nashou
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Post by nashou on Dec 1, 2013 22:51:31 GMT -5
Ok Popped it in. red still Bright no Green now and blue is fine. I double checked the path for green with continuity and the resistance from the pins of U 103 to the tops of the resistors standing up. All is well. I think this is where voltages need to tested correct? Wont be able to test till tomorrow . Getting tired and do not want to mess up.  |
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Post by mastertech on Dec 2, 2013 10:19:28 GMT -5
I can't tell from your picture where the end of that red wire is connected. It should be connected to either R10 or pin 10 of U105. It's not looking like that and you would not have green tube output if so.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Dec 2, 2013 13:10:02 GMT -5
I can't tell from your picture where the end of that red wire is connected. It should be connected to either R10 or pin 10 of U105. It's not looking like that and you would not have green tube output if so. I had it to a through point that goes to pin 10. I then thought as you did and put it at r10 after just in case. same issue. Athnaasios |
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Post by mastertech on Dec 2, 2013 13:50:01 GMT -5
Ok, if all your connections are correct then this is what we can assume at this point. The red still being bright indicates a bad section of U105. But the no green now could indicate that the red channel was also damaged from what ever happened. This could mean R56, R55, U103. You could also check R9 value cause if it is off it may affect other channels. I would value test R55 and R56. If they are ok then leaving the jumpers in place, try an initialization again.
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Post by mastertech on Dec 2, 2013 13:51:14 GMT -5
Or U105 could be causing an intermittent issue with the green also.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Dec 2, 2013 15:01:09 GMT -5
One thing I noticed before I did the jump of red to green after I did the intilization. Red comes up with a bright flash first, and I think right before I hear relay clicks and right when HV comes up, then it would go off then come up again.
Then Blue came up and Green. But then after a shut down and restart the same thing would happen but Green would take longer, to come up compared to blue and both would slowly come up to
full brightness.
And of course no green now.
Not sure if that info will change the diagnostics here.
nashou
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Post by mastertech on Dec 2, 2013 15:17:07 GMT -5
No, it doesn't change much.
At this point there are only 3 things that could be causing the bright red, R9, R58 or U105. This we can be mostly sure of. Of course if any of those supply voltages are off who knows.
As far as the no green now, it could be R55, R56 (these are now being used for the green channel in your setup) or U105 also acting up on the green channel, or U103 or software.
If this was me, I would be checking those supply voltages. It only takes a few minutes to solder on a few wires, put it in and check them. If they are ok then I would value test all resistors that are in question. If they are ok, then I would change U105 and see how it ends up and go from there.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Dec 2, 2013 19:33:35 GMT -5
Well now we have a horse of a different color. Guess you didn't try adjusting that G2 before,lol. Could still be U105 but some more stuff comes into play. You have u103 as a possibility and you also have the +12v supply of u103 as a possibility along with some of that supply circuitry. U3 is where that 12v supply comes from and that is derived from the +15v supply. So this and its surrounding circuitry comes into play. Since all 3 are affected in some way the -2.5v supply also comes into play although less likely. So at this point you need to verify these voltages are there and correct before going further. U103-pin 1 = +12v U105-pin 4 = +15v U105-pin 11 = -15v R9,10 and 11 input side = -2.5v ok all the pins are ok. now the resistors on the input side to U105 are -2.5v On the output side they read R9 is +6.07 R10 is +1.8 R11 is +5.74 All of those resistors read 39.1K except R10 38.7k Athanasios |
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Post by mastertech on Dec 2, 2013 19:52:19 GMT -5
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Dec 2, 2013 20:10:34 GMT -5
All resistors are close in value.Some of the 301k are about 270k I just took all the jumpers off and one resistor i damaged the solder pads on the resistor itself so had to turn it over to get connection to solder pad on PCB.
those things are delicate.
So not sure where to go next. Not sure if I have any SMD resistors in that value to redo that test.
Now that all is back to stock want me to solder on the non -2.5v side of R9,R10 and R11 and get those voltages?
Also Green works fine now.
Athanasios
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Post by mastertech on Dec 2, 2013 20:30:49 GMT -5
Yes. I need to see something.
When you are testing these voltages also note that all tubes are outputting.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Dec 2, 2013 20:43:16 GMT -5
Yes. I need to see something. When you are testing these voltages also note that all tubes are outputting. Ok will solder to the other end of the -2.5 volt side and re measure the voltages . Nashou |
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Dec 2, 2013 20:52:11 GMT -5
Same voltages as before so now R9 is the 1.866 Green is the 6 and blue is the 5.7
You know I think i lowered the G2 on red very low!! Let me raise it to about 50, in fact I'll sett all G2's to 50 Should have done that from the get go.
One more thing, I find it odd that the marquee controller PC program can not operate the marquee, it wont give it a com port? Hmmm
Athansios
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Dec 2, 2013 20:57:22 GMT -5
Ok after adjusting G2's all to 50 they all read close , between 4.7 and 4.9 volts.
Sorry for the mess up.
I guess move onto the TL084 and measure those outs?
Nashou
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Post by mastertech on Dec 2, 2013 20:58:38 GMT -5
Well that would explain why there was no green when they were crossed. I guess you didn't remember me saying this:  |
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