nashou
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Post by nashou on Feb 3, 2016 23:05:55 GMT -5
New project !!! Theses were on Craigslist and I looked them up and found out they are highly regarded speakers. Transmission Line types, and from what I read IMF was on top for that type of speaker design. So I went to see them today and the guy selling them is one of my customers !!!! So we talked and he is into audio too but not into repairs, One of the drivers wasn't working And I have seen these go for 800 pounds on eBay UK. SO I offered him 300 and he said are you sure they are worth that much to you? lol I'm like umm ok 250 , and he said ok deal. LOL nice kid but take the money and run. I confirmed the driver is dead. Hopefully its just a disconnected voice coil. I should be able to repair it if its that. if not a guy on Audiokarma forum has one. This is going to be a fun project!!! Here is the AudioKarma thread where a member there restored a similar pair audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/imf-monitor-tls-80.402419/
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Feb 4, 2016 0:45:00 GMT -5
So here is the voice coil repair. I used some magnet wire similar in gauge to the original voice coil size. Because the cone is attached I could not get in the tight space to try to connect the voice coil to the connector braided wire. So i fed the new magnet wire through the slit in the voice coil bobbin and then back through the two holes in the robin to go the respective ends of the original voice coil. I now have continuity and a 5.9ohm speaker. If this causes issue I will try to find something closer to the original to make the ohms equal as can be. here are some pics of the process. First I soldered the new wire to the voice coil. Then I fed it through one of the openings in the voice coil. Then through the split in the bobbin Then through the rubber grommet on the connector plate And the reading
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Post by barclay66 on Feb 4, 2016 5:46:34 GMT -5
You mean, just like Data did?
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Feb 4, 2016 14:55:03 GMT -5
I also need to clean out the voice coil magnet guide or chamber or what ever its called there is a lot of corrosion in the form of crystals rubbing on the coil wires. I think the entire coil might need to be coated with the nail polish or sprayed with a light coat of clear enamel.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Feb 4, 2016 23:08:41 GMT -5
well I rewired the voice coil differently than above. I decided that the wire inside the bobbin might hit the magnet when moving. So i did as they were before. I just hope that it holds up. I was going to use three wires braided but will use this one for now.
I uses Aleens glue to repair some loose spots on the bobbin to diaphragm . Then I used Testers clear lacquer spray to insulate the bare wire and also over the entire coil for added protection.
I hooked it up to my LCR meter that also has 120z 1khz and 100 hz test tones and the 1 kHz tone played perfectly. So this speaker is brought back from the dead.
Next I will instal the woofer into the cab and test it with music.
Nashou
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Post by gjaky on Feb 5, 2016 16:24:42 GMT -5
Solid wire for a woofer's voice coil inlet is no go, sorry. It won't last long. The original inlet cables usualy copper braid upon silk filaments to preserve flexibility. I'd suggest to grab some cheap speaker and cannibalize this lead.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Feb 5, 2016 17:43:52 GMT -5
Solid wire for a woofer's voice coil inlet is no go, sorry. It won't last long. The original inlet cables usualy copper braid upon silk filaments to preserve flexibility. I'd suggest to grab some cheap speaker and cannibalize this lead. I was thinking the same thing. Its just what I had laying around at the time. I plan on taking the other driver apart too and make sure there isn't any of that crystalline growth in the voice coil chamber. The rebuilt speaker pushes in with pure silence while the one that was working has some slight scratching going on. I think these were stored in a damp garage for many years. But now that I know i can rebuild these I'm not too worried about going in again to do it right. I think I might actually use the original in there and the new wire will connect to it . I used that magnet wire because it has to be thin to drop down between the bobbin and the spider mesh. I don't want to take the rubber surround off to have easier access tot he braid wire where it comes into contact with the voice coil. to difficult to try to reach a solder iron in-between the basket frame and woofer cone which is styrofoam. Touching that with a hot iron will melt it instantly and even getting close would be risky. Nashou
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Post by gjaky on Feb 5, 2016 17:50:08 GMT -5
It migh sound strange, but with a sharp (and hot) soldering tip you can burn a small hole on the spider close to the bobbin, without causing severve damage to the woofer, just so that you can feed through a braid wire. After that you can fix the cable with a drop of silicone glue (RTV). I believe that woofer is actualy a KEF B139 by the way.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Feb 5, 2016 18:34:01 GMT -5
It migh sound strange, but with a sharp (and hot) soldering tip you can burn a small hole on the spider close to the bobbin, without causing severve damage to the woofer, just so that you can feed through a braid wire. After that you can fix the cable with a drop of silicone glue (RTV). I believe that woofer is actualy a KEF B139 by the way. Yes it is a Kef B139. Is there a rebuild kit for it anywhere? It be cool if there was. Just the voice coil and spider would be great. Nashou
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Post by gjaky on Feb 5, 2016 18:41:06 GMT -5
Speaker repairing is a tough task. Here in Hungary there are several guy who is specialized on speaker repairs, and they can do all kinds of stuff. Replacing the spider and the voicecoil is about the hardest thing one can imagine in a speaker repair, definitely not an easy do at home project... Wouldn't be easier to find another used speaker instead, I see ebay has them.
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Feb 5, 2016 19:12:02 GMT -5
Speaker repairing is a tough task. Here in Hungary there are several guy who is specialized on speaker repairs, and they can do all kinds of stuff. Replacing the spider and the voicecoil is about the hardest thing one can imagine in a speaker repair, definitely not an easy do at home project... Wouldn't be easier to find another used speaker instead, I see ebay has them. I see all the bay ones are 4 ohm. For the IMF TLS 80's they used 8 ohm versions. Not sure I want to take a chance or rework anything else. I'll just get some braided tinsel wire. A few vendors on eBay or I might use Solder Braid Wick. I have a few sizes. PS: Wish I would have thought of the solder braid earlier , i have one that is very flexible. Nashou
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Mar 16, 2016 21:24:15 GMT -5
So I got back to these a couple weeks ago in between working on the Yamaha A-1 amp in another thread. There are some more speaker issues, the Celestion HF-1300 was fried or just massively corroded . A new/used tweeter would cost me 76 euros. Non here state side. Also the HF2000 super tweeters where shot. So I found on ebay a seller from france with just the voice coils for the HF-1300, and the voice coil diaphragm assembly for the HF 2000's. Much cheaper this way. On the HF-1300 I had to put the voice coil onto the existing diaphragm . I did not get it centered exactly so I had to do some altercations of the cardboard shims and the diaphragm itself. But in the end I got it to work Here are some pics. Dismantled Using the speaker housing and a holder to make a stable base for adhering the voice coilRemoved the red lead wire and desoldered the main wires off the solder rivets.Feeding the lead wire through the hole in the diaphragm.Lead wire glued to diaphragm with Aleen's craft glue.Reattached main wires soldered in place. You can see i had to remove a little bit of the diaphragm at the centering nub's to align it with no rubbing of the voice coil.Athanasios
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Apr 5, 2016 12:34:08 GMT -5
Well began the HF-2000 super tweeter restoration. I wasn't sure how to approach this.....so I just dove in ! Here is the way it looks after you peel the tweeter off. you have to work from the front because there is a wood box built around the tweeter and its glued in. To remove the box would definitely damage it and the main baffle . I used an X-acto knife and some sand paper to remove the double sided tape or glue they used. Now onto the voice coil-diaphragm assembly . There was glue on this hard cardboard holder that the plastic coil assembly was attached to. I used a toothbrush and denatured alcohol and X-Acto knife to rub and scrape away most of it. Then I used a wire bobbin to act as a "Jig" to hold the cardboard holder and coil assembly up off the table( so as not to crush it) and in place while I applied Aleen's glue and allowed it to dry. Electrical clips were used to hold it all in place . This will be illustrated in the following pictures. Thats all for now. Off to work. Athanasios
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nashou
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Post by nashou on Apr 5, 2016 22:27:53 GMT -5
The Glue didn't hold so double sided Duck Tape is next.
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jaapp
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Post by jaapp on Apr 21, 2018 18:50:34 GMT -5
Hi Nashou, Great work how you restored your TLS 80! I am currently also restoring a pair of TLS80-2, they are a mess. Previous owner toasted the HF1300 tweeter and wired the supertweeter as tweeter instead! I was wondering if it's correct that the HF1300 is 4 ohms. I noticed there are 2 versions of this driver. 8 and 4 ohms seems the rest of the drivers are all 8 ohms... Kind regard, Jaap
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