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Post by tibimakai on Sept 22, 2018 14:23:09 GMT -5
Another thing I would like to ask you, what this whole board does, when the receiver boots up? Just gives a command(voltage), right? That is the 5V via P2200B? That voltage is present.
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Post by mastertech on Sept 22, 2018 15:02:03 GMT -5
Main micom (Q7009) pin 144 should be 3.3v. When you press and hold the standby/on button this voltage should drop to zero. When you release the button it should come back up to 3.3v.
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Post by tibimakai on Sept 22, 2018 17:32:25 GMT -5
Thanks, I will check that. But I'm wondering what else happens, with this whole HDMI board, like what is outputting to other boards? I'm just wondering, if we get that.
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 17, 2018 0:00:16 GMT -5
OK(it's not), I have soldered the new IC in, but the short is back. The only voltage that is OK, is the 5V, 3.3V measures only 0.7V and the 1.8V, 1.1V and 1.0V is 0V. They are shorted again.
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 17, 2018 12:33:52 GMT -5
I'm thinking about this HDMI shorted issue and the 646 issue, that I have in another thread and I'm thinking, that couldn't be the same SII IC(Q8302), that is shorted and pulling down the voltages?
I will check, when I get home.
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 17, 2018 15:30:09 GMT -5
I'm thinking about this HDMI shorted issue and the 646 issue, that I have in another thread and I'm thinking, that couldn't be the same SII IC(Q8302), that is shorted and pulling down the voltages? I will check, when I get home. Check D7003 and D7002. I find that when the MAIN CPU is blown, these two are usually blown as well. If so, they may have caused your second chip to fail.
The big problem you are going to have is to find the software for that chip. It has embedded flash and Onkyo loads it through one of the diag ports. Since this code manages all of the front panel buttons as well as the diagnostics routines, it is different for every system. The bigger issue is that on the higher end models, Onkyo sometimes sets a "read protect password" making it impossible to get a copy from another system. I would try something close (like the NR838 which is not password protected) and then if I could get the CPU to boot, quickly do a firmware update to see if I could get it to accept the RZ800 code.
To do this you will need:
1) a Renesas E1 programmer - available from digikey (picture of my box attached)
2) you will need to build an interface board (picture of the interface I built attached) 3) an NR838 board to pull the firmware from (and the signature)
The software is pretty easy to use and the good news is that you don't need to power the system on since the programmer will power the chip. In fact, I have used this to pull the firmware off bad boards where the CPU was still good.
HTH Todd
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 17, 2018 17:25:21 GMT -5
Thank you very much for all this TJ, but I don't think that I will be going that far, with the repair. Programmer is pretty expensive, to find an RZ, or even a 838 HDMI board, is very hard.
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 17, 2018 21:14:11 GMT -5
You were right, about the diodes. D7002 is shorted and D7003 shows 0.4V, one way and 0.3V the other way. That is bad as well, right? DSP crystal 97Kohm. I have just measured it, since I was curious about this. I will have to measure on the 609 this one as well.
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 17, 2018 22:53:15 GMT -5
These diodes are the lines for the IPROTECT and VPROTECT signals. Wow, great find. These are some special diodes, or I could replace them, with something else. Digikey has them.
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 18, 2018 10:38:37 GMT -5
You were right, about the diodes. D7002 is shorted and D7003 shows 0.4V, one way and 0.3V the other way. That is bad as well, right? DSP crystal 97Kohm. I have just measured it, since I was curious about this. I will have to measure on the 609 this one as well. Yes, that is bad. I would replace both diode's before installing a new Main CPU.
A resistance of 97K ohms on the crystal tells me that the DSP is not making contact on balls F1 and/or F2. I would first try to reflow this chip to see if you can get the solder to bond. If that doesn't work I would remove the chip, clean all the solder off, and do a bench test by placing your probes on F1 and F2 to see if you get 100 ohms. F1 simply means the 6th column on the bottom (F) and the first row. F2 is the 6th column, 2nd row. If you get 100 ohms, the chip is probably ok so you can re-ball it and try to re-install it. If you get a value in the Kohm range, the chip is bad and will need to be replaced.
HTH Todd
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 18, 2018 10:39:25 GMT -5
These diodes are the lines for the IPROTECT and VPROTECT signals. Wow, great find. These are some special diodes, or I could replace them, with something else. Digikey has them. Nothing special but they are readily available from Digikey and Mouser.
Also, since the vProtect diode was shot, you really need to find the source of the short in the main amplifier section before attempting too many repairs. Something is bad here and if it isn't fixed, you are going to keep blowing parts.
You may need to triple check the INA6006's, INC6006's, TTA004B's, TTC004B's and 2SC2713's for each pre-amp board. I would also be suspicious of the 82ohm resistors (position R6074 for example) and the 22uF/50V (C6024 for example) on every one of these boards. Something is shorted (or open). EVERY board should be electronically identical on every test point. When you find the one that is different at any test point, that will be the source of your problem.
I should offer the caveat that it is possible that the problems started with the MICOM chip and that the diode's blew from the MICOM direction instead of the AMP section but you need to be 200% sure that the AMP section is good before throwing more parts at this.
HTH
Todd
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 18, 2018 10:43:59 GMT -5
Sent you a PM on one possible option for the Main CPU for this RZ800.
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Post by Admin on Oct 18, 2018 10:59:58 GMT -5
Sent you a PM on one possible option for the Main CPU for this RZ800. We all would really appreciate it if any suggestions were made in view since we would all like to have solutions. Is there a specific reason to go to PM on this? |
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 18, 2018 11:18:09 GMT -5
Sent you a PM on one possible option for the Main CPU for this RZ800. We all would really appreciate it if any suggestions were made in view since we would all like to have solutions. Is there a specific reason to go to PM on this? I merely wanted to make Tibimaki aware that I have a working MICOM for an NR838 that I could offer to him for the cost of shipping and parts. Repairing receivers is just a hobby for me so I don't make any money at this but I have acquired a small collection of spare parts. My challenge is that I don't want to get into the electronics supply (or repair) business. Hope this clarifies. |
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Post by Admin on Oct 18, 2018 11:19:36 GMT -5
Oh, ok. Sorry, I thought it was a repair suggestion.
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