A coworker gave me the whole set for free, this receiver with the bad HDMI and a bunch of speakers and bad subwoofer(different thread here and badcaps). HDMI IC was getting very hot. He installed a fan there, and that way at least he was using it without HDMI. I assumed that that IC is shorted, since it was getting so hot. Though the 3.3V, 1.8V at the HDMI, IC and 5V at pin #18, at the HDMI were there. I have replaced the HDMI IC, and now does not turn on, it only clicks on and then off, continuously. Any ideas, where to start with this? It is not really worth dealing with this receiver, it is very old, but it is just a personal challenge. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
There is not a lot of circuitry in the HDMI section of this receiver. If you are sure the Q8101 part is good the only things I can see to check are the transistor pairs connected to the Hot Plug Detect lines (Q8111/Q8112 - HDMI 1, Q8113/Q8114 - HDMI2, Q8115/Q8116 - HDMI3, Q8117/Q8118 - HDMI4.
There is also a small "dual diode" device (Q8347) on the HDMI out port that you should check as well.
I'm doing a good job now. I have a microscope, I have purchased that tip, that you have showed me. I'm going over like three times to be sure, that everything is OK. One trace it was ripped off(lifted like two inches long), from the beginning, but I have managed to solder it back. The only thing that could be, is that the IC from Ali, is bad. The previous owner has replaced this HDMI IC, but since I have already purchased a replacement IC, and it was getting very hot, I thought that it's a good idea to replace it.
It is hard to diagnose something, when it keeps turning on and off. The transformer has on both pins 40V for a second. At JL901B connector(page 37), the 12V, 10V and 12.9V(Mpower) are there stable. At JL801B th 5.2V and 12V are not there. They show something like 0.58V and 0.8V. I have even removed the HDMI IC(Q8101) and nothing has changed, still clicking on and off. The Micom is bad?
I have removed the pre-amp board, tested the final transistors for short, but they are all good. I ended up unplugging most of the ribbon cables from the speaker board, HDMI board and it was still clicking. The only thing left connected on the HDMI board, it was the JL901B. After removing the ribbon from that connector, the clicking has stopped.
Did you check D702 and D701? If you aren't seeing any obvious shorts on pin 4 and 2 of JL901B, it might make sense to take a quick look at the power supply board. Specifically: D930, D931, D923, D921, D924, D922, D925, C930, C922. Also try to measure R921 to make sure it is 47 ohms. If it is below 45 ohms, change it out.
lfcfan: Hi Todd, have been reading endlessly about the topic, and I really don't think that I'll be capable to 1. do the job myself as I don't have enough of the right equipment, and it looks like only the people who have access to TI exclusive distribution networ
Apr 9, 2020 17:17:06 GMT -5
skydronelink: Thank you I advance
Jan 29, 2020 4:01:41 GMT -5
skydronelink: Hi Repairaj, I have the same issue, but I am not able to get the cap value, I can tell it is the same board but deffirent rev cause of the side CAP is not the same value ! any idea how I can get the right burnt cap value?
Jan 29, 2020 4:01:31 GMT -5
skydronelink: Hello Jerme, thank you for the those images, is there is any chance to get the C2 (Cap) value or an image for it ? Thank you in advance.
Jan 27, 2020 23:15:06 GMT -5
skydronelink: Hello Sergio, I have the same issue, but I am not able to get the cap value, did find out what is the cap value?
Jan 26, 2020 18:01:17 GMT -5
jbmeyer13: Wolfy's Marquee isn't working? Did you spill a pint on it and short the MB?
Apr 25, 2019 8:32:28 GMT -5
wolfman: Always the same sarkasm Kurt that's why I never checked in until now. I knew you wouldn't give me a cheerful answer so let you hang for a while. Removed the last part you probably are a decent guy Eye to Eye.
Apr 19, 2019 18:55:30 GMT -5