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Post by tibimakai on Dec 21, 2014 22:43:42 GMT -5
OK, the resistors and the transistor are good. The C124, C125 and C138 are not soldered on the board. The D112 shows shorted both ways, but that is because the relay's coil. The coil, shows 10ohm, which is most likely OK(did not look it up though).
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 21, 2014 14:13:50 GMT -5
Now I understand, what is going on. Masterpower, it would be the power on signal and this signal, doesn't reach the relay to turn it on, right?
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 21, 2014 4:11:21 GMT -5
I have pulled the wire out from the connector, that plugs into the digital board coming from the power supply.
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 19, 2014 22:51:17 GMT -5
At the power supply, there is a Masterpower wire, which seems like the one, you refer as ACRLY. There is only this wire the 5.6V and GND wires at that connector going to the digital board. If this wire is removed, there is no voltage, on or off. I have went back and rechecked the pin #9 and now there is 4.3V. Everything else is the same.
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 17, 2014 12:28:39 GMT -5
Sorry about not giving the results, I was busy with other stuff, yesterday I have sold my ex Onkyo TX-NR515, got a "broken" Creative Aurvana Gold headphone from Ebay, but it turned out, that it's working great.
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 15, 2014 11:47:14 GMT -5
The problem with that is, that it's a tape type ribbon cable, so there are no solid wires in it. I will have to check, if there is a component on the PCB, which I could un-solder instead.
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 14, 2014 19:54:12 GMT -5
Sorry about not getting back sooner, I totally forgot about checking the forum. That harness, is a flat ribbon cable, so I can't cut it.
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 13, 2014 15:51:46 GMT -5
No worries, this is only a hobby(or challange), your life is more important. Power turn on signal, comes from the CPU, right?
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 12, 2014 22:44:48 GMT -5
It seems, like these measurements look OK?
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 10, 2014 4:00:23 GMT -5
Take your time. I kind of gave up, on this receiver anyway. So any help, that I can get, is very much appreciated.
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 8, 2014 22:16:38 GMT -5
OK, here they are:
---OFF---ON 1: 5.58V 5.57V 7: 4.76V 4.74V 8: 0V-----0V 9: 0V ----0V 12:4.84V 4.82V 13:4.79V 4.76V 14:0V ----0V 15:0V ----0V 21:5.02V 5.01V 22:4.21V 4.21V 23:dropping toward 0v 24:0V ----0V 25:3.45V 3.34V 26:0V ----0V 32:4.82V 4.79V 33:4.86V 4.86V 34:4.86V 4.80V 38:0V --+2.08V 39:-2.54V -23.27V(This is DC or AC?)
#23 keeps dropping toward 0V, on or off.
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 8, 2014 21:36:28 GMT -5
Onkyo TX-NR626 it's working great. To me, it seems like these are failing, because the final transistors are not properly tightened. On some, I had to tighten a half a tun(!). Now I need to check those pins on the Pioneer.
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 6, 2014 16:32:15 GMT -5
OK, here it is the picture. I don't see the 34-37 grounds.
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 6, 2014 15:15:18 GMT -5
I'm looking at the board and the schematic and something is not clear to me. It's like, it doesn't match the schematic with the board, or I'm not looking at it right. I'm taking a picture in a few, but my camera battery needs charging first.
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Post by tibimakai on Dec 5, 2014 12:05:13 GMT -5
Somebody helped me on badcapsforum(I'm mostly there). He said that is a 2SA1037. R means hFE 180 and bigger(don't remember the upper limit). How do you find out about these markings?
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