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Post by mastertech on Jan 14, 2014 15:18:16 GMT -5
Ok, you need to be set on the 200 scale. The voltage potential is much higher then 20. Test again with unit turned on but only test the 2 ends of the cut wire. If you do not get a voltage then try using pin 3 of CP10 for ground and test again.
If you still do not get an voltage reading try probing CP10 and see if you get voltage readings on the other pins there. Again Use pin 3 in that connector for ground.
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Post by Spydermonkee on Mar 16, 2014 20:42:10 GMT -5
I also am having the same issue. When I cut the 8 pin it is still shutting off and doing it so fast I cannot check anything else.
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nashou
Unmoderated Off Topic
Tech in Training.....
Posts: 1,239 
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Post by nashou on Mar 16, 2014 21:51:15 GMT -5
I also am having the same issue. When I cut the 8 pin it is still shutting off and doing it so fast I cannot check anything else. I assume you had to remove the HDMI board as the Original Poster did. SO did you put that board back in and try to power up again with Pin 8 cut? Nashou |
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Post by Spydermonkee on Mar 17, 2014 17:38:22 GMT -5
Yes, I was able to cut the wire without taking any of the other boards off. I believe one of my rear surround sound speakers was hooked up wrong and that is what caused this problem.
I have since disassembled the unit to gain access to the lower board that the speaker connection is connected to. That may have been premature though.
But yes everything was still connected when I cut the 8 pin and the problem was still there.
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Post by mastertech on Mar 18, 2014 15:35:31 GMT -5
Spydermonkey. If you think you have a general idea of where the problem is then just go to the outputs and test them for any shorted legs.
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Post by cguy123 on Jul 1, 2014 12:28:59 GMT -5
Hi Mastertech,
I've got a pioneer vsx-1020 with a similar problem as described in this thread. Won't turn on and instantly starts flashing the advanced mcacc light red continuously. I followed your instructions here about cutting wire 8 on CP11, and then unplugged cp11 completely, with the same exact result, no power, nothing on the screen, just mcacc light flashing. Hoping you can provide some guidance of where to go and what to look for next.
Just fyi, all the boards are installed and plugged in correctly. I did try removing the input and logic boards to gain access to the power board at the bottom, and with the boards removed, the unit would power on briefly and then power off after a few seconds.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
EDIT: One other bit of info. I just tried doing a hard reset by 'press and hold the “TUNE ↓” and “MULTI-ZONE ON/OFF” keys for 5 seconds' and the unit did say 'Power On' on the display screen, and I heard a relay click on just before the display said that, only to have it power itself off in a couple of seconds. This happened with cp11-8 wire still cut.
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Post by mastertech on Jul 1, 2014 14:49:43 GMT -5
Hello cguy123, welcome to the forum. I just got back but have to run out again so I will look into this later today and respond.
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Post by cguy123 on Jul 1, 2014 20:14:06 GMT -5
Ok Thanks! Look forward to any help you can provide.
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Post by mastertech on Jul 1, 2014 20:39:48 GMT -5
Ok. I just looked over the schematics and yours is a different problem since you have a blinking MCACC led and not the PQLS as the OP had. So in your case, cutting that pin 8 wire would not make any difference. The problem comes from a different location.
So, the easiest thing to do at this point would be to just take your DMM on diode scale and test the output transistors looking for any shorted legs.
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Post by cguy123 on Jul 1, 2014 20:52:30 GMT -5
Do I need to unsolder the transistors first before I test them for shorted legs? I mean can I test them in circuit?
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Post by mastertech on Jul 1, 2014 21:02:44 GMT -5
You can test them in circuit. No need to remove. You are just looking for dead shorts.
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Post by cguy123 on Jul 2, 2014 14:43:32 GMT -5
OK, so I tested all the output transistors with my dmm on the diode setting and none of them are shorted (at least not to the point where I get an audible beep). So I went back and tested each leg with my dmm on the 20k ohm scale, and they all seemed to be about the same, but it's hard to say for sure because a few of them gave me a reading for a second or two then went open.
What else can I do to try and narrow this down?
Thanks again for your assistance.
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Post by mastertech on Jul 2, 2014 16:08:01 GMT -5
On the main board (the one with the IR in/out and SR in/out on it) locate connector CN5002. DMM on DC voltage, use a black speaker connect for the neg probe and test pins 4,5,6 and 7 of CN5002 and let me know what you get.
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Post by cguy123 on Jul 2, 2014 18:51:11 GMT -5
Ok, hope i don't sound dense, but I've looked everywhere for CN5002, and cannot find it. When you say the 'main board' are you talking the top one? that has most of the ic's on it? Or the lower board where the power supply circuit is? Or are you referring to the board in front of the unit where the display and front panel buttons are? I've looked everywhere and cannot for the life of me find anything labeled 5002. I did find cn5001 on the board with the output transistors, but that's as close as I've found.
Please advise.
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Post by jeremy on Jul 2, 2014 18:55:45 GMT -5
I believe when MT says mainboard he is referring to the very bottom board, or motherboard, that is attached to the bottom chassis. It should have a couple large capacitors on it and wires coming from the main power transformer
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