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Post by kopraish on Mar 8, 2019 9:56:40 GMT -5
Hi. When i push power button relay click, i have display, one more relay click and receiver turn off . All main transistors, emmiter resistors are perfect, all fuse normal, no any burn. I try to reset, but nothing. Main transf. is fine Can you tell me, any suggestion. SM is too big - elektrotanya.com/onkyo_tx-nr609.pdf/download.html |
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 8, 2019 11:04:20 GMT -5
Maybe you have a short in the pre-amp section(vertical board). Pull it out and see, if it will stays on.
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 8, 2019 12:08:22 GMT -5
Maybe you have a short in the pre-amp section(vertical board). Pull it out and see, if it will stays on. Agreed. What you are seeing is the AMP is going into protect mode due to over-voltage or over-current conditions. If the Amp section is ok, the issue is likely the pre-amp board as tibimakai suggests.
Each channel has it's own section on this board. I would start on Q5250 and compare it to the rest of the channels. Next I would check Q5260 and compare it to the rest of the channels. Continue on with: Q5410, Q5440, Q5430 and then move to the resistors/capacitors R5470, C5440, R5350, R5420, R5370, R5380, R5270, etc. Note that C5010 (or its equivalent on any of the other channels) can also cause this issue.
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 8, 2019 12:20:28 GMT -5
I would check a low value resistor, like maybe a 2.2 Ohm by the connector, to narrow it down which channel has the problem. At least on the newer receivers, there is a through hole resistor, with that value.
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Post by kopraish on Mar 8, 2019 15:08:04 GMT -5
Thanks for suggestions. I check pre-amp board all elements, everything is normal. Every channel is absolutly same like other. Anything else for check, please.
Mani amp+pre amp = normal.
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 8, 2019 17:11:43 GMT -5
Check D605 and D606 on the HDMI board (near the MAIN processor) to make sure they are functioning correctly
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 8, 2019 17:13:09 GMT -5
Also, disconnect the temperature sensor. The system will run without it but this will tell you if it is an issue.
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 8, 2019 18:00:00 GMT -5
Did you remove the pre-amp board and try it as tibimakai suggests?
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 8, 2019 19:03:47 GMT -5
It may not be a dead short, at a transistor, maybe only a resistor is bad. You should measure the resistors, around the final and pre final transistors.
I believe, that you should measure the speaker outputs for DC voltage, right Todd?
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Post by mastertech on Mar 8, 2019 19:19:35 GMT -5
Generally I try to stay out of these Onkyo threads and let you guys handle them but I would think he should be testing the protect lines to see if it is even being triggered into protection before he goes hunting all over the place for a problem that may not even be there.
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 8, 2019 21:27:34 GMT -5
Generally I try to stay out of these Onkyo threads and let you guys handle them but I would think he should be testing the protect lines to see if it is even being triggered into protection before he goes hunting all over the place for a problem that may not even be there. Agreed. That is why I asked him to check those two diodes. If they are ok, I was going to ask him to put a meter on them and grab the readings at power on. |
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Post by kopraish on Mar 9, 2019 3:38:04 GMT -5
Yes, i remove pre-amp board from receiver and measure all components on every channel, the are same like other. D605/D606 on hdmi board are fine when i measure with multimeter on diode.
On catode D606 when i push power button i have 11.52v, on anode i have 3.21v. On catode D605 i have 0.14v, on anode 0.5v.
I disconnect temperature sensor, but receiver again shut off.
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 9, 2019 7:57:37 GMT -5
Yes, i remove pre-amp board from receiver and measure all components on every channel, the are same like other. D605/D606 on hdmi board are fine when i measure with multimeter on diode. On catode D606 when i push power button i have 11.52v, on anode i have 3.21v. On catode D605 i have 0.14v, on anode 0.5v. I disconnect temperature sensor, but receiver again shut off. I think you misunderstand. We want you to remove the pre-amp board and then try to power on the receiver.
D606 is the "Voltage Protect" circuit and that number is WAY too high (it should be the same as D605). This means you do have a short somewhere on the Amplifier side. As MasterTech notes, you likely have a failing component that hasn't completely blown. If you remove the pre-amp board and turn the machine on, we will learn the following:
1) if the system stays on - the issue is on the pre-amp board
2) if the system shuts off - the issue is on one of the Main Amp circuits.
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Post by kopraish on Mar 9, 2019 9:59:28 GMT -5
Sorry. I remove pre-amp board and receiver turn on. That mean ..., i have problem on pre amp?
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 9, 2019 10:43:43 GMT -5
Sorry. I remove pre-amp board and receiver turn on. That mean ..., i have problem on pre amp? Yes, it would appear that the issue is on your pre-amp board. These can be difficult to figure out. I have seen this issue before on an NR636 (different components but the same circuit design) and the issue turned out to be a bad capacitor that caused damage to 2 transistors. Both transistors seemed to test ok until I measured them in the opposite direction. By this I mean that I typically test a transistor using the diode feature on my meter and (for an NPN), placing the black lead on the base and then test with the red lead on the collector then emitter. I found the issue by testing with the red lead on the base and the black lead on the other two (one at a time). What I found was that the transistor tested ok in the normal direction but was passing current in the opposite direction as well. This became obvious when I compared the result to a good channel. The root cause of the issue is that a capacitor was allowing DC current to flow through it.
As MasterTech noted, these types of issues are hard to find because nothing is "blown", just damaged. I would recommend that you start by testing each of the transistors below in every combination of probe orientation and comparing the measurements to the next channel. Keep stepping through each set to see if you can find one that is significantly different than the others. If you find one that is different, that is likely the bad channel so I would first replace the capacitor and the two transistors from that channel. At this point I would also double check all of the other components in that circuit the same way to confirm that these are the only bad components. Once the new components are installed, I would retest the system. If it works, I would then go back and change all of the rest of the capacitors (one for each channel) because if one is going bad, the rest will likely fail soon.
HTH Todd
On your pre-amp, these parts would be:
Left Channel Capacitor: C5010 Transistors: Q5030 and Q5040
Right Channel Capacitor: C5011 Transistors: Q5031 and Q5041
Center Channel
Capacitor: C5012
Transistors: Q5032 and Q5042
Surround Left Channel
Capacitor: C5013
Transistors: Q5033 and Q5043
Surround Right Channel
Capacitor: C5014
Transistors: Q5034 and Q5044
Surround Back Left Channel
Capacitor: C5015
Transistors: Q5035 and Q5045
Surround Back Right Channel
Capacitor: C5016
Transistors: Q5036 and Q5046
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