petem
New Member
Posts: 6
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Post by petem on Nov 3, 2019 3:26:47 GMT -5
Hi SRT. I have had no time to continue with this project, some other amps needed attention.. I did check with scope that there is something going on, but still, D with bunch of question marks in firmware... For now I have no access to NAND-flasher, and as this is a hobby, I would not like to buy one just for this. They seem to be quite expensive.. If there would be loads of more with these coming in for repair, then yes.. For now I have one destroyed 515 and one 616, 3rd 515 still running after repair, nice amp.. I am still waiting for new serial adapters, seems that shipping company has misplaced them somewhere in turkey  Also waiting for new .60 bga balls, maybe I try again with new flux that I just received.. BR Pete |
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Post by lfcfan on Apr 9, 2020 17:24:37 GMT -5
Hi team,
I have a NR-609 that has the failing HDMI card.
I have been reading endlessly about the topic, and I red the full 12 pages of this forum on how to repair it. I have been doing my own repairs on stuff like my TV and DVD player, etc but I really don't think that I'll be capable to 1. do the job myself as I don't have enough of the right equipment, and 2. it looks like only the people who have access to TI exclusive distribution network can get the right chip.
So I was wondering if there is anyone who is doing these repairs (against a fee of course), or who know someone or a company that will do it, like sending the board alone and they do the repair? I had a look online and it doesn't seem that anyone is offering this service. Any help or contact would be appreciated as I have this great amp sitting there doing nothing...
Cheers,
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Post by skarragallagher on Jun 3, 2020 1:17:50 GMT -5
Hi, First post... this thread is immensely helpful. I have Onkyo TX-NR515 that exhibits the symptoms of no audio, (no audio relay click i think as well) and no network (option is greyed out)
Sounds a lot like the DSP chip issue. I have tried heating it up and still no love and am thinking about attempting the reflow. I wanted to check the hours of service on the unit and can't seem to find the procedure. Is there a procedure on the NR515? Any help is appreciated
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Post by tibimakai on Jun 3, 2020 10:16:07 GMT -5
The DSP can be bad as well. It was a recall for the "B" ICs, and they suggest replacing with a newer "D" DSP IC.
I'm not aware of that procedure either.
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Post by tjmotter on Jun 3, 2020 20:58:42 GMT -5
Hi, First post... this thread is immensely helpful. I have Onkyo TX-NR515 that exhibits the symptoms of no audio, (no audio relay click i think as well) and no network (option is greyed out) Sounds a lot like the DSP chip issue. I have tried heating it up and still no love and am thinking about attempting the reflow. I wanted to check the hours of service on the unit and can't seem to find the procedure. Is there a procedure on the NR515? Any help is appreciated I posted a video on how to do this at this link:
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Post by skarragallagher on Jun 4, 2020 11:19:16 GMT -5
Thanks for that, unfortunately it has 21k hours so i am guessing the DSP chip is bad. I don't know if i have it in me to do a complete replacement of the DSP chip  |
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Post by svniceguy on Sept 28, 2020 20:05:31 GMT -5
I, too, have a TX-NR708 that I picked up recently off craigslist for $20. Only has 6900 hours on it. It has the "No sound" issue that seems to be common. If I go into the version check routine (DISPLAY+ON/STANDBY) versions for DSP 1st and DSP 2nd/NET show up as<3 question marks>/<5 or 6 question marks> (Sorry. Couldn't get question marks to show without turning into some kind of emoji with no numeric information. I did a system reset and that didn't help. I'm considering tackling the reflow for the DSP(s?) and see if that works. Worse comes to worse, if I can't get it fixed I can always use it as a 7.2 AMP. Which brings up another question: Has anyone ever decoded the commands and structure for communicating with the R2A15220FP audio front end switch/tone control chip? It uses, what appears to be, a fairly common I2C control interface. However, I have been unable to locate any in-depth data sheets that list commands that can be used. I found one for a much simpler R2A15908SP IC and, while I expect there are similarities (same mfg.), the R2A15220FP is a much more complex device. Also, I discovered there are a couple of debug modes for different functions in the 708. The 1st one you get to by going into the version read out (DISPLAY+ON/STANDBY) and then pressing either SETUP or DISPLAY again (I'll have to reconfirm this). The other mode appears to be a bit more sophisticated but I'll have to go back and recall how I got there. I have a TX-NR626 (that has been running great for the past 6+ years...knock on wood) and I used information in that Service Manual to make my way into the other debug modes for the 708. Would be interested to hear back from anyone who can offer some insight on any of this posting. Thanks in advance...Stay safe...cheers.... |
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Post by svniceguy on Oct 1, 2020 17:05:25 GMT -5
Bump! Is anyone out there and still monitoring this thread? Thx and cheers.... I, too, have a TX-NR708 that I picked up recently off craigslist for $20. Only has 6900 hours on it. It has the "No sound" issue that seems to be common. If I go into the version check routine (DISPLAY+ON/STANDBY) versions for DSP 1st and DSP 2nd/NET show up as<3 question marks>/<5 or 6 question marks> (Sorry. Couldn't get question marks to show without turning into some kind of emoji with no numeric information. I did a system reset and that didn't help. I'm considering tackling the reflow for the DSP(s?) and see if that works. Worse comes to worse, if I can't get it fixed I can always use it as a 7.2 AMP. Which brings up another question: Has anyone ever decoded the commands and structure for communicating with the R2A15220FP audio front end switch/tone control chip? It uses, what appears to be, a fairly common I2C control interface. However, I have been unable to locate any in-depth data sheets that list commands that can be used. I found one for a much simpler R2A15908SP IC and, while I expect there are similarities (same mfg.), the R2A15220FP is a much more complex device. Also, I discovered there are a couple of debug modes for different functions in the 708. The 1st one you get to by going into the version read out (DISPLAY+ON/STANDBY) and then pressing either SETUP or DISPLAY again (I'll have to reconfirm this). The other mode appears to be a bit more sophisticated but I'll have to go back and recall how I got there. I have a TX-NR626 (that has been running great for the past 6+ years...knock on wood) and I used information in that Service Manual to make my way into the other debug modes for the 708. Would be interested to hear back from anyone who can offer some insight on any of this posting. Thanks in advance...Stay safe...cheers.... |
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 2, 2020 10:37:16 GMT -5
This forum is very slow. Only Tjmotter would be able to help you, but it seems like, he is not showing up here anymore.
That style receiver, didn't suffer from bad capacitors, on the HDMI board?
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Post by svniceguy on Oct 5, 2020 10:28:38 GMT -5
This forum is very slow. Only Tjmotter would be able to help you, but it seems like, he is not showing up here anymore. That style receiver, didn't suffer from bad capacitors, on the HDMI board? - Appreciate your response. tjmotter seemed like he was *very* knowledgeable. Maybe he'll find some time to return at some point. Do you know if anyone has been able to contact him outside of this forum? As for bad caps...Onkyo has had problems with numerous iterations of the HDMI boards, bad caps problems being a main cause, so I wouldn't doubt that might be the issue. Is that where (HDMI board) the DSP devices are located, as well? As I mentioned in my posting, I cannot get any read (i.e. firmware version) from either of the DSP functions (not sure if it's 2 logical DSPs in the same package or 2 separate devices I suppose I could just spend the bucks on new caps and see if that changes things, before I venture into the reflow experiment... Thanks and cheers..... |
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 5, 2020 11:10:54 GMT -5
That version, has BGA HDMI IC?
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 10, 2020 20:41:30 GMT -5
I, too, have a TX-NR708 that I picked up recently off craigslist for $20. Only has 6900 hours on it. It has the "No sound" issue that seems to be common. If I go into the version check routine (DISPLAY+ON/STANDBY) versions for DSP 1st and DSP 2nd/NET show up as<3 question marks>/<5 or 6 question marks> (Sorry. Couldn't get question marks to show without turning into some kind of emoji with no numeric information. I did a system reset and that didn't help. I'm considering tackling the reflow for the DSP(s?) and see if that works. Worse comes to worse, if I can't get it fixed I can always use it as a 7.2 AMP. Which brings up another question: Has anyone ever decoded the commands and structure for communicating with the R2A15220FP audio front end switch/tone control chip? It uses, what appears to be, a fairly common I2C control interface. However, I have been unable to locate any in-depth data sheets that list commands that can be used. I found one for a much simpler R2A15908SP IC and, while I expect there are similarities (same mfg.), the R2A15220FP is a much more complex device. Also, I discovered there are a couple of debug modes for different functions in the 708. The 1st one you get to by going into the version read out (DISPLAY+ON/STANDBY) and then pressing either SETUP or DISPLAY again (I'll have to reconfirm this). The other mode appears to be a bit more sophisticated but I'll have to go back and recall how I got there. I have a TX-NR626 (that has been running great for the past 6+ years...knock on wood) and I used information in that Service Manual to make my way into the other debug modes for the 708. Would be interested to hear back from anyone who can offer some insight on any of this posting. Thanks in advance...Stay safe...cheers.... Apologies, I have been busy with other projects and haven't checked this forum much lately.
It sounds like one or more of the solderballs on the 708 have broken/cracked. A reflow is your best option. If you look at the chip you will see that it is aligned so that the bottom left corner designates Pin A1 (the orientation of the chip is east/west so the "A" portion of the grid is closest to the rear of the board). Pin B1 is a critical pin since it delivers the core voltage for this chip. There are a bunch of different voltages but the 1.2V on B1 is the most important. As such, try to make sure you get good heat into that area and it will probably fix your problem.
That system has the 300Mhz part. While they still wear out, I find that they are usually good for up to 30,000 hours. Unfortunately, those suckers were discontinued a long time ago so you will never find a new one but it shouldn't matter because with less than 10K on the system, it has a lot of life in it.
FWIW, Onkyo couldn't get these chips anymore either so the "official" service process is to upgrade the chip to a 400Mhz version but then tweak the code to get it to work at 300Mhz. The problem with this is that if you don't have that code, you will never get the 400Mhz version to work since it needs updates to both the main CPU as well as to the DSP firmware.
I have two of these systems. They are one of my favorites following only the NR818.
HTH Todd
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Post by tjmotter on Oct 10, 2020 20:43:05 GMT -5
I should add that your problem is most likely centered only on DSP1. DSP2 gets its boot command from DSP1 so if the first one doesn't boot the second one wont either. As such, focus your attention on trying to get the DSP1 fixed through that reflow.
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Post by tibimakai on Oct 12, 2020 10:05:10 GMT -5
Tj is back, yeahhh!!!
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Post by svniceguy on Nov 19, 2020 15:43:05 GMT -5
I should add that your problem is most likely centered only on DSP1. DSP2 gets its boot command from DSP1 so if the first one doesn't boot the second one wont either. As such, focus your attention on trying to get the DSP1 fixed through that reflow. UPDATE (A couple of hours later, same day):
Tried a reflow in the 708. Still no connection with the DSP chip ("  ?"). Any suggestions that might ensure a successful reflow? Higher temp? Longer heating cycle? Other? Thanks.
----------------------------------------------------------------
Appreciate you reading my post and providing a reply. Your delay caused my delay because I wasn't sure if I would get a response 
Your comment abt DSP 2nd kind of threw me for a moment because, even tho I saw that on the display in debug mode, I hadn't tried to figure out which chip it was. My 1st thought is there may have been 2 DSP devices in 1 pkg. I looked it up in the service manual and, lo and behold, there's a Cirrus Logic DSP chip which appears to be the DSP 2nd. Good news is the CS49834 is a quad flat pack so its pins are easy to examine.
I appreciate the suggestion of where to focus on reflow for the TI DSP (DSP 1st). It helps to know where the real problem may lie. However, my plan is to try and do a somewhat total reflow on the whole chip, just in case.
As a side note, I did a check voltages on all the power supplies located on the HDMI/DSP board and they all seemed to be in spec. I also bought a set of the closest replacement caps (105 Degrees C, of course) of the closest I could find just I case I need them. It looks like this unit may have been in for repair at some point because on the back/bottom side of the HDMI/DSP board someone replaced 3-pin fixed low drop-out linear voltage reg with a small board using an adjustable (configured using resistors) low drop-out linear voltage reg. Prob'ly someone too lazy or possibly the exact part was no longer available at the time. Tho, it outputs 3.3V (from 5VDC) and seems to be in spec.
While I have your attention for the moment, I also picked up a TX-SR705. It's one of the very early HDMI Onkyo receivers (similar amps but no network connections). This one uses the same, or similar, device (BGA, TI) but it uses TI's numbering (TMS320....) for their part no., not the D830K..... This unit also shows 3 DPS devices but only 1 seems to have the BGA pkg.
My question on this one is if you know anything abt the "gunshot" (kind of a loud bang sound) issue that happens when playing surround sound videos. It's been a while since I had this unit fired but, iirc, the problem seemed to arise as the unit heated up. I'm thinking this could also be a reflow project. As I mentioned it uses the TI DSP device (as DSP 1st, iirc). Any experience/insight on this?
Thx, cheers and stay safe....
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