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Post by gregstv on May 21, 2016 2:30:38 GMT -5
I have been playing with the neck boards today. I found that adding a 2.2uf ceramic cap to the plus and minus rail on the OPA688 amp reduced even more noise. I did the blue first and looking into the lens the noise is now almost gone. If you check the Burr Brown OPA688 datasheet these caps are recommended to be fitted in parallel with the.1 cap. Barco fitted the .1 but not the 2.2uf. I also made up back shields for them. I will post some pictures later. Burr Brown recommended filtering diagram attached.
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Post by gregstv on May 21, 2016 2:14:04 GMT -5
The newer revision of board with SEOS 311 firmware has voltage menu.
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Post by gregstv on May 19, 2016 2:42:00 GMT -5
I have a late revision controller board (the one with the change to the -9volt regulator) that was faulty. I am sharing my findings. Maybe someone will have a simular problem one day.
The fault,
The PJ would fire up as normal. after the hour glass a blurry picture would come up. The bottom part of the picture would flash on and off. A bit like blanking After about 30 seconds it would blow the 3.15 amp fuse in the main power supply. The front ASTIG STK392-110 was very hot. The controller had a note on it when I received it that the ASTIG drive was faulty.
Testing, By disconnecting the ASTIG I could get it to run normally. Isolated down to the 6 pole ASTIG J653. I checked all the components around I56 (6 pole ASTIG driver amp) and all measured fine. Next I changed I56 but this didn't fix the problem. Next step was to disconnect the DAC (I55) from I56 by removing the 3 x 100ohm in line resistors.(R219,R214,R209) The PJ runs fine with these resistors removed.
So next I made the decision to remove a DAC from an earlier controller and fit it to this one. Refitted the 3 resistors and now the board works perfectly. I would say an arc may of caused the DAC damage. I also replaced all the caps on the board. These later boards run so much cooler. I will be fitting this board to the 919 on the weekend.
Greg
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Post by gregstv on May 15, 2016 2:02:06 GMT -5
am using PT18 tubes.
I might try a P16 and see if it makes a difference.
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Post by gregstv on May 14, 2016 20:00:18 GMT -5
Hi Guys, Has anyone played with a 908? 9 series boards with 8inch tubes. I have built one as my test jig but I am getting a bit of smearing. I am thinking its a issue between the 9 inch neck board and the 8 inch tubes. Was the a special neck board for these units? Thanks, Greg
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Post by gregstv on May 12, 2016 3:55:04 GMT -5
Finally got the chip. Changed it and all working again.
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Post by gregstv on Apr 18, 2016 3:11:46 GMT -5
Great stuff. I don't get it when some people don't want to recap projectors. For a couple of hundred dollars its worth every cent. I would not be surprised if this stops a lot of faults occurring. It really brings the chassis back up like new. They do the same thing with audio gear and get great results.
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Post by gregstv on Apr 18, 2016 2:18:51 GMT -5
And thanks back for your kind words. I would say rather holder than user, my 909 are currently stored I live in Germany. BTW the list is about the orginal caps Barco used, not the caps I ordered. What type did you order? I used all Panasonic FR and FM in the SMPS, the difference is pretty significant to the way it was. For one it had stopped working properly, it would show a fan fail error after 30 seconds and then shut down, found the 2 470uF 50v capacitors related to this on the sub board were leaking. Secondly, the voltage drift of the 17v line was huge, more than 1v between a black screen and full white, now it is around 0.3v at the most. Its made quite a difference to the stability of everything else too. Welcome to the forum It does make the projector much more stable. After I finished my SEOS 808 it was rock solid. Now working my way through the 919. I guess we need to remember a lot of these projectors have over 20,000 hours on them. The control board on my 919 has clocked over 50,000 hours. Its the next board I will recap.
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Post by gregstv on Apr 18, 2016 2:09:30 GMT -5
Thanks, This didn't come up in my search. I think I need to make sure I do a world wide search when I am on eBay. I have ordered 2.
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Post by gregstv on Apr 17, 2016 6:51:41 GMT -5
Seems unlikely the splitter would do that to the inputs. Does HDMI audio input still operate or nothing at all? No audio or video. Just blue screen.
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Post by gregstv on Apr 17, 2016 0:52:13 GMT -5
Thanks,
Checked all these and the rails and they are all ok. I did a search for the chip and had no luck.
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Post by gregstv on Apr 16, 2016 20:44:22 GMT -5
Thanks Mastertech,
I have done some more testing. The front HDMI port still works. So I tried port 6 and 7 and they worked. I just reassigned them as there is no direct input for them. I can assign ports 6 and 7 to any of the inputs and the work. Ports 1 to 5 are not detecting HDMI. On the front panel every input is analog until you plug a HDMI signal into them. They change to HDMI once detected. All this switching is done through the SI19489CTUC chip. Can you tell me where the HDMI input detection is done? Is it in the same chip? Do you have a service manual?
Thanks, Greg
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Post by gregstv on Apr 16, 2016 18:59:51 GMT -5
Hi Guys,
My main amp has a problem. I think I caused it. I plugged in a $25 splitter between the DVD player and the HDMI input. As soon as I did I got a blue screen. I have done a reset and left it off overnight but still no go. All on screen menus work fine so I think I may of lost a rail or something to the HDMI input chips. No HDMI input works. Any ideas or does anyone have a service manual?
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Post by gregstv on Apr 16, 2016 15:58:37 GMT -5
Swap it for the red and see if the problem moves
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Post by gregstv on Apr 10, 2016 3:57:09 GMT -5
I checked a few caps in the power supply today and found C600 on the small board the leaking.
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