Philips 50PF7320A/37B green then flashing red power light.

Right. I think that document was covering 2 different supplies. That is why I said Don't take everything verbatim. Use as guides. Are you good to keep going now? I know you said something about missing the 8v supply. Can you trace on the board? I do not have a schematic for the supply.

Yes , I will look at it some more. I'll look for where the 8+ starts and trouble shoot there first. I also may take out the supply and try the out of chassis
diagnosis using the jumpers on the alarm board as they call it. I think this allows all voltages to be present where they should be even tho they are not getting the on or off signals from the associated boards. Or at least that is how I think it works right?

I think I'll still get that 35 dollar ebay board too. At work right now so this will have to wait till tonight or tomorrow evening.

Nashou

Ok this is the IC that supplies the 8.6 VDC

LM2576
3.0 A, 15 V, Step-Down
Switching Regulator

pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet2/d/0j9l2p4l1egh0up8p565iwkoi8cy.pdf

I think its ok. I thought pin 3 was shorted to pin 5( the on/off) but the data sheet shows it goes to GND for a fixed output. The other parts that i followed that have a connection from the underside
to the 8+ voltage seem ok, there is a cap , inductor , and a diode . My DMM's battery just died but before it did i found a 224 ohm reading between the 8.6 vdc test point next to the connector and GND,
and at one end of a resistor. not sure if that end is connected to GND as the battery died. have to look for another DMM for now.

I found two bulged caps under the heat sink overhang i did not notice before. I think one goes to the transformer that should feed the
ADJ SMPS regulator of the 8.6 vdc line. Also all pins on that one side show continuity. hard to follow traces as its close
to the heat sink.


Top of transformer. Low light and flash didn't get down into the board area.


Here is the underside of the PCB, it has the transformer and the SMPS IC8041
the input pin goes to D8041. Hard to be sure if they are ok while in as they measure .1xx or more
slowly rising. I guess when I replace the caps I'll remove one leg and check them. 
I loose the path for the pin 1 past C8078. can't see where it goes on other side either.




One of the bulged caps: the one with the WB on it (C8054 its silk screen is in pic above)

yeah I think that chassis is different so I didnt even bother looking at it. I bet a samsung 50 inch would be a better
chance of having matching boards.

The 42 inch PS is identical except for the board number. I wonder if it work incase I cant get this one up and running.

Nashou

Thanks for the doc Mac. 

I'll first check the IC next to those first two caps i replaced at the beginning of this thread. i followed the traces for the 8.6 v line back to the diode next to it
and I think it ties to that diode as do those two blown caps.

Yes, replace anything you know is bad before powering it up again. More damage could result if you don't. You really should ESR all those PS caps.