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Post by tibimakai on Aug 23, 2018 23:07:13 GMT -5
You are right, I have removed L7007.
I will start doing those steps as soon as I can.
I don't understand the last sentence. What should I do, at pin 14? It is a pfc ribbon.
Should I remove the first part, that comes out from pin 14?
Q8975(5 vdo) is getting hot as well, but this component is in series, with the Q7018(3.3V vdo).
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Post by mastertech on Aug 24, 2018 7:42:05 GMT -5
If P7002A is a ribbon cable then just disconnect the complete cable and test your short. Do not worry about pin 14.
EDIT: Let me add, disconnect this harness first and check your short. If it still shows short then continue with the other things I suggested to remove.
Were both of these still getting hot after you removed L7007?
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 1, 2018 14:20:28 GMT -5
Sorry, I had some other emergencies and I couldn't come back to this receiver. One of the issues I had, is my wife's Kenwood DNX57HD navigation receiver has failed. Just the LCD backlight, fan and the reset/power LED turns on. Do you think that we could do something about this? I have the SM for this. I had an (different)issue with it, in the past, but I ended up giving it to Kenwood. It was the main microprocessor, that was replaced. Than it was completely dead.
This weekend, I will remove L7003 and go from there.
Right now, I just work with the HDMI board on the table. P7002A is not connected.
When I have removed L7007, I did not know, that the VDOs are heating up, so I have not tested for that, but since the short was toward the MPU, and not toward the Q8975, I have to assume, that they were not heating up.
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Post by mastertech on Sept 1, 2018 17:40:51 GMT -5
Sorry, I had some other emergencies and I couldn't come back to this receiver. One of the issues I had, is my wife's Kenwood DNX57HD navigation receiver has failed. Just the LCD backlight, fan and the reset/power LED turns on. Do you think that we could do something about this? I have the SM for this. I had an (different)issue with it, in the past, but I ended up giving it to Kenwood. It was the main microprocessor, that was replaced. Than it was completely dead. This weekend, I will remove L7003 and go from there. Right now, I just work with the HDMI board on the table. P7002A is not connected. When I have removed L7007, I did not know, that the VDOs are heating up, so I have not tested for that, but since the short was toward the MPU, and not toward the Q8975, I have to assume, that they were not heating up. Sure. Link me to the manual and I will have a look. |
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 1, 2018 22:53:35 GMT -5
I have it on a CD, purchased it, from pacparts.com. I will have to see, what size it is, to see if I can attach it here.
In my opinion, for now, we should get to the bottom of this first.
I also work in parallel, on an Asus Q502L laptop.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 1, 2018 22:56:58 GMT -5
It is 10.7MB in size, only 1Mb is allowed.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 2, 2018 16:06:16 GMT -5
With the HDMI board on the table(everything disconnected), I have removed L7007 and I have 3.3V there, so no heating up.
At L7003 2.7 Ohm, with or without ribbon connected.
Q7001, pin #8 has 3 Ohm, even when I have removed it.
I'm having a hard time, finding Q7020(Reset IC, for Q7009). I will continue looking.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 2, 2018 16:50:47 GMT -5
OK, I have found Q7020 and Q7013. After removing them, the 3 Ohm is still there.
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Post by mastertech on Sept 2, 2018 20:21:20 GMT -5
Ok. So at this point besides Q7009 you also still have a bunch of caps on that line and a few other things. Rather then starting to remove all those caps I think if it was me I would put L7007 back in and energize that 3.3v line even if those regulators get hot and I would start feeling around those caps and also Q7009 and see if any of those are getting hot.
If you need a list of the caps to feel if getting hot let me know and I can make that list.
EDIT; oh, and did you remove L7003 or just test at it?
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 2, 2018 20:58:28 GMT -5
With the ribbon cable removed, L7003 is not connected, right? I have the board out on my table.
Q7009 is cold, when everything is connected. If it would be shorted, it should heat up, no?
I would appreciate it, if you could give me the capacitors, that I have to check.
Let's say, that Q7009 is shorted, can I get another one, from another Onkyo? It seems like, some other lower end model Onkyos, have this IC.
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Post by mastertech on Sept 2, 2018 21:49:07 GMT -5
As for L7003, if there is nothing connected to connector P2201B then you should not have to remove it.
Here are the caps connected on that line:
C7000
C7004
C7018
C7036
C7032
C7019
C7017
C7015
C7184
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 2, 2018 23:15:55 GMT -5
Thank you.
I may not be back, for a few days.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 4, 2018 23:36:46 GMT -5
C7000 goes into the P2201B connector, so it is open toward the connector, no need to remove.
C7004 is OK.
C7018 is OK.
C7036 is OK.
C7032 is OK.
C7019 is OK.
C7017 is OK.
C7015 is OK.
C7184 is OK as well.
Does not look good, for Q7009.
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Post by mastertech on Sept 5, 2018 9:24:35 GMT -5
C7000 goes into the P2201B connector, so it is open toward the connector, no need to remove. I am well aware that that cap goes to the connector however it is the 3.3v line going to that connector and cap C7000 is coupling that line to gnd. This was another reason I earlier suggested removing L7003. So it still needs to be removed for testing. If that cap is ok then you could try lifting a couple legs on Q7009 and see if the short goes away. There are only about 5 legs tied directly to the 3.3v line.  |
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 5, 2018 10:23:15 GMT -5
OK, I will remove that also.
How would I lift those legs, without breaking them?
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