper wires in the connectors but you simple have to reverse the whole connector. Or did I misunderstand? If you did be carefull as with the grey wires wrong you might blow very serious things.

Yes flip the whole plug around.

thanks for the prompt reply casey. this is exactly what i did. i changed the grey wires only. the manual is so vague. hopefuly there is no damage to the set. i changed the wires back and flipped the plugs. now its the right orientation and it says fron/table! thank you again.

now to pour through your post about setting it up and walking through it.

i just quickly ran through the installation menu. i got upto the raster centering section. its hard to see the image. is it okay to adjust brightness to make it more visible? i also noticed my blue and red are larger than the tube. does the size of the raster come after centering? or cant you size the raster? sorry for the newbie questions. i have tomorrow off work and will pour through some more manuals and try learn more before i ask silly questions.


best regards,


justin

Ok, so there is a few ways you can attack this, one is to set the size of the raster on the tube face first, which you should probably do so you never go off the edges with the image til you know more about the process, and the second way is the way we do it when we are more experienced ( or the way I do it anyway ) and that is to display a test pattern from an external source that has a solid boarder around it so you can see the exact size the actual image will be within the raster.

You will have to do the latter eventually, but to start with it will be safer if you start with getting the raster set to the size you want the image on the tube face. Connect your source, turn the contrast down to about 20-30, and turn the brightness up until you see the rasters appear on the tube faces, but you look into the lenses, you don't want it too bright to see, just enough so you can look at it comfortably. Make sure there is about 5mm or so between the edge of the lit raster and the tubeface edges.

Later on you can then display either a test pattern or a movie scene that is bright all the way around the edge and adjust the image so it is about 5mm from the tubeface edges, the raster will now either touch or go over the edges, but there is no significant energy in that to cause damage to the tubes, and you blank that section off anyway.

When you set the image up within the raster, on a Barco you adjust H-PHASE to move the image left or right within the raster. The way I do mine is move the image toward the right side of the raster ( as looking at the screen ), not too close to the edge, but further to the right than left. This is done because the left edge of the raster tends to have some issues on a Barco at high resolutions such as 1920x1080p with standard timings. This isn't a real big issue, because you can get it far enough right that itll not be visible down the left edge.

What you want to do is move it right, and when you know which way that is on screen, look into the lenses, ramp up the brightness so you can see the raster lit around the image, and move it til its reasonably close to the edge. From there, you will set brightness back about 45-50, and contrast around 75-80, and look at the edges of the image for distortions or little curls or lines etc. Move the image left and right until it looks the best it can down both sides. No real easy way to explain that, but you will figure it out.

From there, you will move the raster via the raster shift menu, you only need to move the green, start with coarse, end with fine, and get it dead centre. the blue and red should follow, but if theyre not perfect, use the red and blue raster shift settings til they are. You can ramp up the size to get the image to the correct width on your tube faces, and id do all that with the contrast back down around 50ish, or youll wind up night blind when you look away.

The image does not have to be in the centre of the raster, but the image MUST be in the centre of the tube face. You move the image left and right within the raster to get the best and most stable result. Once the image is dead centre of that tube face, you have the best chance of getting even focus and even astig corner to corner.

If your green tube has wear on it, you may elect to keep the image size within that wear pattern or you will see uneven whites ( as well as any other colour using more than about 50% green ) in the unused area. This is because the unused area of phosphor will be brighter, and the brighter the green portion of an image, the more you will be likely to see it. Red wont be visibly worn unless the set was REALLY flogged on reds, and blue is pretty good on these too, and not really noticeable the way green wear is.

My green has around 22,780 hours on it at the moment, but only very minor wear due to that tube coming out of a set that was part of a 6 projector blend and only projecting a night sky with moving stars. With 3,300 hours on your set, id expect to see a bit of wear on your green, because it probably showed 3,300 hours of movies which are much brighter than night skies.

Its all your call on that part, even with wear on my other green, I ran correctly set up tubes and put up with the wear. You get greater brightness, the tubes tend to last longer, and potentially better resolution. Its not such an issue on a Barco, and even less on a Cine 9, but when you get real big with tubeface usage, you lose a small amount of astig accuracy and also focus towards the edges, but this is not really noticed. It is about the only thing a Barco has over an NEC, as they really were not designed with full tubeface usage in mind, although I ran my 9PG for 7 years before the convergence board finally croaked, and it ran red hot. The later PGs and the XGs improved there, but the Barcos don't seem to mind a full tubeface.

When the green image is all aligned and centre of the tubeface, if the projector is where it should be, the green image should fill the screen perfectly. If not, move the machine to the correct spot. You may need to tilt the back up a bit on your table, which is a good thing for less keystone. You can use even more phosphor.

Once that perfectly set up green image perfectly fills that screen, the projector is perfectly placed. When the red and blue images are perfectly centre of their tube faces and the sides line up with the green, the lenses are perfectly aimed. You never ever need to touch any of that again, regardless of what new sources you connect. ( you line up the image sides [ at about mid height ] with the red and blue images perfectly centre, because the middle of the red and blue images will NOT be the middle of their tube faces due to the off-angle projection so should not be used as a reference for aiming, and if you aim the lenses to line up the middle, you will see the image is off to one side on the tubeface after you set the convergence, and then you have to dick around with it to get it right, which is not ideal because you end up with settings being adjusted and others being adjusted the opposite way to correct other settings, it becomes a mess ).

To give you some idea of how my set is positioned in relation to the screen, ill post some pics.

First off here it is being installed for the first time, you can see there Aussie_Al up there with it, and itll give you some idea of how far down from my ceiling it is. The ceiling in my room is 3m at screen end, and 2.7 at the far end.



Here it is from another angle, the front is a bit higher than the rear, although hard to tell there.



Here is the 120" OZTheatre Majestic screen: