Post by justgreg on Feb 24, 2015 16:33:31 GMT -5
Hi Folks
I bought a broken/not working Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 that won't power up. The wall wart is OK and outputs the required voltage. When I opened the device I found the SMD SOT-23 (?) fuse open. The downstream side of the fuse tests out as shorted to ground. I've visually inspected both sides of the board for obvious blow components and performed a quick and simple test of all the non-SMD electrolytic capacitors using a DMM. I have a cap tester but haven't used it yet. I haven't found a single shorted cap so far with the DMM. Please note I just got the 3DC the other day so haven't done every test I can with the few items of test equipment I have at my disposal.
My old digital camera isn't that great at macros but I snapped some pix as close to the power entry section of the board as possible, as well as pix of the back side and any labels and silk screened markings. I haven't been able to find any stories of anyone fixing one of these which is odd given the current price of a replacement 1000 series kit.
Some dry but relevant early 3D history and info:
Odds are against me using this model with my Samsung HL67A750 DLP TV because Mitsubishi released the 3DC-100s after the release of the 3DC-1000 to specifically support Samsung DLP TV's. The 100s is the exact same device as the 1000 but Mitsubishi changed the software of the 1000 kits to prevent them from working with Samsung DLP's....money donchya know. Seeing as Samsung turned their backs on owners of checkerboard output 3D ready sets by not providing any adapters Samsung owners had no choice but to turn to Mitsubishi and pay through the nose for a checkerboard converter.
Panasonic released several models of BluRay players with checkerboard as an output option but that doesn't address the need for a converter for 3D cable/satellite or gaming. I want those capabilities even if I have to buy a Gefen HDMI detective to use with the 3DC-1000 to 'spoof' the TV into thinking it's a Mitsubishi 3D ready checkerboard only set. Given the still very high price of a 3DC-100s 3D kit for Samsung sets (~$300) the Gefen spoof if a viable alternative. The problem with that plan is finding the correct model Mitsubishi EDID and getting it into the Gefen. But...one thing at a time as the saying goes.
Let me know if I can provide additional info. I'd really like to be able to fix this but the first order of business is finding a schematic. Even then I may have to send it to someone with higher level skills and the required test equipment.
I bought a broken/not working Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 that won't power up. The wall wart is OK and outputs the required voltage. When I opened the device I found the SMD SOT-23 (?) fuse open. The downstream side of the fuse tests out as shorted to ground. I've visually inspected both sides of the board for obvious blow components and performed a quick and simple test of all the non-SMD electrolytic capacitors using a DMM. I have a cap tester but haven't used it yet. I haven't found a single shorted cap so far with the DMM. Please note I just got the 3DC the other day so haven't done every test I can with the few items of test equipment I have at my disposal.
My old digital camera isn't that great at macros but I snapped some pix as close to the power entry section of the board as possible, as well as pix of the back side and any labels and silk screened markings. I haven't been able to find any stories of anyone fixing one of these which is odd given the current price of a replacement 1000 series kit.
Some dry but relevant early 3D history and info:
Odds are against me using this model with my Samsung HL67A750 DLP TV because Mitsubishi released the 3DC-100s after the release of the 3DC-1000 to specifically support Samsung DLP TV's. The 100s is the exact same device as the 1000 but Mitsubishi changed the software of the 1000 kits to prevent them from working with Samsung DLP's....money donchya know. Seeing as Samsung turned their backs on owners of checkerboard output 3D ready sets by not providing any adapters Samsung owners had no choice but to turn to Mitsubishi and pay through the nose for a checkerboard converter.
Panasonic released several models of BluRay players with checkerboard as an output option but that doesn't address the need for a converter for 3D cable/satellite or gaming. I want those capabilities even if I have to buy a Gefen HDMI detective to use with the 3DC-1000 to 'spoof' the TV into thinking it's a Mitsubishi 3D ready checkerboard only set. Given the still very high price of a 3DC-100s 3D kit for Samsung sets (~$300) the Gefen spoof if a viable alternative. The problem with that plan is finding the correct model Mitsubishi EDID and getting it into the Gefen. But...one thing at a time as the saying goes.
Let me know if I can provide additional info. I'd really like to be able to fix this but the first order of business is finding a schematic. Even then I may have to send it to someone with higher level skills and the required test equipment.
