My first post here. I already read some good info in different posts. But still some questions.
I have a second hand Onkyo TX-NR809. It was already advertised that hdmi inputs were not working. So after googlling and reading about the famous DSP chip problem I decided to buy it anyway. After first setup indeed the hdmi inputs were not working. (Stupid thing is that I haven’t tested every port at that time) So I went ahead and took off the DSP chip and reballed it. Also to be sure I replaced all the 100uF caps. After power on still no hdmi inputs. But what I noticed is that front hdmi and hdmi port 6 + 7 are working. So it gives me a usable unit at this point. But now for hdmi 1-5 I’m trying to figure out what is wrong. When I connect something to these ports I get a blue screen.
I download the service manual and what I noticed first is that hdmi 1 -5 have one thing in common, they are all connected to chip (SIl9489CTUC) where as hmdi front and hdmi 6 + 7 are not. You would easily assume that that must be the problem…but as ever in electronics it doesn’t have to be. It still might be another chip that has control lines to this chip.
Does anyone have experience with this chip, or does it sound like a familiar problem? I think I will order the chip anyway, but any suggestions on how to move forward on checks would be appreciated.
Todd is the expert on these, but if I'm not mistaken, there are two HDMI ICs in there, most likely one is shot. Not getting to hot? Maybe some voltage is missing to that IC?! When the HDMI chip is bad, you are not getting audio, or video. Also you don't have USB and network access, they are grayed out. To me, it seems like you have a different issue, that has nothing to do with the DSP chip.
I have seen this before and you are likely correct. Those SII chips do break down from time to time. IIRC there was a way to test for this and it required measuring the resistance of the primary voltage rail. When it drops too low, the chip is essentially dead. Afraid I don't recall the values I used to see but Tibimakai may recall.
These chips aren't too hard to replace but you do have to be careful because the center of the chip has a big ground lug on the bottom so much like the DSP, you have to mask off the area and hit it with a pile of heat until that solder under the pad releases. The second challenge is that when you pull this chip you will leave some solder on the chip and will need to add a small amount back to the pad so that the lug re-attaches. The way I do this is to add a touch of solder and then place the chip roughly in place. What I am looking for here is that if I hold one side down, I expect to see a 0.5-1mm gap on the other side. Once I have this gap, I lift the chip and apply some flux to the ground lug. Next, I carefully place the chip and solder 5 or 6 pins on each side of the "down" side of the chip (the other side will still be lifted by 0.5-1mm). Next, I reapply the heat wand to the chip and heat it until the "up" side settles down onto the pins. What this confirms is that the solder under the chip has melted and bonded to the ground lug. Once I achieve this step, I solder the rest of the pins down.
After I made this post last week I already went ahead and ordered the chip from China. Not sure how shipping goes with the current COVID situation. But i'll keep you posted when I have changed this chip. @todd thanks for the details on the ground lug. It will be my first bigger size chip with a ground pad. Normally i only hot air small chips on mobile phones and laptop boards.
When you remove it, make sure that you are not rushing the removal, you may rip off some traces. I have to find that thread, about the resistance. I don't remember which receiver was, with that issue, the RZ800?
Good point on traces. One trick I have used is to spread solder across all of the pins to tie them all together. In this way I can use a small pin to "poke" each side to make sure that the solder is all molten before I try to lift the chip off. The hassle with these ground lugs is that they can form a small vacuum that tends to make the chip feel like it is still tied down when in fact the solder is all molten so after checking that all of the solder bridges I made are truly molten I often resort to using the vacuum attachment and forcing a small "tug" to get the chip to release.
If you try this without creating the solder bridges first, there is a higher possibility that one or more of the traces will still be affixed causing a tear (as Tibimakai suggests).
skydronelink: Thank you I advance
Jan 29, 2020 4:01:41 GMT -5
skydronelink: Hi Repairaj, I have the same issue, but I am not able to get the cap value, I can tell it is the same board but deffirent rev cause of the side CAP is not the same value ! any idea how I can get the right burnt cap value?
Jan 29, 2020 4:01:31 GMT -5
skydronelink: Hello Jerme, thank you for the those images, is there is any chance to get the C2 (Cap) value or an image for it ? Thank you in advance.
Jan 27, 2020 23:15:06 GMT -5
skydronelink: Hello Sergio, I have the same issue, but I am not able to get the cap value, did find out what is the cap value?
Jan 26, 2020 18:01:17 GMT -5
jbmeyer13: Wolfy's Marquee isn't working? Did you spill a pint on it and short the MB?
Apr 25, 2019 8:32:28 GMT -5
wolfman: Always the same sarkasm Kurt that's why I never checked in until now. I knew you wouldn't give me a cheerful answer so let you hang for a while. Removed the last part you probably are a decent guy Eye to Eye.
Apr 19, 2019 18:55:30 GMT -5