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Post by mastertech on Sept 17, 2018 18:38:26 GMT -5
If you want to test these 2 regulators you can probably jump pins 4 and 5 of Q8967 and both ic's should output correctly.
Note; I did not check the datasheet for turn on voltage so you may want to check first.
Also make sure you read previous post before this one in case you missed it.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 17, 2018 18:59:30 GMT -5
I guess, I have jumped to a wrong conclusion. Most likely, some kind of protection mode was tripped and that is why, I did not have any output from Q8967.
Now, I have again around 1.5V, which is to low, there it should be 3.3V. Something is bringing down this voltage.
From the block diagram(page #24), it seems like one of these: Q3404, Q3401, or Q3406.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 17, 2018 19:02:37 GMT -5
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Post by mastertech on Sept 17, 2018 19:34:25 GMT -5
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Post by mastertech on Sept 17, 2018 20:07:52 GMT -5
It looks to me like L3409 disconnects all 3 of these ics from the 3.3V DSP line.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 17, 2018 20:49:53 GMT -5
You are right about the AS5 package. How come, it did not show up in the pdf file, that I have found?
I will look into L3409.
Now I'm checking again Q7009 pins, and I already found some loose.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 18, 2018 0:11:38 GMT -5
I went back and forth, with soldering over and over Q7009. Finally, I think that I have managed to solder it. I have still found a couple of legs, that were loose.
Now, I have 1.0VDSP as well. Traces are still cut, though. Tomorrow, I will join those as well and see, if anything changes.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 18, 2018 15:38:30 GMT -5
What is weird, that when I plug in the AC cord, it won't boot up. I have to hold ON button and than plug in the AC cord, only then will turn on.
The "new" micom has a different software in it, and maybe that has to be updated for everything to work properly.
Somewhere I have read, that the micom and another IC(don't remember if it was the eeprom, or another Ic maybe spi flash) has to match the same firmware,to be able to communicate with each other.
Right now, all the "big coils" have the right voltages. 5V, 3.3V, 1.8V, 1.1V and 1.0V.
What do you recommend to do next?
What is weird, that there is still no display.
What is happening right now, when I depress the ON button, the power supply relay clicks on and two seconds later off.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 20, 2018 13:19:24 GMT -5
No ideas, on what to do next?
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Post by mastertech on Sept 20, 2018 15:27:27 GMT -5
Well I guess at this point we are kinda starting over. But I have some concerns.
1) Are you pretty sure you have that IC all properly soldered in with good connections and no solder jumps?
2) Are all components put back in that were removed for previous testing. So ALL components are in?
3) Are all boards installed back in the receiver and all wires and harnesses reconnected, all screws installed? Basically a completely assembled receiver with just the cover removed.
4) Have you tried to update the firmware?
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 20, 2018 16:51:12 GMT -5
1. Pretty confident, but I will go over again just in case.
2. Q8000 is out, I assume that it is bad, since by removing it, the voltages came back. I will order a new one, but it will probably take around 3 weeks to arrive.
3. Pre-amp boards are removed only, but I can put them back. I just wanted to be sure, that the problem is not from the amp.
4. Receiver does not stay on, only for two seconds and nothing shows up on the display. There is another way, to update the firmware?
Most likely, we will have to get rid of this protect mode issue, before we can worry about the firmware.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 20, 2018 18:39:42 GMT -5
I will test each pin, for continuity to the next component.
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Post by mastertech on Sept 20, 2018 19:25:54 GMT -5
I will test each pin, for continuity to the next component. That is a good idea. Other then that I would rather wait until you have the other ic installed because I would hate to do further testing only to find out that ic is needed for communication in order to function. |
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 20, 2018 20:16:20 GMT -5
Sounds good, so I will take a break with this, for a couple of weeks.
There is a measurement, that I could make on the old one(HDMI IC), maybe to check between some pins, to be sure that is really shorted?
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 22, 2018 0:38:12 GMT -5
All pins checked out OK.
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