2tone
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by 2tone on Sept 19, 2019 14:14:23 GMT -5
You should first try to reset the Receiver (press and hold CBL/SAT then while holding it, press "ON/STANDBY"). If that doesn't work my next question would be: Does everything else work? If yes, you likely have a broken solder ball and a reflow would be a good idea. If no, it could still be a broken solder ball but if you have no sound, the chip could have failed. Thanks tjmotter, Ive done a reset and still no network settings showing in the menu well its there when viewing on tv but greyed out. Ill try the reflow at the weekend and see how that gose. |
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Post by trytofix on Sept 19, 2019 14:25:43 GMT -5
Ok, I learned something new today. When an Onkyo Main CPU wishes to mute all channels, you will see ~2.5V on the AMUT signal. When it wishes to unmute all channels, the voltage on the AMUT signal will jump to -15V. From this it would appear that your HDMI board is working properly so the issue could be either the MUTE signals on the Amplifier board or the Speaker relay circuit. Can you perform the following test for me? 1) Connect everything up but use headphones instead of wiring up the speakers 2) Turn the system on 3) Select "TUNER" and press the dial buttons until you get a good signal 4) monitor the AMUT signal with your multimeter and wait until it shows -15V 3) Let me know if you have any sound from the headphones You are right about the AMUT signal jumping to -15v when there is something playing, although I used USB because the FM tuner doesn't work, it doesn't auto search when you press/hold the dial buttons and also does not pick any radio signal even when I tune it manually. The other thing is I got the receiver without any accessories like antenna, remote etc.. I am using the accessories for my NR515 including the remote, but yah when playing music from the USB I tested the AMUT and it was at -15v and when I stoped playing it was at 2.5v, but there was no sound out of the headphone. my bet is on the Speaker relay circuit I will try today to check the schematics on that board.. |
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 19, 2019 14:45:49 GMT -5
just to cover the basics, the connector in this picture transfers the control signals from the MAIN CPU down to the speaker relay circuit. Make sure the cable is properly connected and double check it to make sure there are no breaks.  |
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Post by tjmotter on Sept 19, 2019 14:48:42 GMT -5
Ok, I learned something new today. When an Onkyo Main CPU wishes to mute all channels, you will see ~2.5V on the AMUT signal. When it wishes to unmute all channels, the voltage on the AMUT signal will jump to -15V. From this it would appear that your HDMI board is working properly so the issue could be either the MUTE signals on the Amplifier board or the Speaker relay circuit. Can you perform the following test for me? 1) Connect everything up but use headphones instead of wiring up the speakers 2) Turn the system on 3) Select "TUNER" and press the dial buttons until you get a good signal 4) monitor the AMUT signal with your multimeter and wait until it shows -15V 3) Let me know if you have any sound from the headphones You are right about the AMUT signal jumping to -15v when there is something playing, although I used USB because the FM tuner doesn't work, it doesn't auto search when you press/hold the dial buttons and also does not pick any radio signal even when I tune it manually. The other thing is I got the receiver without any accessories like antenna, remote etc.. I am using the accessories for my NR515 including the remote, but yah when playing music from the USB I tested the AMUT and it was at -15v and when I stoped playing it was at 2.5v, but there was no sound out of the headphone. my bet is on the Speaker relay circuit I will try today to check the schematics on that board.. The only time I have seen a tuner that didn't work it was on an NR636 that was hit by lightning. Unfortunately the part that gets damaged is not available but i was able to repair the rest of the receiver and found a repair depot that was willing to sell me a new tuner for $20. I truly hope that isn't what happened to your receiver because lighting/power surges do a LOT of damage. |
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2tone
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by 2tone on Sept 22, 2019 6:16:25 GMT -5
All back up and running after reflow, have also fitted a hit sink hopefully keep me running for a bit longer.
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 1, 2019 11:00:46 GMT -5
All back up and running after reflow, have also fitted a hit sink hopefully keep me running for a bit longer. GREAT JOB!! |
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petem
New Member
Posts: 6
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Post by petem on Oct 6, 2019 14:25:26 GMT -5
Hi eveyone! New to board, but been reading a lot of these onkyo issues in here. And guess what, I have some too..  So a little help is needed here.. I have tx-nr616 with the dreaded no sound issue, and I tried to look for info of the dsp showing firmware as D?  ? But no explanation is it the chip or corrupt fw. I reflowed the dts chip and it gets warm when system is on, but have no usb or network. So is the D with question marks indicating what? Also other debug modes indicate the chip not being detected.. I also plugged in to the 3102 port that is for programming the dsp, but I get only jibberish to putty, tried all possible speeds wth 2303 adapter (not hx) and one usb uart too, same thing.. With profilic and other brands. Also the hdmi serial port gives the same stuff when plugged in.. So I can see that there is stuff going on, but nothing that makes sense. I assume the voltage level on uart is 3.3, tried both 5 and 3.3, same results. Maybe someone Could help here a little. Tjmotter, you seem to be quite experienced with these.  |
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petem
New Member
Posts: 6
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Post by petem on Oct 8, 2019 23:02:12 GMT -5
Anyone?
I will try again with new wires to tap in to DSP port tonight, but this bunch of question marks on DSP firmware debug is puzzling me. Ordered 2303HX from eBay, but I expect 3-4 weeks delivery time.. ;(
If someone could point me to right direction, it would be awesome.
I have measured voltages coming to DSP chip, and are ok, crystal is ok and measured 99-100k resistance on it, so by other thread the chip solder balls should be ok by the guide.
Also on scope I can see the crystal at 20Mhz.
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 9, 2019 9:54:33 GMT -5
Tjmotter is the specialist in this matter, but what I have gathered is when you see those question marks, the DSP is not soldered properly, or it is bad(there is a recall for the original C version IC). New version IC has a D in the model number.
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petem
New Member
Posts: 6
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Post by petem on Oct 9, 2019 11:46:27 GMT -5
Tjmotter is the specialist in this matter, but what I have gathered is when you see those question marks, the DSP is not soldered properly, or it is bad(there is a recall for the original C version IC). New version IC has a D in the model number. Thanks for reply tibimakai. I Did reflow it, and the chip warms up now when powered on, earlier it Did not.. Checked with scope that there is some activity on tx line, but still, I get nothing on serial terminal. Mute transistors are ok, and all power line voltages are as they should be. All resistors check out ok near the dsp, so narrowing it down one by one.. Have one nr515 that was an easy fix, but at that time Did not check the debug Mode for firmware, so no comparison of bad chip to corrupt fw. I hope tjmotter might see my posts and give me hint.. |
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 9, 2019 21:19:08 GMT -5
I have been traveling. Apologies for the delay.
The settings you need in Putty are:
baud rate: 115200
Parity: none
Bits: 8
If you are getting gibberish it is possibly caused by having one or more of these settings incorrect. Regardless, it is a good sign.
Unfortunately the only way I have found to determine if the firmware is bad is to replace it. The symptoms of a bad DSP and bad firmware are the same. Since you are getting some activity on the diag port it would imply to me that your DSP is working but there is an issue with the firmware. It is important to understand that this DSP is actually an ARM based CPU running linux. The NAND chip that hosts the firmware is seen by the CPU as a hard drive. Onkyo accomplishes this by loading a software package called "YAFFS" (Yet Another Flash File System) which is the first item to boot. YAFFS provided the translation that makes the NAND chip appear like a hard drive and it also manages bad sectors, parity errors etc. The issue in a case like this is that if a critical solderball (like a power pin or some of the memory pins) breaks, it can cause data corruption on the NAND that the YAFFS system can't handle. I suspect that if you can get a Putty session established you will find that YAFFS is loading but the partition it is trying to access has been damaged.
The only way I have found to fix this is to burn a new NAND with a good copy of the code. Since YAFFS also establishes the MAC address required for the Ethernet port, I then follow up by interrupting the YAFFS boot process and modifying the copied firmware to use the MAC address printed on the sticker on top of the Ethernet port. Very easy to do. You could run just fine without changing the MAC address but your ethernet switch will get confused if it finds 2 MAC addresses on the same segment so it is best to fix this.
In some cases, the data corruption actually hits the YAFFS section of the NAND. If it simply screwed up the environmental parameters, it is REALLY easy to fix. If you get PUTTY to work and see a message during the YAFFS booting process that indicates a bad environment, ping me and I will explain how to fix it.
HTH
Todd
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petem
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Posts: 6
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Post by petem on Oct 9, 2019 22:14:29 GMT -5
Hi Todd! Thank you for your reply! I´d love to be traveling too, but work work work...  Yes, I earlier had jibberish, now actually I get nothing. ;( So I am starting to lean on DSP failure. Using Putty, yes, PL2303 old version.. Having trouble running it with Win10, so using old Win98 on a laptop.. I will try the reflow once more, but out of flux.. So waiting that damn thing to arrive.. Why all these run out when you are "in a hurry" to get stuff working.. There was some original post of hacking fw of onkyo in Finnish guys pages, and there was mentioned that only 2303hx is the one to use, that no other will work, is it really so..? I am familiar with those linux environment settings, in IT world I live in, its very common in rack controllers, BMC chips etc. Have one NR515 that came to me in exchange to other I repaired, poor guy used some paint stripping heatgun, so the board is quite done... Well, part of the board is brownish and loads of components gone in the wind.. DSP looks ok.. So questions.. Where to source a good replacement, china yes, but I understood to avoid the XD chips as they do not seem to work..? How about BGA reball stencils? If I need to flash the NAND chip, is there anyone who has done it and written a guide of it? Or is it just like fw - flasher - write - done type of thing? I do understand there must be the YAFFS as pre-boot part, and part that has the OS, so need to know the address range..? I need to get a NAND flasher, as I do not have one at the moment. BR Pete |
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 10, 2019 14:57:47 GMT -5
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petem
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Post by petem on Oct 10, 2019 22:37:52 GMT -5
Thank you for your reply Todd. I did replace the DSP yesterday evening, but with 0.55 balls, and same issue still. fw shown in debug menu is just D with bunch of question marks.. (only 0.55mm ones left at the moment). Both chips I have are B version, most likely though the chip that came with the poor guys reflow attempt might be bad, I think I will retry with the original one during weekend. After the works I measured good resistance between the x-tal pins of 99k, so by that assumption the chip soldering went ok. Still nothing from serial.. Well, this amp was cheap, paid 15€ for it with remote, so no big loss.. I will replace it once again during weekend to the original that came with the amp, thumbs up.. Otherwise, I do really like the amps made by Onkyo, the menus are logical for me, remote is extensive with fast change buttons to modes etc. (Btw, sorry for my bad english and possibly grammar, not my mother tongue), and not using translator Well off to work.. Have a nice day! |
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srt
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by srt on Nov 2, 2019 12:05:08 GMT -5
Thank you for your reply Todd. I did replace the DSP yesterday evening, but with 0.55 balls, and same issue still. fw shown in debug menu is just D with bunch of question marks.. (only 0.55mm ones left at the moment). Both chips I have are B version, most likely though the chip that came with the poor guys reflow attempt might be bad, I think I will retry with the original one during weekend. After the works I measured good resistance between the x-tal pins of 99k, so by that assumption the chip soldering went ok. Still nothing from serial.. Well, this amp was cheap, paid 15€ for it with remote, so no big loss.. I will replace it once again during weekend to the original that came with the amp, thumbs up.. Otherwise, I do really like the amps made by Onkyo, the menus are logical for me, remote is extensive with fast change buttons to modes etc. (Btw, sorry for my bad english and possibly grammar, not my mother tongue), and not using translator Well off to work.. Have a nice day! Please update what happend next? I will share you my experiance with dsp chip relalplacing , on diagnostic port you can check with multimeter, just measure the voltage at txd pin. If dsp chip is good or partially corrupted firmware nand, we can see voltage Variations at txd pin.That indicating dsp chip is ok.if nand chip fully corrupted then you will not see any changes on txd pin.I had successfully replaced dsp chip on onkyo 609, 616 and 1009. In these reciecer 609 and 1009 nand chip fully corrupted,but on 616 nand chip was partially corrupted,so I used putty to add the missing parameters in environmental variables. |
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