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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 5, 2016 23:33:24 GMT -5
How hard to swap that chip?
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Post by gregstv on Mar 6, 2016 2:14:43 GMT -5
Peace of cake. I have a soldering team at work that would be amongst the best in the world.
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Post by gregstv on Mar 6, 2016 2:32:15 GMT -5
I think I need to redo the astig on the Blue. I am having trouble getting uniform defocus. I still have a couple of yellowish sections. All I did with the 808s was set everything for best astig, centre, top, bottom and all sides. then did the same with the focus adjustment. Put up a white screen and only needed to defocus the centre to get good grey scale tracking across the whole screen. Am I doing something wrong? |
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 6, 2016 3:24:50 GMT -5
Yeah, get the astig perfect with the rings, then perfect the rest, set blue focus perfect all over the screen, and it should defocus evenly.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 6, 2016 3:27:06 GMT -5
Ive not had an issue with mine when set right.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 6, 2016 3:43:30 GMT -5
The thing to remember with this set is to set all the mechanic adjustments as perfect as possible, know-how is pretty critical for perfect alignment on these.
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Post by gregstv on Mar 20, 2016 0:09:50 GMT -5
Did the video mods to the 919 that I did with the 808s + a few more. It defiantly helped reduce the noise. I have been checking what helps by looking into the blue tube. You can see like snow on moving pictures. With the mods this was reduced. If you look into all 3 tubes you notice the blue is the worst. Green is a lot cleaner and red is cleaner again. With the mods the blue is about where the green was and the green is as clean as the red. Its producing a very clean and smooth picture. I will post some screen shots soon. |
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Post by dummyload on Mar 20, 2016 6:08:25 GMT -5
Planning to do them to ,starting with the 22pf on the ad835's ,thanks for sharing the info.
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Post by gregstv on Mar 21, 2016 3:57:02 GMT -5
Pictures of the 2 22pf caps and the Gamma chip removed. |
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 22, 2016 2:41:32 GMT -5
What does that do after its done? Does anything not function correctly?
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Post by gregstv on Mar 22, 2016 4:14:46 GMT -5
Adding the caps reduced noise or snow on the screen. Still have a way to go but it does reduce the noise. Removing the gamma also helped reduce noise. Other than that I didn't see a problem. The internal gamma on the Barco wont work any more. Removing this chip is something Mike P did with his Barco mods as well. It would be easy to put it back if you want internal gamma adjustment.
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 22, 2016 7:58:21 GMT -5
When you say internal gamma do you mean the settings in the service menu? Blue slope etc? At the moment im relying rather heavily on those for colour balance due to the uneven hours on the tubes.
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Post by gregstv on Mar 22, 2016 14:55:34 GMT -5
Yes you would loose that adjustment. Not worth it in your case until you get better tubes. The other caps would still help with noise. I plan to make some more changes as I can still see noise or snow on the screen. The noise is only visible during moving picture. The paused picture looks very clean. I think this is the noise that Mike has been chasing on his Marquee
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 22, 2016 15:58:12 GMT -5
Yeah roger that, i wonder where the settings would default to with those chips removed?
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Post by Casethecorvetteman on Mar 23, 2016 7:23:45 GMT -5
Did you do any sort of mods to the switcher card?
What source and which input do you use?
If you dont have an internal MOOME for the Barco id very highly recomend it, its a great device. I have all 4 HDMI connectors run to the outside of the machine and i use 3 out of those 4. This way i dont need to run the PC or the OPPO through the H/K AVR to get the signal to the projector. I was using PORT 5 for the PC but my XRGB-3 no lag line doubler connects to there now for my game consoles.
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