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Post by mastertech on Aug 29, 2013 8:59:09 GMT -5
Well I assume when you say short you now mean a reading of around 0.00? I don't think there is a bottom cover so it looks like your going to have to remove that bottom board to be able to unsolder and remove those transistors. After you get them out you will have to test some more surrounding components to see if anything else was damaged. I'll give you the id location numbers when you get to that point.
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Post by Michael on Aug 29, 2013 17:50:03 GMT -5
Lol! Correct! I am sure that they are shorted! I have a 0.000 reading on diode scale. Sorry, I did not get to it today but I will remove the board tomorrow and will unsolder the transistors. Once I did that, I will post back to continue...
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Post by Michael on Aug 30, 2013 10:54:02 GMT -5
Is there an easy way to remove this board or it is as painful as I see it??
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Post by Michael on Aug 30, 2013 11:06:54 GMT -5
Finally... Q22C and Q22A removed. Should I remove the Q19A as well?
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Post by mastertech on Aug 30, 2013 11:13:58 GMT -5
If none of the legs are shorted to each other on Q19A then I would leave it for now. But you are going to have to test some more parts connected with Q22C and Q22C. Did you restest Q22C and A after you removed them to see if they still show short?
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Post by mastertech on Aug 30, 2013 11:40:23 GMT -5
I have to run out for a few hours again so I'm going to give you the list of things you need to test. These should all be in the area of Q22C and A.
Transistors: (DMM on diode scale looking for shorts) Q2, Q11, Q12 and Q23.
Diodes: (DMM on diode scale looking for flow only 1 direction) D5 and D9
Resistors: (DMM on resistance scale looking for close value) R72= .22 ohms. Should show close to zero (short) on all 3 pins. R98= 10 ohms R43= 100 ohms If you get funny readings on any of these then you will have to lift 1 leg (diode or resistor) or remove (transistor) and recheck.
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Post by Michael on Aug 30, 2013 11:47:02 GMT -5
Yes. They do show that they are shorted (0.000) after they were removed. Q19A shows 0.854 and 0.557 for 1-2 and 1-3. 2-3 shows OL. Tested the holes on the board, it shows OL for all of them. Around the holes are a little discolored; like blackish burned color .
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Post by Michael on Aug 30, 2013 12:30:27 GMT -5
Here is what I have; Q2, Q11, Q12 and Q23 are fine and the show values. D5 and D9 show flow in only one direction. R72 = 0.00 to 0.4 ohms on the legs. At the first touch it's a little higher and slowly reduces to close to 0.00. R98 = starts at 5 and then slowly goes to 0.00. R43 = 99.5 Ohms.
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Post by mastertech on Aug 30, 2013 14:21:12 GMT -5
Well as of now we can assume it just blew the outputs and the problem with the power on section. How hard was it to remove the main board?
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Post by Michael Jani on Aug 30, 2013 15:36:27 GMT -5
I had to disconnect couple of harnesses. Not as bad as it looked!! What do you think about the reading I get on R98 ?
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Post by mastertech on Aug 30, 2013 15:48:39 GMT -5
That reading is probably fine. We were looking more so to make sure it was not blown open.
What I would like to do next before we start testing that S12v section is put that amp board back in without Q22C and A and do the light bulb test again and see if we get a normal test. And then leave that board in while we test out the other problems until we get a complete, to the best we can, parts list for you to order or pick up.
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Post by Michael on Aug 30, 2013 15:59:44 GMT -5
The light does not com on at all (with or without red and blue connected).
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Post by mastertech on Aug 30, 2013 16:02:50 GMT -5
Does it come on for a second or 2 and then go out or nothing at all?
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Post by Michael on Aug 30, 2013 16:06:44 GMT -5
Nothing at all.
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Post by mastertech on Aug 30, 2013 16:09:26 GMT -5
Alright, let's continue for now. I want you to solder that regulator back in the regulator board and put it back in the receiver. Solder in the 1 harness to it but do not connect the other harness that is not a solder type. Then recheck with you light bulb test.
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