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Post by mastertech on Mar 2, 2015 18:49:39 GMT -5
Do not put that diode back in. It is most likely no good as we have pretty much verified. You can take it out completely if you like.
As far as the fuse, well unless you slip with a test probe you should be ok. Or, if you have a pico or pigtail fuse, or even a car stereo fuse holder with wires, you can solder that in there with a fuse for now.
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Post by justgreg on Mar 2, 2015 20:47:01 GMT -5
You were spot on. The thing powers up and just like I'd read only when installed in-system. The thing won't even pass-through but I'll take it because I still have that TX-NR708 I fixed to handle switching.
I left the diode lifted and soldered in one of the CD-Drive fuses I mentioned earlier. It 'should' be half the rated voltage of the 24v fuse because CD-Drives operate at +12vdc. Not sure of it's current rating though.
Now all I have to do is get my hands on the EDID for a Mitsubishi DLP circa 2008-2009 (any ideas?) and get it into a Gefen HDMI Detective to fully utilize the thing with 3D gaming and cable TV because the 3DS-1000 has an EDID block which actually pops a message up on the screen informing the TV isn't compatible with the adapter. Mitsu came out with the 3DA-1 to cater to legacy Samsung 3D Ready TV's. 3D movies right now are no problem because the Panny BR player handles the checkerboard output.
So...success Mac! Was there ever any doubt? Now to move on to an Insignia smart BR player that powers up for a minute (depending on ambient temp) until the processor gets hot and then it totally locks up. Tray won't even eject. But I'll start another thread for that.
Thank you again for donating your time and for the educational hand holding Mac. See you on the next project!
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Post by mastertech on Mar 2, 2015 21:51:59 GMT -5
Well glad to hear it is working. And your welcome.  |
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rocks
New Member
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Post by rocks on Nov 5, 2017 5:24:59 GMT -5
You were spot on. The thing powers up and just like I'd read only when installed in-system. The thing won't even pass-through but I'll take it because I still have that TX-NR708 I fixed to handle switching. I left the diode lifted and soldered in one of the CD-Drive fuses I mentioned earlier. It 'should' be half the rated voltage of the 24v fuse because CD-Drives operate at +12vdc. Not sure of it's current rating though. Now all I have to do is get my hands on the EDID for a Mitsubishi DLP circa 2008-2009 (any ideas?) and get it into a Gefen HDMI Detective to fully utilize the thing with 3D gaming and cable TV because the 3DS-1000 has an EDID block which actually pops a message up on the screen informing the TV isn't compatible with the adapter. Mitsu came out with the 3DA-1 to cater to legacy Samsung 3D Ready TV's. 3D movies right now are no problem because the Panny BR player handles the checkerboard output. So...success Mac! Was there ever any doubt? Now to move on to an Insignia smart BR player that powers up for a minute (depending on ambient temp) until the processor gets hot and then it totally locks up. Tray won't even eject. But I'll start another thread for that. Thank you again for donating your time and for the educational hand holding Mac. See you on the next project! I know this thread is too old, but I am wondering if you got this 3DA-1000 to work on your HL61A750A? If so, what did you do? I have the same TV.
Thanks
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