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Post by RVspecialist on May 30, 2014 21:01:14 GMT -5
When testing power output at the breakers your DMM should be on AC voltage. But I think you were if you got 80-100 volts when sending power to the 1 wire. I do not see where you are getting the needed 10 VDC at the 1 wire connected to VR pin 3 when cranking. One of those 2 wires connects to the controller and then the starter. Do a diode test from the 1 wire to the starter relay, switching leeds to see if you have flow and then don't.
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Post by RVspecialist on Sept 7, 2013 8:20:08 GMT -5
On your VR, the 3rd contact down there are 2 wires connected to that 1 tab. Remove both of the wire so you can test them separately. Connect the neg probe of your DMM to ground and set it to resistance. 1 of those wires will give you a reading which should be around 16 ohms. Give me that reading. Then set your DMM to DC voltage, attach your pos probe to the other wire you disconnected and crank the engine. While cranking you should get around 8 to 10 volts. What do you get?
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 9, 2013 11:33:41 GMT -5
Yes, that's good. Connect that adapter back on to the voltage regulator but leave the alligator wire still connected. But now connect the other end of the test wire to the positive lead of your DMM. Connect the negative DMM to a good ground on the motor, probably where the ground cable from the battery connects to. Set your DMM to DC volts.
Now watch you DMM while you crank the engine. Depending on how fast the motor starts will determine how much voltage you will read but it should be at least 8 to 12 volts. Once it starts and is no longer cranking it will drop to zero volts. See what you get.
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 6, 2013 11:35:16 GMT -5
At this point I think we should do a fixed excitation test and see what you get.
Hook up your DMM again to the 50 amp outlet like you did in the last test where you got the 5.5 to 6 volts. Now on the voltage regulator find the 3rd wire from the top, it should have 2 wires connected to an adapter and then that adapter is connected to the regulator. Pull the adapter off the regulator leaving both wires connected to it.
Now you need a test wire with alligator clips on both ends. Connect 1 clip to this adapter and leave the other end hang for now.
Start the generator and see if you still have your 5.5 to 6 volts. If you do then while it is running take the other test clip and clip it to the starter solenoid on the battery + terminal. The will send 12v directly to the rotor windings. Now look at your DMM and see what your voltage is. It should be at least 55 volts up to maybe 75 or 80. Once you get the reading remove the test clip and shut it down. Don't leave it run to long connected. Just long enough to get the reading.
Post back what you get.
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 4, 2013 20:06:20 GMT -5
Just below the voltage regulator near the left side there is a small box with 2 wires connected to it. This is a circuit breaker. You need to test it for continuity with your DMM. It should test short, like a fuse does.
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 2, 2013 18:57:18 GMT -5
Get your DMM and connect it to your 50 amp socket, 1 probe in one of the 120 volt lines and the other probe in the neutral. Make sure the breakers are on. Start it up and see if you get around 5 to 10 volts.
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 2, 2013 9:28:50 GMT -5
Where the breakers are there is a cover with 4 screws where the electronics are behind. Remove that cover and mounter on the generator there is an electronic box with a red LED and an adjustment screw. That is the voltage regulator. Start the generator and see if that red LED is on.
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 1, 2013 12:29:58 GMT -5
I use my DMM almost everyday for all kinds of stuff. Even to check batteries in the remotes to see if they need replacement.
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 1, 2013 12:27:17 GMT -5
A friend of mine did a cube kit with an Arduino board but is was much less LEDs then this one. But it was really cool.
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Post by RVspecialist on Aug 1, 2013 12:22:51 GMT -5
Do you have a DMM and know how to use it? Also, is there a transfer switch or just a plug for main power?
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