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Post by Decibel on Aug 27, 2015 10:59:18 GMT -5
These two resistors are mounted very fragile and break easy, the result is smoking convergence board because dc offset is way off. Had this fault on a controller board ,fix it . Which ones? The resistors of the controller or the board of convergence? |
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Post by Decibel on Aug 27, 2015 11:50:22 GMT -5
However I just found the modify in the partlist of R7631255 (last version of controller I presume). The resistor R50 is not SMD but appear in different description called MF H390E F 0W4 MAN.  |
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Post by dummyload on Aug 28, 2015 2:47:21 GMT -5
I meant R410 & R50 on the controllerboard ,the controller pcb is made for one resistor (at r410,r50) but r410,r50 and c410 have to fit in there. From the photo you have post it seems like the leg from the capacitor broke of from the 2 resistors ? when yes replace r410 and r50. (i do not know you're soldering skills ,but be very careful handling and working on the controllerboard ,this board is expensive so only do it when you're up to the task!!)
This is the only thing i never have seen a fix for on the pcb in later revisions (assuming 780822-E4 is the latest revision) of the board, instead in latest revision they used old school resistors for r410 & r50 (the ones with legs, small types) instead of smd types because they can withstand greater mechanical force.
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Post by Decibel on Aug 28, 2015 9:01:14 GMT -5
I meant R410 & R50 on the controllerboard ,the controller pcb is made for one resistor (at r410,r50) but r410,r50 and c410 have to fit in there. From the photo you have post it seems like the leg from the capacitor broke of from the 2 resistors ? when yes replace r410 and r50. (i do not know you're soldering skills ,but be very careful handling and working on the controllerboard ,this board is expensive so only do it when you're up to the task!!) This is the only thing i never have seen a fix for on the pcb in later revisions (assuming 780822-E4 is the latest revision) of the board, instead in latest revision they used old school resistors for r410 & r50 (the ones with legs, small types) instead of smd types because they can withstand greater mechanical force. In the defective controller in place of the resistor R50 there are two resistors in series. From the point of contact between these two, there is the leg of a big yellow capacitor. The other leg of the capacitor is connected to the capacitor C54. However I did not make that modify and the fact that it is documented modify in the service manual makes me think two things: 1) that this modify was made by the factory. 2) that is not the cause of the defect of the module. |
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Post by dummyload on Aug 28, 2015 9:37:33 GMT -5
Yes it is made by factory , question is the solder joint where r410, r50 and c410 come together stil o.k. it looks broken of.
When it is still firm ,forget what i said.
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Post by Decibel on Aug 28, 2015 12:16:47 GMT -5
Bah ... today I have re-tests the (defective?) controller after resolder the cap C201.
Remember that is a little electrolitic cap that Hulio replaced with smd type in his defective controller.
Pulled congergence board.
No flicker.
But there is a problem with remote.
I can turn on the projector with notebook and barco software.
The fixed remote never worked.
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Post by Decibel on Aug 28, 2015 12:19:22 GMT -5
I bought a convergence board for replace the defective one.
I need a vertical. If someone have to sell with a reasonable price can write in pm. Thanks.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2015 13:03:24 GMT -5
Ah so we get to the remote finally  I happen to know a little now. Does the backlight work? Do you have an external remote? |
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Post by Decibel on Aug 28, 2015 13:27:31 GMT -5
The backlight of the fixed remote never worked. This unit is dead.
Yes I have four remotes.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 28, 2015 16:30:04 GMT -5
Than my advise is to first check Z2 this diode should lower the voltage from 9V to 3V. Also check the wire and the connections.  |
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Post by mastertech on Aug 29, 2015 8:33:55 GMT -5
I have a suspicion: tomorrow I have to check with calm. The desire to solve the problem of the projector is making me commit many silly mistakes. To make the last test I did not cut one of the 7 little wires, but I used a 6-wires connector. Perhaps I have left free the WOK pin of the convergence board but covered the WOK pin of the controller causing totally bad connection between boards. If so, I hope I have not damaged anything. Did you ever determine if this is what happened during this test? Also, when you are using the good controller, did you neutral out all the convergence settings? I know we did on the original one. An extreme setting can cause that resistor to overheat. |
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Post by Decibel on Aug 29, 2015 8:39:14 GMT -5
I did the test ALWAYS with the settings of projector around in midpositions. Only little modifies in settings, ever extreme.
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Post by mastertech on Aug 29, 2015 8:51:19 GMT -5
I did the test ALWAYS with the settings of projector around in midpositions. Only little modifies in settings, ever extreme. Ok, just checking to see if you neutraled the second controller also. How about that wire test question? |
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Post by mastertech on Aug 29, 2015 9:17:38 GMT -5
And, did you ever test the value of the overheated R52?
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Post by Decibel on Aug 29, 2015 10:14:01 GMT -5
For now I want to stop other tests. I bought a convergence board, newer version. When the board will be here I will replace the defective one.
After found that is an older version, I would replaced even if it's good.
Then I will test both controller and choice what will be OK for the projector.
At the end I must try to repair the vertical board if not found a cheap spare.
I'm convinced that the erratic connection of neckboards of the blue and green tubes (bent pins), because of the my stupid hurry, could have damaged a lot of things.
For now I want to touch the projector only for solve the mistery of dead of the fixed remote.
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I happen to know a little now.
