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Post by jeremy on Jul 25, 2014 9:42:28 GMT -5
So MT, as you probably know, I acquired this projector from crabb. I have it running right now, and its doing exactly the same thing as it was for crabb. I see the C board on it, and I'm ready to attempt the impossible First things first before I hack it apart to get the board out. The ram chips, if they are bad (or the eeprom etc...) can they be ordered? I'm not paying sony $981 for a board that goes into a $500 machine, and im sure the C-board can be repaired. So far while its running it has not glitched back to normal or anything, so I am suspecting a bad chip itself, and not solder contacts, bumping the projector around doesn't make the image change, and I did pull all the ribbon cables and re-seat them to eliminate the possibility of dust. Seems to have a new lamp in it, its nice and bright, would make a great spare PJ if I can get this thing going!
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Post by jeremy on Jul 25, 2014 9:53:17 GMT -5
I MAY have found a guy who parted his projector out because he couldn't find good looking plastics for it, I inquired about A-1186-985 C board and hope he replies saying he has it still. I will keep posted
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Post by mastertech on Jul 25, 2014 11:16:23 GMT -5
If you do not get a replacement board and you feel adventuress you can try swapping those ram chips and see if something changes. Take a pic of some images before you do so you have something to compare to.
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Post by mastertech on Jul 25, 2014 11:23:45 GMT -5
Are ic200 and ic201 socketed?
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Post by jeremy on Jul 25, 2014 14:20:22 GMT -5
MT, Not sure on if they are socketed, but I'm going to guess not. I haven't taken mine out yet.
I got a reply back from the guy who parted his projector out, he DOES have the board, and he's willing to sell it for $100. I'm going to nab it and hopefully that will take care of the issue.
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Post by mastertech on Jul 25, 2014 14:48:37 GMT -5
What is sad is that the problem part may only be a .50 cent part, lol.
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Post by jeremy on Jul 25, 2014 15:18:44 GMT -5
What is sad is that the problem part may only be a .50 cent part, lol. Well, if it is, I can still attempt to repair it, then I'll have a spare board for it (which probably wouldn't be a bad thing with this projector). Is the part an IC? That's pretty cheap if it is lol
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Post by mastertech on Jul 25, 2014 15:25:51 GMT -5
Oh, I have no idea of what part is bad yet. You have to find it, lol. But I do see that board has a bunch of 1117 regulators and then are known to go bad.
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Post by jeremy on Jul 25, 2014 16:48:55 GMT -5
Oh, I have no idea of what part is bad yet. You have to find it, lol. But I do see that board has a bunch of 1117 regulators and then are known to go bad. Well I'll get the board anyway, it could be useful in diagnosing the bad board as well so it would be worth having for that too. I just need the guy to reply and I can get the ball rolling.
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Post by jeremy on Aug 7, 2014 10:24:53 GMT -5
Okay, the new board is out for delivery today, so I decided to pull the bad C-board out, that was no easy task! Anyway, looking at the old board, it looks beautiful, as in, nothing visually appears to be fried, nothing even seems to have gotten hot. I see the 2 big Sony IC's and 6 smaller Sony IC's, and there are 2 Etrontech IC's that look like memory chip ICs. I'm willing to bet that the issue is merely needing a reflow, since the lines in the display are quite a similar issue to faulty video cards I've seen that you could bend and the lines would go away. I haven't tried bending this board or any of that, since like I said, I'm pretty sure its just in need of a reflow. Problem is, I do not have the equipment for a reflow, and I am hesitant to put this board in the oven, since its a bit more rare that a PC video card or motherboard.
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Post by Admin on Aug 13, 2014 9:08:34 GMT -5
So what's the scoop?
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Post by jeremy on Aug 19, 2014 21:38:37 GMT -5
I'm happy to report the Pearl is back in full working operation! The replacement board is working nicely, and I have the old one still so I can mess with it. It projects a great image, almost perfect. The only thing I can notice is the blue LCoS Panel is off to the right of the red & green by 1.2-1.5 pixels. Hardly much but I noticed it during an all white screen.
I have to admit, though not the most complicated digital I've worked on, its not as simple as many out there to work on, but it is doable with patience and a good memory
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