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Post by thespianator on Nov 2, 2021 19:57:43 GMT -5
Hello all! Great to see this board is still functioning! I picked up some speakers and got this receiver as a throw-in, because the display doesn't always light up, and occasionally it will come on briefly when the front panel is repeatedly tapped on.
It's a decently rated receiver with 130W/ channel, so I'd like to get it working even if I have to render it into a power amp only.
Figuring it's a bad connection somewhere I've been looking for bad solders, etc. Today I actually got the PC board out and there is a pin connector that looked a bit tarnished, so I cleaned it with DeOxit but no cigar.
Any suggestions? Could it be an IC that's going south, or a cap about to fail completely? I don't see anything that looks obvious, and this display has multiple ribbon connectors to it that are soldered in.
I would prefer not to kill it while fixing it (don't you hate when that happens?), I could use some help. Any ideas out there?
Thanks for your responses.
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Post by thespianator on Apr 16, 2021 21:04:46 GMT -5
Finally, after first getting misinformation from ASUS about the CMOS battery being on the back side of the motherboard (it wasn't), then a refusal to advise (because I would have been "modifying" it and they don't support that), then insisting I ship a laptop 3+ years out of warranty to a service center on the east coast to be checked and repaired, I finally got some info from a kind ASUS tech who advised that - he didn't know where it was, but he presumed that it is fed by the main battery somehow. I've been waiting a few days to let all the stress over this thing drain out of me before I attempted a re-assemble, which I wouldn't have had to do if ASUS had just given me the correct info in the first place, and I'm not even sure that the info is correct. I'll find out after I reassemble it and install a new SSD and it then works!
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Post by thespianator on Apr 10, 2021 21:04:08 GMT -5
Been looking for the CMOS battery for hours. Not on www.insidemylaptop.com. or www.Ifixit.com Not on ASUS website, not on YouTube. Ifixit had a nice disassembly tutorial that does not mention the CMOS battery at all. I did find a pic online of the CMOS cable, which leads into the touchscreen case, which shows no screws. HELP!!!!, please.
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Post by thespianator on Feb 28, 2021 1:00:23 GMT -5
My Blue Yeti died and I can see some fried components on the PCB. Does anyone know if there is a schematic or component map that gives the values? I need to know what are L1, L2, L3 next to the USB port on my YETI. Unfortunately I'm not all that well versed in reading or replacing surface mount parts. Thanks for any assistance or referral.
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Post by thespianator on Nov 5, 2020 21:32:55 GMT -5
Well, folks, sad that this board has become so quiet, but I have a solution to the above so I will post it, since there are probably others with similar issues.
On AK, there is the only solution I know of: Convert this 5 channel 150 WPC great sounding receiver into a power amp only, by removing the digital section and adding a few resistors and, of course, RCA jacks.
I'll be doing this in the next few days and will post this for the benefit of anyone with a similar issue.
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Post by thespianator on Aug 21, 2020 11:30:09 GMT -5
Static Electricity has killed many a component. BUT! after the reset, did you make sure the speakers were enabled and the inputs assigned properly, etc? This sounds obvious but after a reset EVERYTHING has to be reprogrammed. Another thing to slowly check is with a good flashlight, a magnifying glass and a bunch of patience, is whether any board component may have been physically damaged when you vacuumed it out. Take your time. Did you bend any components out of the way? Maybe you disturbed a connecting cable between boards or perhaps where a board plugs in. Also, do you get sound out of the headphones? That's about all I can think of, maybe some of the heavyweights here will chime in.
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Post by thespianator on Aug 12, 2020 13:51:00 GMT -5
Replying to my own thread for the sake of closure.
The laser was bad, so I bought a replacement on Ebay and magically, the new laser jumped out of the box, kicked out the old one, and then installed itself. Unit works fine now.
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Post by thespianator on Aug 12, 2020 13:46:17 GMT -5
Hello, What you didn't specify was whether or not the unit produced sound prior to your vacuuming it out. Was the unit powered up at the time? These electronics are very sensitive to electrostatic charges, which is why canned air is the best way to clean out a unit, along with a new small soft paintbrush, provided the unit has been powered down long enough for the charges to drain out and you stay away from the ICs and brush carefully not to create static charges.
One thing you might try is a Factory Reset. Look that up in the owners manual, and if you don't have one go to Hifiengine.com and download it. There is a combination of buttons that, when pressed, will reset the microprocessor. Kind of like a cold boot on a computer.
To be blunt, the HT series of any manufacturer is typically a cheaper line designed for the mass Home Theater market, and are usually stripped down versions of their better quality stuff. This means that you would be well advised not to put any real money into it.
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Post by thespianator on Aug 6, 2020 16:42:51 GMT -5
These powered speakers have sat for years waiting for me to use after I had them repaired some time back, and of course now there is no warranty. I'm just SMH over this. One speaker works fine, the other is kinda scratchy plus the woofer shows much more movement in and out than the good one. I have no idea where to start. Anyone have any idea? Much appreciated.
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Post by thespianator on Jul 18, 2020 16:03:04 GMT -5
Hiya All, Been a long time since I was here, and I trust everyone is adapting. I have this B&K AVR 305 that powers up, but doesn't move out of a "0" on the display. The sleep button will illuminate after a short while.
I have tried a Factory Reset per the manual by pressing SLEEP, DOWN, and MENU for at least a minute. Nothing happens except for a quick flash of some red symbols on two buttons and a brief flash of some red stuff on the display. I've repeated this several times with no success.
Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong or how to proceed from here? Fortunately HiFi Engine has schematics but no troubleshooting guide. Thanks, and I hope this board is still functioning.
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Post by thespianator on Aug 28, 2018 12:59:30 GMT -5
Greetings, haven't been here for a while. I was doing some maintenance on my Arcam DV-88, which I use as a CD player, but seldom. The belt was bad, so I replaced it, and found that the CD played like it was dirty and there were pops and electrical sounds. I cleaned the CD and ran a cleaning disk on the laser, but the CD sound didn't improve. Just for grins, I put in a DVD-Audio disk and it played perfectly and sounded great. The question is....what's wrong with the CD side of things? The unit has only one laser, so it has to be good, right? I was guessing something to do with the wiring from the transport to elsewhere but didn't see anything obvious. A couple of pics are included. Just got the SM from Electrotanya, and unfortunately that's no help to me, maybe to someone with more expertise in digital players. Thanks for any enlightenment on this thing. It's a good sounding unit for CDs and it plays DVD-Audio, which my Sony player won't.
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Post by thespianator on May 12, 2017 11:12:59 GMT -5
I've watched a number of YouTube videos on how to build one of these. Pretty simple. I'd like to build one, but with a Pure Sine Wave Inverter (rather than the modified sine wave) so that I can use it for electronics should (or when) the SHTF. or there is a power outage. The inverter seems like the heart and soul of a Solar Generator (of course, so does the solar panel and the battery.) There are tons of inverters out there, and I'm watching this 5000 watt version on ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/222351627548?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITThing is, how do I discern whether or not it's a good one? What are the key points to consider? What parts / properties should it have for longevity? I'm figuring that with an oversized inverter like this one, I could have an upgrade path and add a second 100 watt Renogy solar panel (should I use monocrystaline rather than poly) and a second AGM battery as may be necessary. I also see that the two panels could be run in series or parallel. Which is better? Opinions and options are welcome, thanks in advance to all.
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Post by thespianator on Mar 16, 2017 23:07:42 GMT -5
I've been driving a very faithful 2004 Toyota Highlander since new. Lately there's been some weird stuff going on with the drivers side automatic door lock, the window and the main locking switch.
Actually I've had an ongoing issue with the driver door lock - the key fob rarely works to operate the drivers lock (but occasionally does). (All three other door locks function fine at all times) Usually the lock button moves partially but not enough to close and lock the door. Recently the window intermittently doesn't open/close fully without holding the switch down. Sometimes it's a little chattery.
Sometimes when I get in I hear the doors try to lock (but they never fully lock), and I haven't even pressed any buttons at all, either on the fob or the door. Sounds like it's possessed, doesn't it? Hopefully it's just a dirty relay somewhere. But where that relay is or if there even is one is a mystery to me.
Regarding the driver lock, I've done some research and there is a small electrical plunger motor that is available on eBay (depending on length of plunger) for around $10-12. If bought from Toyota one can only get the entire assembly for around $250 plus the labor to take the door apart and install is about another $250-300. Naturally I'd be doing this myself, if I can be sure that's what's wrong. Taking the door apart from the inside is a chore, to be sure. There are, fortunately, a few videos online about how to do this.
I've read that if the plunger is bad then one would hear it strain. I don't hear a thing, even when the door lock button only moves partially. Now with these other recent symptoms I'm wondering if there is a relay somewhere that's dirty or corroded.
Has anyone had similar issues with this? I've both changed the coin battery in the key fob and also tried the second key fob (car came with two) with a new battery. No success.
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Post by thespianator on Jan 16, 2017 18:40:54 GMT -5
Hi, I've gotten a few high end remotes, and the person I bought them from doesn't respond to my requests for help. They are an MX980 and an MX3000. The URC website won't allow me in to download editing software or whatever I would need to update these to control my own equipment.
Can anyone here assist in either logging in or somewhere else I could obtain the software needed to make these remotes work?
Thanks!
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Post by thespianator on Dec 4, 2016 14:56:02 GMT -5
3-4 ohms ESR reading might be fine if that cap is quite small, need to get a chart to see what readings should be, and base your findings and theories off that. Thanks. I have the chart that came with the meter, but it is quite general and also the lowest value on it is a 4.7uf 10V cap. According to the chart the ESR goes from 42 Ohms at 10V to 8.5 at 630V. Downloaded some other charts, thanks for the reminder. They all say the values are very general.
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