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Post by jeremy on Aug 5, 2015 18:39:33 GMT -5
As the title says, I need to get behind the projection screen on a Samsung HL-T5076S 50" Slim DLP TV. Its dim and when peeking through the back where theres a small round cover that pops off, I can see why its so dim (dirty as hell). I've got it somewhat disassembled but am unsure how to get the front screen completely off the TV (its not as easy as the old CRT RPTVs!)
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Post by mastertech on Aug 5, 2015 21:48:21 GMT -5
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Post by jeremy on Aug 7, 2015 16:33:37 GMT -5
Thanks MT, I did figure out how the front comes off, there were 3 hidden screws behind all the electronics. Just need to clean the front inside of the screen and it should be good to go. The optical path was just horrible, the mirrors didn't even reflect, so not a wonder it had a barely visible image  |
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Post by jeremy on Aug 9, 2015 12:28:51 GMT -5
MT, was wondering if I threw a 180w lamp in this thing if it would make it brighter? It uses a 132w from factory, but the ballast is a standard Epson ballast for 200w lamps so it shooouldn't hurt it...would it? I just think the image could use a little more "pop", otherwise its night and day already
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Post by mastertech on Aug 9, 2015 20:37:40 GMT -5
Well I would agree that the ballast should not have a problem with the higher wattage lamp. But I would be more concerned of the extra heat. The system is designed to control the heat of a 132 watt lamp. It may not be able to handle the heat of the 180 watt lamp. You could probably experiment with a thermometer at the heat exhaust duct and see what the variation is. That is providing it does stay running with the larger lamp. The lamp temp sensor may have a setting that may be below the running temp of the 180 watt lamp and it could go into thermal shutdown. I would be curious of your findings if you attempt it. |
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Post by jeremy on Aug 10, 2015 16:36:30 GMT -5
Well I would agree that the ballast should not have a problem with the higher wattage lamp. But I would be more concerned of the extra heat. The system is designed to control the heat of a 132 watt lamp. It may not be able to handle the heat of the 180 watt lamp. You could probably experiment with a thermometer at the heat exhaust duct and see what the variation is. That is providing it does stay running with the larger lamp. The lamp temp sensor may have a setting that may be below the running temp of the 180 watt lamp and it could go into thermal shutdown. I would be curious of your findings if you attempt it. Well I did try it, and I can't say it was any brighter, though to be fair the lamp was extremely used (looked like it had less than 100hrs left of life at best) so its probably as bright as the 132w that was installed. I did notice one thing (and this could be due to the fact the lamp was an OSRAM and it originally comes with a Philips) but with the 180w osram, the right side of the image went somewhat out of focus, the left was fine. When I threw the 132w Philips back in it looked crispy sharp again. Also as far as temps went, by "feel" the 180w seemed to exhaust as warm as the 132w, but again, the 180w was likely on its way out.
I did notice in the service menu, you can change the lamp brand from Philips to OSRAM or even USHIO (interesting to say the least!). I did change that setting while the Philips lamp was installed and when I set it to 'OSRAM' the Philips lamp started pulsing. When I set it to 'USHIO' it looked like it did when set on Philips.
I'll buy a new lamp (going for at least 165w or more) and see how it works with the new one.
Oh, maybe you know this MT, is there a way to SAVE the settings in the service menu? I found some tweaks to enhance the brightness which did considerably help, but when I turned the set off and back on it was back to where it was at...
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Post by jeremy on Aug 13, 2015 7:41:18 GMT -5
MT, I was wondering if you have the schematic for the SMPS of this TV? The hour counter on the TV is at over 20,000+ on the set & lamps that were installed in it, and I'm betting the power supply is having a couple issues (since the picture seems to fluctuate in brightness on any lamp I install in it, new or used) and I'll bet is due to the PSU being worn out.
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Post by mastertech on Aug 18, 2015 0:41:51 GMT -5
Sorry Jeremy, I must of missed this post. See if this schematic matches your supply. samsung hlt5075s PS.pdf (170.01 KB) |
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