Post by tschaeikaei on Oct 27, 2016 9:23:02 GMT -5
Even tho convergence issues were the same before and after.
I would check those transistors to make sure they didn't short out.
they are not meant to go to ground.
I would check those transistors to make sure they didn't short out.
they are not meant to go to ground.
But i had the same issue with the other backside heatsink incl. all 3 boards. Read above, i swapped the whole thing.
The 25% focus thing is probably due to the age or more so the number of hours on the tubes.
Tube aging can be an issue, right. I don't exactly know how long these tubes have been running before
(it's a Spatz projector with reworked tubes), but well, phosphor looks good (very minor wear on the green only)
but that doesn't tell anything about the cathodes, you know.
BUT (C by Mr. Barclay); Usually, reworking tubes means completely new "system" (Wehnelt- Cylinder incl. Cathode,
Focus plates),new first anode and of course new aquadag and phosphor plus aluminium coating.
As far as i understand it, the only reused part is the glass body.
So in my opinion, a reworked tube is just as good as a new one. At least thats what i've been told.
Going to check OSD tube hours soon.
Focus yokes have always been all the way towards the front (phosphor, lenses) on my tubes.
Going to check again, but i've never thought about moving them backwards.
Btw: Why do you aim for 57 overall/ PIC 4 focus?
I have verified the convergence issue with my machines.
Thank you!
What can be observed, is that the displacement becomes more prominent the more
You move the adjustment box to the upper/lower edges of the grid. It isn't adjustable like the horizontal displacement.
It looks like the gain for the vertical convergence amplifier is just a bit too large. See the pictures that I took for reference...
You move the adjustment box to the upper/lower edges of the grid. It isn't adjustable like the horizontal displacement.
It looks like the gain for the vertical convergence amplifier is just a bit too large. See the pictures that I took for reference...
Did you correct your horizontal displacement sometimes in the past? In the pictures, the horizontal wave is always shifted massively to the right).
That's what you can correct via the convergence timing menu for every color).
(super duper ultra secret menu)
The effect is not that heavy (talking about vertical shift now) as it is in my case (1056*800 60p). But i tried other resolutions (i think you're running 1080p60)
and on higher resolutions the effect gets smaller (just like in your pictures).
So, i'd like to say that the vertical shift is normal. Horizontal can be corrected in the menu and should then be fine, too.
You know, i also have a NEC, and since the Marquee is the better projector except at convergence precision, i want all convergence power i can get
That's why i'm looking for perfection here.
I won't need all the convergence range for my setup, not nearly. the pj. is only 2,7m from the screen, so I need quiet a lot of toe in,
which leads to a lot of well... Trapezkorrektur (give me the word again, please
but most corrections should be done via the geometry menu.The screen is not that much curved (radius 8,6m) so i don't think i will run into corner focus problems (GT17 lenses).
Since i am stuck on the mechanical setup, i cannot tell for sure, but apart from those things i thought to be issues (convergence) everything is fine.
BUT BUT: In a blend or stacking scenario it is possible that You will need much more convergence range in order to align the grid between both projectors. If the effect really should make a uniform grid impossible, You should try to reduce the distance between both projectors to a minimum and have them perfectly aligned to the screen using their green tubes as a reference. The angle between each green tube and the mid-point of the screen should be equal (only reversed).
BUT BUT BUT: What if the displacement effect is the same on the red and the blue tube? Then You still should be able to get them converged. Maybe You could try this too.
The only thing that still stays an issue is the 2x HV crackling + 1,5s H-fail LED with one of my HDMs. Maybe this issue has been there for a long time and i just didn't notice it.
I could now try to disassemble the HDM, look for the fault and search for quiet a long time. But since the picture is stable and every setting does it's job
(as far as you can tell on a completely unaligned machine) i think I'm just going to let it crackle twice.
Maybe i should change that Q3 on the HDM (the big mosfet you sent me once).
I'm not supposed to tell this, but i did never change that mosfet, because... well the thing always worked.
Yeah, I'm gonna do that, will report again.
Thanks guys!
Regards, Julian
