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Post by mastertech on Nov 15, 2015 10:13:29 GMT -5
After you mount and solder the new part to the pads that are left, you can take some of the wire that I suggested you buy and just solder a short piece from the leg to a point on the trace that is left. On the trace, you have to scrape the green off until it is copper. Take your time and get it nice and clean. Then put some solder on it before you put the wire there. Make sure the solder flows well onto the trace. Once the solder is well flowed onto the trace, then put the wire on it and melt it into the solder. Same on the leg of the ic. Put some solder on it first and then melt the wire into it.
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guptau
Junior Member
Posts: 90 
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Post by guptau on Nov 15, 2015 10:52:51 GMT -5
Can you show the part which is to be scraped and connected with pin3 with wire? Also, in earlier post you wanted me to connect pin3 from q7013 to pin5 of q7001 with a wire. To be clear, I need to connect pin3 of q7013 not only to the trace; I also need to connect it to pin5 of q7001, correct? Thanks. 
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guptau
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by guptau on Nov 15, 2015 17:05:36 GMT -5
I believe I have connected to the trace. I need to know do I still need to connect q70013(pin3) to q7001(pin5)? Thanks.
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Post by mastertech on Nov 17, 2015 10:34:41 GMT -5
Yes, that connection is still needed. It is only temporary though. It will be removed after the unit is repaired but make sure it is secure.
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guptau
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by guptau on Nov 17, 2015 10:57:40 GMT -5
Hi Mastertech, I was looking at the service manual. It seems to me that if we supply 5V at p7000, we should be able to find out if the MPU is working properly or not by measuring output voltages at strategic locations without integrating all OtheR boards. What do you think?
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Post by mastertech on Nov 17, 2015 11:14:13 GMT -5
P7000 already has 5v at it. This has already been established even though you did not test there directly. The reason for the jumper wire is 2 fold.
1) It turns on Q7013 to output 3.3v mpu
2) It feeds back 3.3v to the M power circuit which will also turn on the main power relay and activating all power circuits. We can then do some testing knowing all circuits should be powered.
You just have to remember that as soon as you plug it in everything is powered. You should hear the main power relay latch.
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guptau
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by guptau on Nov 17, 2015 20:30:02 GMT -5
I connected pin3(q7013) to pin5(q7001). Assembled everything. The pin10 connected to pin17 is 3.7V volts at P7501 (Display connection). I am not getting anything when I push the power button. The reading at 6601B 15,..,20 all are 0.
I checked q7013 and I do not believe it is working. The voltage at all pins are inconsistent. I may have to redo the IC replacement. |
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Post by mastertech on Nov 17, 2015 20:33:55 GMT -5
Do not replace it yet if you are not reading the 5v input on it.
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guptau
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by guptau on Nov 17, 2015 20:44:22 GMT -5
I am reading correct values on q7001 but not on q7013.
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Post by mastertech on Nov 17, 2015 21:00:44 GMT -5
if you do not have the 5v input on q7013 then you have a break in the trace. Both regulators have the same 5v input.
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guptau
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by guptau on Nov 17, 2015 21:13:28 GMT -5
Can you confirm the indicated areas are the traces for pin3 and pin5 of q7013? What does 'break in the trace' mean? Thanks.
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Post by mastertech on Nov 18, 2015 10:14:28 GMT -5
If you have your 5v at 1 red line you should have it at all red lines. They are all tied together. Look at the schematic you have. If you do not have 5v at all points then you have a break in a trace.  |
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guptau
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by guptau on Nov 18, 2015 18:55:30 GMT -5
Actually all those 4 points do have 4.95v. But none of the other pins have any measureable/ consistent voltage in q7013.
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Post by mastertech on Nov 19, 2015 0:33:19 GMT -5
That would be correct until you put the jumper wire in place.
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Post by stretch on Jan 19, 2016 20:00:31 GMT -5
I have the exact same problem as the original poster here (and started with the same thought- test the power supply).
Has this issue been definitively resolved? What was the repair? If I follow the discussion, it seems the problem was narrowed down quite a bit but never resolved.
If a resolution was found, I'd like to begin by seeing if the same part if faulty on my unit too. If not, I'm going to follow some of the earlier steps listed until my measurements diverge with the OP's results.
Thank you mastertech and guptau for the informative thread!
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