morris
Junior Member
Posts: 37
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Post by morris on Mar 24, 2020 4:06:47 GMT -5
Hi all,
My first post here. I already read some good info in different posts. But still some questions.
I have a second hand Onkyo TX-NR809. It was already advertised that hdmi inputs were not working. So after googlling and reading about the famous DSP chip problem I decided to buy it anyway. After first setup indeed the hdmi inputs were not working. (Stupid thing is that I haven’t tested every port at that time) So I went ahead and took off the DSP chip and reballed it. Also to be sure I replaced all the 100uF caps. After power on still no hdmi inputs. But what I noticed is that front hdmi and hdmi port 6 + 7 are working. So it gives me a usable unit at this point. But now for hdmi 1-5 I’m trying to figure out what is wrong. When I connect something to these ports I get a blue screen.
I download the service manual and what I noticed first is that hdmi 1 -5 have one thing in common, they are all connected to chip (SIl9489CTUC) where as hmdi front and hdmi 6 + 7 are not. You would easily assume that that must be the problem…but as ever in electronics it doesn’t have to be. It still might be another chip that has control lines to this chip.
Does anyone have experience with this chip, or does it sound like a familiar problem? I think I will order the chip anyway, but any suggestions on how to move forward on checks would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Morris
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Post by tibimakai on Mar 30, 2020 12:13:21 GMT -5
Todd is the expert on these, but if I'm not mistaken, there are two HDMI ICs in there, most likely one is shot. Not getting to hot? Maybe some voltage is missing to that IC?! When the HDMI chip is bad, you are not getting audio, or video. Also you don't have USB and network access, they are grayed out. To me, it seems like you have a different issue, that has nothing to do with the DSP chip.
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 31, 2020 13:36:56 GMT -5
I have seen this before and you are likely correct. Those SII chips do break down from time to time. IIRC there was a way to test for this and it required measuring the resistance of the primary voltage rail. When it drops too low, the chip is essentially dead. Afraid I don't recall the values I used to see but Tibimakai may recall.
These chips aren't too hard to replace but you do have to be careful because the center of the chip has a big ground lug on the bottom so much like the DSP, you have to mask off the area and hit it with a pile of heat until that solder under the pad releases. The second challenge is that when you pull this chip you will leave some solder on the chip and will need to add a small amount back to the pad so that the lug re-attaches. The way I do this is to add a touch of solder and then place the chip roughly in place. What I am looking for here is that if I hold one side down, I expect to see a 0.5-1mm gap on the other side. Once I have this gap, I lift the chip and apply some flux to the ground lug. Next, I carefully place the chip and solder 5 or 6 pins on each side of the "down" side of the chip (the other side will still be lifted by 0.5-1mm). Next, I reapply the heat wand to the chip and heat it until the "up" side settles down onto the pins. What this confirms is that the solder under the chip has melted and bonded to the ground lug. Once I achieve this step, I solder the rest of the pins down.
HTH Todd
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morris
Junior Member
Posts: 37
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Post by morris on Mar 31, 2020 17:02:52 GMT -5
Thanks for the info guys. After I made this post last week I already went ahead and ordered the chip from China. Not sure how shipping goes with the current COVID situation. But i'll keep you posted when I have changed this chip. todd thanks for the details on the ground lug. It will be my first bigger size chip with a ground pad. Normally i only hot air small chips on mobile phones and laptop boards. br Maurice
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Post by tjmotter on Mar 31, 2020 17:04:23 GMT -5
if you have trouble sourcing one let me know. I might have a couple lying around and since I don't fix Receivers much anymore, I could let them go.
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Post by tibimakai on Apr 1, 2020 11:15:18 GMT -5
When you remove it, make sure that you are not rushing the removal, you may rip off some traces. I have to find that thread, about the resistance. I don't remember which receiver was, with that issue, the RZ800?
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Post by tjmotter on Apr 1, 2020 14:41:25 GMT -5
Good point on traces. One trick I have used is to spread solder across all of the pins to tie them all together. In this way I can use a small pin to "poke" each side to make sure that the solder is all molten before I try to lift the chip off. The hassle with these ground lugs is that they can form a small vacuum that tends to make the chip feel like it is still tied down when in fact the solder is all molten so after checking that all of the solder bridges I made are truly molten I often resort to using the vacuum attachment and forcing a small "tug" to get the chip to release.
If you try this without creating the solder bridges first, there is a higher possibility that one or more of the traces will still be affixed causing a tear (as Tibimakai suggests).
I don't recall if it was the RZ800... Sorry
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Post by tibimakai on Apr 2, 2020 10:14:41 GMT -5
It wasn't around 3 ohms?
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Post by tjmotter on Apr 2, 2020 18:28:30 GMT -5
IIRC if the impedance between the voltage rail and ground was approaching 50ohms, the chip was bad. A good chip measured closer to 80 ohms
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morris
Junior Member
Posts: 37
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Post by morris on Apr 17, 2020 14:52:18 GMT -5
Alright, good news to report I received the SII chip from china. Soldered it on today and everything is working now. Thanks for the extra info on the ground lug pad. Still a bit tricky to get the other pins exactly aligned, but I managed. I have a fully functioning nr809 now. Feels good haha Still waiting for the DSP chip for the 616. Thanks or the help guys. br Maurice
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Post by tjmotter on Apr 17, 2020 19:53:28 GMT -5
GREAT JOB!!
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morris
Junior Member
Posts: 37
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Post by morris on Apr 18, 2020 5:02:27 GMT -5
Well....I cheered too early. I did some random port testing and posted here already. This morning I was testing it on each port. Now port 3 was not working (remember this chip is for input 1-5) Still a chip left and soldered that one on. Now hdmi 5 is not working and three is. Trust me I went over every connection to make sure that no leg from the chip was not properly soldered. What I have ordered is three chips from china....from two vendors. The single chip from the first vendor wasn't working at all. And from the second vendor one chip hdmi 3 is not working and the other chip hdmi 5 port is not working.....I really get the feeling that these are chips that didn't make it through QC and somehow got in the hands of a aliexpress vendor. It's just so frustrating with these china vendors...bleh. I wish i could find a shop that just would sell me good chips. So now I have to find another seller and hope for the best they have working ones. And b.t.w. I didn't even go for the cheapest ones on there...already avoided them thinking they are no good by default. This doesn't give me a lot of confidence about the DSP chip that is on its way hehe. But Todd, you already warned me about this.
O well at least the problem is known EDIT: Sorry, sorry....my bad. I feel I have to be honest here. Apparently all those screws on the hdmi port are not only mechanically important, but also electrically. They didn't make proper ground contact and it messed up the communication. Boy do I feel stupid now. This covid lockdown is messing with me in my head now haha. So all ports working. I will finish up this unit and start using it...My apologies to that second vendor that delivered working chips... Now....don't wanna talk about it anymore br Maurice
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Post by tjmotter on Apr 18, 2020 7:25:54 GMT -5
yup. I always install at least 2 screws in HDMI ports (MAIN OUT and HDMI1) just to make sure I have a solid ground plane before powering on a system.
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Post by tibimakai on Apr 20, 2020 10:30:46 GMT -5
Great job!! I install screws for each HDMI chip, to have ground. At least two, or three. Tod, I'm working on an old Pioneer VSX-820k. Won't turn on.
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Post by tjmotter on Apr 20, 2020 15:12:58 GMT -5
I have never worked on a Pioneer unit. Good luck!
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