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Post by serafis on Jan 24, 2022 3:59:35 GMT -5
I have an Onkyo TX-NR414 that appears completely dead (no display, no LEDs, no buttons work). The SMPS is working and standby power to the HDMI board is fine (+12V and +9V). The outputs from the regulators in the POWER SUPPLY section of the attached schematic (highlighted in yellow) are correct at 1.8V, 3.3V and 5.2V respectively. The main power relay is fine too. However, the 3.3V regulator that supplies power to the MPU (Q702 in the attached schematic in the POWER SUPPLY(STBY) section, highlighted in red) is showing only around 0.8V on its output pin (input pin is 5V), and the resistance between its Output pin and Gnd pins is less than 2.5 ohms which seems far too low. I temporarily removed that regulator, but the resistance between its output and Gnd pads remains the same the same, so I suspect the problem is elsewhere. Also, but not necessarily related or an issue, the +12V pins on JL801B and P802 read only around 5.5V, although the cathode side of Schottky D8962 (12V STBY, highlighted in green) reads 12V. I'm not sure what the purpose of this diode is. And D182 (highlighted in blue) gets quite warm. From the schematic, I've measured those components I can in situ but haven't found anything obvious. I'm beginning to suspect a faulty MPU, in which case repair would be way beyond my skills, but I don't want to junk the receiver unless I have to! So I'd really welcome any advice as to how to diagnose the issues further and whether they are fixable. Thanks, Jon.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 24, 2022 11:58:31 GMT -5
What is the location id of the 3.3v regulator at issue?
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Post by serafis on Jan 24, 2022 13:29:03 GMT -5
It's marked in red, a little right of center towards the bottom of the schematic, in the section marked "POWER SUPPLY (STB)". The schematic can be zoomed a lot more if the original image is downloaded from the postimg site. The 3.3v rail goes up to a number of points around the MPU and connects to a number of its pins.
Physically, it's on the bottom of the board just about in the center on the edge opposite the HDMI sockets.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 24, 2022 14:12:34 GMT -5
I do not like to guess on what components are being discussed. So please use location id's any more.
So I pulled a schematic on this unit and have been looking it over.
I am guessing that D182 was getting warm when the 3.3v regulator was installed. Does it still get warm with the regulator out?
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Post by serafis on Jan 24, 2022 17:56:16 GMT -5
Yes, D182 is warm when the regulator is installed, but not when it is removed.
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Post by mastertech on Jan 24, 2022 19:17:52 GMT -5
D182 was probably getting warm because of the current drain on Q702 from whatever the short is. I see that besides Q702 powering the CPU (Q701) it also powers Q7020, Q704, and Q153. Any of these being shorted could cause a drain on that rail. There are also a whole lot of resistors and capacitors on that line. Resistors you can generally rule out as long as their value is above at least 1k. Capacitors however can surely cause a short.
Now I do not know how many of these components are on top of the board that you can check while unit is powered. But I usually check for very warm parts in a case like this. The shorted part should be getting warm so you could feel around. You would have to put that regulator back in to test. The regulator was probably getting warm to hot also.
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Post by serafis on Jan 25, 2022 3:39:21 GMT -5
I have the board lifted so I can check both sides. Q703 also gets very warm, probably for the same reason as D182. I can't feel any other warm areas or components on either side of the board so no luck there. I desoldered the Gnd pin on Q153, but the short remained on the board. I could try the same on the other ICs on this rail, but I think trying to remove and replace each tiny capacitor to try and find a shorted one would be beyond me.
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