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Post by thespianator on Nov 9, 2016 16:10:41 GMT -5
Greetings! I picked up a free Hafler DH-200 that was built from a kit. The giver told me it had fried one of his speakers, so before testing I checked the DC offset and found that it was 20mV on one channel and -55 Volts on the other! I thought this meant there was a fried MOSFET output transistor (Unobtainium), but I pulled each of the 4 outputs and tested for a short between the pins. No short, so I figure they must be OK. I'm in the process of getting some reasonably closely matched 2N5550 and 2N5401, but need to be sure that these don't blow out if the -55V is caused by something else. I've tested the electrolytic caps in circuit with my ESR meter, and nothing comes out as out of spec. I put the correct rating slo-blo fuses in both channel mains and when turning it on, they don't blow out. I'm presuming this means that the outputs are not shorted. There's a small daughter board that hangs next to the PC-6 amp board, btw, and the caps read OK. Is there a particular pre-driver that is blown? I plan to re-cap this once I get the DC-offset figured out. There's no pot for DC-offset on this one as there is on the DH-220. One would just set the bias and the DC offset "should" be in range. I'm at a little loss on where to proceed from here, and these are good little amps. Could anyone provide a little guidance? My pile of gear that I am stuck somewhere on fixing is large enough! and I would like to get this one working. Thanks for any help! Hafler PC-6 Schematic.pdf (384.37 KB)
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Post by barclay66 on Nov 10, 2016 8:40:51 GMT -5
Hi,
Check D14 and Q13 for shorts. They could be involved as well. Check fuse F4. Disconnect the power MOSFET section altogether (Connection points 4, 5, 7, 9, 10, 13) and measure the voltages at connection points 5 and 10 (measurement against ground plane). Without input signal they should be almost identical, just with different polarity.
Regards, barclay66
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Post by thespianator on Nov 11, 2016 17:55:44 GMT -5
Thanks Barclay 66!
I checked D14 (1N4003) and Q13 (2N5415) in circuit, didn't appear to be blown. The 2N5415 appears to be NLA. Just for grins, I checked the bias and it was approximately 115 volts. Turning the pot had no effect. Does that help at all to narrow this down?
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Post by mastertech on Nov 12, 2016 11:38:35 GMT -5
There is really no specific place in that schematic to point to. It could be any of almost 75 percent of the parts pictured. You just have to keep testing parts until you find the bad ones.
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Post by mastertech on Nov 12, 2016 22:24:30 GMT -5
Where are you testing that you are getting the -55v dc?
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Post by thespianator on Nov 23, 2016 11:22:00 GMT -5
I was checking the DC offset. Got the amp free and was told it fried a speaker. I guess I could pull both amp boards and check the bad one against the good one with just a DMM?
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nashou
Unmoderated Off Topic
Tech in Training.....
Posts: 1,239
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Post by nashou on Nov 23, 2016 11:45:05 GMT -5
What mac is asking is where your measuring the DC offset? At the speaker outs or somewhere else?
Nashou
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Post by thespianator on Nov 23, 2016 21:35:33 GMT -5
Ah! Thanks for the clarification. I tested at the speaker outs.
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