cine 9 psu/smps noise, and distorted image

Four screws and the side panel is off, then there is holes to access the quad nuts. Theyre a prick of a thing to remove at the best of times, but Barco sets are the best for parts in and out, very easy to swap boards. The quad and splitter are the only items that are a pain in the arse, especially while the set is on the ceiling, because the splitter has soldering involved, which takes some significant talent to do upside down.

The outer clear sheath is there to protect the HV lead from damage more so than anything else, it stops the lead rubbing against gromets etc within the set, apart from that it serves no real purpose. Its dielectric properties have no hope of stopping 34.5kV from leaking through.

The black shit in the quad is potting compound, inside there is a bank of capacitors, and a few other items, but nothing servicable, so dont ever attempt to pull it apart unless its known dead and youre curious, its just a waste of time.

Have a look at the EHT board too, down near the edge connector there is an inductor wrapped in heat shrink ( left side as you hold the board in your hand, parts side up, edge connector toward your body ) ive seen that part fail before, and itll look like its been very hot and the heat shrink will be brittle. If its like that, it needs to be replaced. Yours may be fine, but look anyway, its easy to spot.

The quad does look fine, but then again they generally do. Hard to see where they arc, and id reckon the metal mounting plate is one spot they do arc, youll never see it there. It is well worth your while contacting Greg and getting yourself a spare quad and splitter, he has brand new ones. DO NOT buy a used one. Youve been warned.

At this point we are no further than general speculation based on my own experience with 2 sets, and these visual check may indeed yield no results. That isnt a bad thing, because i reckon looking to these areas is worth the little bit of time spent.

Once you clear these items, put it all back together and fire up the set with that rear cover open, black meter probe to the chassis, red meter probe to the test point on the SMPS, it looks like a little metal hoop about 5mm high off the board, black plastic sheath around it below the little hoop. Post the result there, go into menus and select genlocked pattern, picture tuning, colour balance, then pick WHITE, you should have a full white screen. Test for 17.3v with that up. If its low, we'll move forward from there, if its 17-17.4v, its fine, turn off the white pattern and watch the voltage rise for about 10 seconds, if it goes way up, we'll address that. If you dont have a meter, you can use the voltage menu in the service header, but youll need an external pattern for that.

Might even be worth posting a pic of that menu for me with a full white screen ( wait 20-30 seconds for stable figures after white ) then full black, wait 20-30 seconds after going full black before getting the pic.

okay i looked at the eht again (i did come across your thread for the wobbly horizontal image, where you later found the fried inductor, but didnt know it was on the eht board.) i looked at the inductor and it looked fine (quite clean on one side, the other had a buildup of dust on the heat wrap.)

Where my finger is:



The pot to adjust 17v level is near the other end, blue body, white screw.

No idea mate, but you never know with cheap meters, i dont trust them as far as i can throw them. I used only Fluke or Brymen when i was still in the trade, but im not going to expect youll lash out $300 on a good meter.

redfox, i managed to make the smered image clear up in the bottom left side of the red tube (however, bottom right and top are the same still.) i used the manual astig adjustments on the back of the neck. theres fine blue marks where i presume the handles are supposed to line up?

theres two adjustments on each handle. i can swing it around the tube and then i can twist the handle.

after watching the video mentioned earlier, i understand astig is just making the dot on the test pattern displayed round. i have some serious flaring going on around the entire final image. what i cant wrap my head around is what i am supposed to do. my understanding is to get all mechanical adjustments as close as possible, and use midpositions for all electronic settings before i begin calibrating electronically. if i use electronic astig through the menus, it says to use the focus control on the remote to defocus the image. i dont understand why i do this. am i supposed to get the center astig perfect with mechanical handles? then use digital adjustments to fix the rest of the image?

i am struggling here. curts page about astig is confusing :S

If the astig is out, youll get bad flaring like that, it takes a bit of practice to get it right.