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Post by user10298453 on May 5, 2023 20:36:10 GMT -5
Hello all. So the title basically says it all. I'm trying to fix a TX-NR616 with a bad DSP chip. From what I've heard, in order to diagnose the issue, the chip should be heated up and if it works then the problem is with the DSP chip. I've tried to use a hot air station and heat up my board at around 200-300 C but no luck. This seems weird because I'm almost certain the DSP is bad since it's the most common mode of failure on these models and the firmware screen shows a "D" followed by a few question marks. So now the question is, is there a problem with the DSP chip itself? Or is there a problem with a storage controller somewhere which doesn't allow it to boot into an OS? If the problem is with the DSP, will I need any special programming to replace it? If the issue is with the DSP, what is a good way to get my hands on "D" rev chips which are apparently fixed? I know I'll likely have to buy broken boards from somewhere and hope that they failed for a reason other than a dead DSP. From what I've read on this forum, there are some very knowledgeable people on here so I'd appreciate any help!
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Post by xXFREDBERTXx on May 6, 2023 5:18:23 GMT -5
Hey,
your 616 fail most likely on a dead DSP or faulty Firmware inside the NAND or missing voltage somewhere is also possible…
You need also practice to diagnose these issue and also need than not cheap tools to fix it 😉
In my opinion is the 616 not worth it to fit a real genuine D revision DSP on it because these DSP is more worth than the hole amp 😉
Regards
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Post by user10298453 on May 6, 2023 13:31:11 GMT -5
Hello, thanks for your response. In terms of tools, I have a hot air station, soldering iron, microscope, and multimeter for diagnosing any issues. Would you have any pointers as to what resources I can use for diagnosing the fault? Also, I want to take this on more as a project as opposed to something profitable so I don't really care if it's not too practical in terms of cost to get a "D" rev chip. As long as I can get a solid life out of it. Now in order to get a "D" or even "B" rev chip, I've heard the only way to reliably get working ones is to rip them off of dead boards and reball them. I'm not very comfortable with that since as I said before, I don't even know if the chip works in the first place. Is there any way to get known good D or B rev chips off of anywhere?
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Post by xXFREDBERTXx on May 6, 2023 14:15:24 GMT -5
When you heat up the DSP already and it is again only dead than I would say dead DSP or faulty NAND or Data in it!
Good luck to find a genuine D revision DSP all these claimed genuine ones on AliExpress, Ebay or Amazon you can buy are 1000% Fakes!
You need a Programmer to read or compare the Firmware data in your 616 to say if it is fine or not…
If not and it have bad blocks or corruption in these files the Amp is silent forever when you not find a genuine dump Firmware from someone…
Even a genuine 100% working DSP would not work when you have issue in these NAND!
All in all we’re a 616 only good for practice in my opinion sorry to say that but these amp was even @ the release only low end…
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Post by user10298453 on May 6, 2023 14:56:48 GMT -5
Would you happen to know which boards I can look for which have the D rev chip (model D830K013DZKB4)?
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Post by xXFREDBERTXx on May 6, 2023 16:49:11 GMT -5
When the NAND or the FW inside it is bad what is now a 50/50 chance on your 616 than would not fix a 100% working B or D Version DSP the Amp ☝️
It were even after a DSP swap out SILENT again ✌️
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Post by user10298453 on May 6, 2023 18:15:52 GMT -5
I would assume that the best way to find out whether it's the DSP chip or the NAND inside would be to swap out the DSP chip and if it's still broken then it would be the firmware. That's how I think I should proceed anyway if there isn't a better solution.
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Post by xXFREDBERTXx on May 6, 2023 19:00:46 GMT -5
When you get a genuine B or D Version DSP sure…
But than you must reball it first good luck without knowledge or skill you maybe destroy the DSP @ these reball process 😉
Otherwise buy a Programmer with NAND adapter and read the NAND out but these is not a cheap tool to buy 😉
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Post by user10298453 on May 6, 2023 19:03:07 GMT -5
I guess I'll bite the bullet and attempt a reball of a DSP chip and if it works then my problem is solved and if it doesn't work I guess I'll just scrap the whole thing. Since it's more than likely that the DSP chip has failed as I see many examples of them on the internet. I just need to know how to source a good DSP and from what boards I can pull them off from.
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Post by xXFREDBERTXx on May 6, 2023 19:27:01 GMT -5
Your error you describe is 50% dead B DSP or 50% bad NAND or Data in it 😉
You must buy another working amp to salvage the DSP out reball it than and fit again on your 616…
When you have fun on such thinks go for it ☺️
But in my opinion is a 616 it not worth…
Have you solder balls in stock to reball a DSP were the next question I have 😉
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Post by user10298453 on May 6, 2023 19:36:14 GMT -5
I don't have any solder balls or paste but I am willing to buy some to try this out if the price is right. Should I first try to remove and reball the existing DSP? Could that fix the issue at all?
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Post by xXFREDBERTXx on May 6, 2023 20:22:11 GMT -5
I say it now the third time when the NAND or Data in it is faulty the Amp is silent also after you fit a 100% working DSP…
What for solder balls you buy than when you „try“ it out 🧐
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Post by user10298453 on May 6, 2023 21:02:06 GMT -5
I am aware. I am saying I can try to fit a working DSP and if it works then I know the DSP was faulty and if it doesn't work then I know that the firmware is faulty and I can proceed accordingly from there.
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Post by xXFREDBERTXx on May 7, 2023 3:55:13 GMT -5
I guess that your NAND or FW is already corrupted or bad…
Because normally came these old B DSP alive after a short reheat for some minutes…
You can fit „new“ DSP all day in and out so many you want the AMP is dead and silent forever with a bad NAND ☝️
And all „new“ claimed DSP you can buy on the market are old self pulled one‘s that are already dead… these get than a nice sand down and a scam fake reprint and new solder balls ☝️
When you have fun to waist your time on that „new“ claimed DSP’s go for it 👍
The best and successful way we’re to read out the NAND first check it and if corrupted replace it… than can stay even the old B inside that amp because these is than not the problem child that cause now the issue you have 😉
Otherwise if the NAND reads fine you need a second working amp we’re you must pull these working DSP than and reball it than yourself ☝️
All in all not less time you spent than on a 616 only…
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Post by user10298453 on May 7, 2023 10:53:54 GMT -5
How could I go about reading the nand and where would the nand be?
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